Mike Hamill - Climbing the Seven Summits: A Comprehensive Guide to the Continents Highest Peaks

A COMPREHENSIVE GUIDE TO THE
CONTINENTS HIGHEST PEAKS

MIKE HAMILL

FOREWORD BY PHIL ERSHLER

Topping out on the fixed lines below Camp 2 on Vinson Massif

For my family; especially my sister, Kelley, with whom I shared
many climbing and cycling adventures in our youth.

THE MOUNTAINEERS BOOKS
is the nonprofit publishing arm of The Mountaineers, an organization founded in 1906 and dedicated to the exploration, preservation, and enjoyment of outdoor and wilderness areas.

1001 SW Klickitat Way, Suite 201, Seattle, WA 98134

2012 by Mike Hamill
All rights reserved. First edition, 2012.

No part of this book may be reproduced in any form, or by any electronic,
mechanical, or other means, without permission in writing from the publisher.

Distributed in the United Kingdom by Cordee, www.cordee.co.uk
Manufactured in China

Copy Editor: Kris Fulsaas
Design and Layout: Heidi Smets, heidismets.com
Cartographer: Pease Press Cartography
All photos by author unless credited otherwise
Cover photograph: Descending from Denali Pass above high camp; Mount Foraker in background. (Photo by Mike Hamill)

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Hamill, Mike.
Climbing the seven summits : a comprehensive guide to the continents highest peaks / by Mike Hamill. 1st ed.
p. cm.
Includes bibliographical references and index.
ISBN 978-1-59485-648-8 (pbk. : alk. paper) ISBN 978-1-59485-649-5 (ebook : alk. paper)
1. Mountaineering. 2. Mountains. 3. Continents. I. Title.
GV200.H36 2012
796.522dc23
2011043486

ISBN (paperback): 978-1-59485-648-8
ISBN (e-book): 978-1-59485-649-5

Early in my guiding career, I had the good fortune to become involved with two unique individuals who had not only the imagination to dream but the strength, tenacityand resourcesto do what was necessary to convert their dreams into reality. Frank Wells reached the top of six of the Seven Summits, and in 1985 Dick Bass became the first person to climb all of the Seven Summits: the highest peak on each of the worlds seven continents. Records are made to be broken, but a first is forever; Dick will always be known as the first man to climb the Seven Summits.

I followed in their footsteps and, in 1989, also completed the Seven Summits. My wife, Susan, even talked me into doing them a second time, with her. We walked those final few feet up the Southeast Ridge of Mount Everest in May 2002 and became the first couple to complete the Seven Summits together. It also appears that, with that summitting of Everest, I became the first person crazy enough to complete the Seven Summits twice.

Dick and Frank led the way, and now many more have followed. This is the true and lasting legacy of their accomplishment: they lit a fire under many of us to get out, challenge ourselves, and explore our mountain world.

Frankly, climbing the Seven Summits is not the most difficult of mountaineering accomplishments. It is, however, a great excuse to go out and see the world. Each summit is unique: the climb itself, the country in which its located, and the cultures encountered on the journey. Whether they climb one or all Seven Summits, countless experienced and not so experienced mountaineers owe Dick and Frank a sincere thank you for helping show the way.

Mike Hamills new guidebook, Climbing the Seven Summits, will further inspire climbers and help keep the dream alive. Few people would have been capable of writing this book. As an owner of International Mountain Guides, Ive worked with Mike for more than a decade. Mike is not only an accomplished climber in his own right but also an accomplished guide. And theres a huge difference. As a guide, Mike knows the ins and outs, the fine points, and all the tricks. He knows what works and what doesnt. Hes seen it all. As my wife, Susan, always says when speaking to corporate audiences, Expert resources can shave years off your learning curve. I guess thats what we all want in a guidebookinspiration and information.

Mike has lapped the original Seven Summits four times now. He has taken fifteen years worth of collective information and wisdom about the Seven Summits and put it in a very usable form. Maps, photos, route descriptions, equipment lists, fun facts, and guides tips are all included. And I wouldnt be surprised if Mike would say that putting all hes learned about the Seven Summits in this book was harder than the actual climbing itself.

Of greatest interest to an old guide like me are the contributions Mike has solicited from many well-known climbers who have unique perspectives and stories regarding the different peaks that make up the Seven Summits. Think about it: any of these summits is really just a big pile of rock, snow, and icealbeit very attractive ones. They dont really come to life, however, until you add that personal element, the people with whom you share any of these experiences.

Reading Climbing the Seven Summits is a great first step and valuable tool as you begin your quest to climb any or all of the Seven Summits. The information herein serves as a strong foundation. Glean as much as possible from Mikes real-life research and then train, learn, and acquire the experience and judgment you need to go out and create your own Seven Summits memories.

Phil Ershler

Everest climbers acclimatize on Lobuche while clouds blanket the Khumbu Valley below.

There is surprisingly little literature available on the Seven Summits. There are a number of books on the individual mountains but, aside from Seven Summits, the classic account of pioneers Dick Bass and Frank Wells, there are few about the Seven Summits as a whole. Yet interest in climbing the Seven Summits has skyrocketed in recent years, due to an increase in the popularity of climbing and the ease of international travel. I set out to capture this excitement in one book and help climbers achieve their goal of climbing the Seven Summits.

This book provides the foundation to safely climb the Seven Summits. It can be used for each climb separately or for the Seven Summits as a cumulative goal. The chapters in incomplete without these colorful stories that bring the mountains to life.

This reference is also practical. Its light and sturdy enough to toss in a pack. What good is a Seven Summits reference that you cant bring with you on the climbs? And since it covers all of the Seven Summits, you can use it as a single volume reference for all the mountains.

This guide can be used by novices attempting their first expedition as well as experienced climbers and guides who are new to these peaks. It details climb preparations, route information, and effective climbing techniques, among other topics, to take the less experienced from the beginning to the end of the climb. Experienced climbers will find useful knowledge specific to the climbs, from route descriptions to discussions on climbing techniques and guide tips.