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Tina Bicat - Costume and Design for Devised and Physical Theatre

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Tina Bicat Costume and Design for Devised and Physical Theatre
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Costumes designed and made for devised or physical drama, for contemporary circus or for dance, differ radically from the more traditional costume work produced for naturalistic performance. For those working in the field - whether professional or student - these differences present challenges that this book seeks to highlight and explain while offering effective solutions to overcome them. Includes: the differences between designing for scripted and for devised work; the specialized designing, cutting and making, and fitting of costumes for dance, circus and other physical work; the role of the designer/maker in the devising company; design invention in the rehearsal room; the management of both time and budget with the late changes that happen with devised work; the breadth of different skills used in the work for performance.

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First published in 2012 by The Crowood Press Ltd Ramsbury Marlborough - photo 1

First published in 2012 by
The Crowood Press Ltd,
Ramsbury, Marlborough,
Wiltshire, SN8 2HR

www.crowood.com

This e-book edition first published in 2012

Tina Bict 2012

All rights reserved. This e-book is copyright material and must not be copied, reproduced, transferred, distributed, leased, licensed or publicly performed or used in any way except as specifically permitted in writing by the publishers, as allowed under the terms and conditions under which it was purchased or as strictly permitted by applicable copyright law. Any unauthorised distribution or use of this text may be a direct infringement of the authors and publishers rights, and those responsible may be liable in law accordingly.

ISBN 978 1 84797 449 5

Front cover: Ockhams Razor in Memento Mori. (Photo: Nik Mackey)
Frontispiece: RedCape Theatre in 1, Beach Road. (Photo: Nik Mackey)

Acknowledgements

Thanks to the companies who have let me use photographs of their productions: Chris Baldwin Theatre, Bicat Co., Jonathan Lunn Dance Company, Lost Banditos, NIE, Ockhams Razor, Punchdrunk, RedCape Theatre, St Marys University College at Strawberry Hill, Theatre-Rites, Turtle Key Arts. And to Chris Baldwin, Patrick Baldwin, Lisette Barlow, Sophie Bellin, Kate Bict, Nick Bict, Tony Bict, Alex Byrne, Lionel Caujolle, Meline Danielevitz, Stefano Di Renzo, Maxine Doyle, Stuart Glover, Christophe Grenier, Mark Griffin, Alex Harvey, Marion Huard, Christine Jarvis, Ali King, Tina Koch, Christine Lee, Nik Mackey, Alexander McDonnell, Polly McDonnell, Alistair Milne, Charlotte Mooney, Sabina Netherclift, Gemma Palomar Delgardo, Ann-Noelle and David Pinnegar at Hammerwood Park, Kate Rigby, Anami Schrijvers, Paul Stowe, Kasper Svenstrup Hansen, Kim Swaden-Ward, Trevor Walker, Kasia Zeremba Byrne and all the people with whom I work, and who have answered my questions. Photos and drawings are by the author unless otherwise stated.

He and she are used indiscriminately in this book because, of course, everyone in this job does everything they can.

For Jessie and Felix Caujolle and Daisy and Tom McDonnell, with my love.

Contents
Theatre-Rites and Ockhams Razor in Hang On Photo Patrick Baldwin 1 The - photo 2

Theatre-Rites and Ockhams Razor in Hang On. (Photo: Patrick Baldwin)

1 The World of Devised
and Physical Theatre
A set that suggests a world and leaves room for actors and objects to invent - photo 3

A set that suggests a world and leaves room for actors and objects to invent. (Photo: Kasia Zeremba Byrne)

Doing the Splits in Tight Trousers

Theres a difficult meeting point when performers, who perhaps are somersaulting six metres above the stage, want to play everyday people. They need to play recognizable characters and tell real stories while performing dangerous feats which no ordinary human could manage in skin-tight lycra, let alone in a suit and tie which might flap and catch, come untucked and rip.

How can a dancer perform an arabesque in a Victorian skirt that appears to weigh several kilos? How can you do a back flip in a hooded jacket without the hood falling over your face and blinding you for the all-important landing? What happens to the librarians specs when she is flying on the end of a rope, or walking on her hands in her dream of a more exciting life? What happens to the fairys wings in the rain?

Photo Nik Mackey Photo Nik Mackey Photo Alex Byrne Costumes are - photo 4

(Photo: Nik Mackey)

Photo Nik Mackey Photo Alex Byrne Costumes are not solely for actors to - photo 5

(Photo: Nik Mackey)

Photo Alex Byrne Costumes are not solely for actors to wear sometimes they - photo 6

(Photo: Alex Byrne)

Costumes are not solely for actors to wear; sometimes they can become an integral part of the set.

Photo Alex Byrne Photo Lisette Barlow Photo Lisette Barlow These - photo 7

(Photo: Alex Byrne)

Photo Lisette Barlow Photo Lisette Barlow These and hundreds of other - photo 8

(Photo: Lisette Barlow)

Photo Lisette Barlow These and hundreds of other problems present - photo 9

(Photo: Lisette Barlow)

These, and hundreds of other problems, present themselves during the design and making process of any production that calls for unusual movement or circumstance . Many of them are not apparent before rehearsals start because most of this sort of work is created through the devising process in the rehearsal room. But it is a great help to be prepared, and to invent designs that are sympathetic to the physical needs of the performer.

It is easy to forget, in the busy and engrossing work of making theatre, how much work the audience does in interpreting what they see and hear. They can be made up of theatrically experienced people and those who have never been to a performance before. We may put our ideas on the stage for them to see, but they interpret them each in their own particular way using their own particular experience and interest. Our ideas, which seem so solid and important to us as we turn them into words and music, sights and sounds, are only suggestions, and we have to trust the audience to enlarge them into reality.

The Setting and the Light

The setting in which the performers play their parts is the first thing that the audience sees, and helps their understanding of, and involvement in, the show. It gives people confidence that their interpretation is on the right lines, or tells them if they can allow their mind to create a more abstract world. The set is the frame and the context for the costume designers work. Physical theatre tends to make the most of any available stage space for the movement of the actors. The setting has to allow for this, which can mean that there is not much room for the actual set, and the costume and objects or props have to work together with the lighting to do the sets job. The performers and the lighting designer are the people who give it life.

Without light the world that the designer makes for the performers and the audience is lifeless. In a controlled theatre space, where the light of any mood and place can be created, the audiences attention is focused directly on the action. In the open air in the daytime the designer has to design for Gods lighting, which is less reliable though often no less theatrical. The first consideration will be the quality of the natural light. This depends on the country, the time of day, and where the sun is in the sky at the time of the performance. In some parts of the world this is reliable for example July in the South of France is usually flooded with light. Northern climates can be more problematic, however, and colour has to be clear enough to show up in a grey, soft light if nature does not choose to give you the light you hope for when you want it.

Collaborative Company Design
RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT

Rehearsals for a devised performance are not the same as those for a performance that is script led. It is quite usual for this rehearsal period to be a research and development (R & D) time. This means that the end result of this particular period will be either a short, rudimentary performance, possibly to attract future funding, or a springboard to the discussions and development of the finished work. These sessions are invaluable to the designer. The cast may not be the final choice for the performance, and much of the content will be unformed and experimental. But the style the company will work in, the atmosphere they hope to create on stage, and the reality or otherwise of the world they are inventing, will be clear.

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