Ben Westwood - Moon Machu Picchu: Including Cusco & the Inca Trail

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Ben Westwood

At 4am, the guide rapped on the side of my tent. After three days of trekking through the Andes, I needed a little more sleep, but we were determined to get there before dawn. After a moderate two-hour hike, dawn approached with the mist stubbornly clinging to the hills. My heart sankshrouds of water vapor were hiding one of the wonders of the world; this was not in the script. But perhaps the Inca gods were smiling on us after all; in minutes the mist lifted to reveal the spellbinding sight of perfect stonework backed by the towering mountain of Huayna Picchu. The hair stood up on the back of my neck. We had found Machu Picchu, the lost city of the Incas. It was ours to explore for one unforgettable day.

Machu Picchu is the culmination of a once-in-a-lifetime pilgrimage. It begins in the relatively comfortable lower elevations of the Sacred Valley, where quiet Inca communities offer access to the ruins of Pisac and Ollantaytambo, and continues along one of the three major Inca Trails. Each offers a different experience, from the adrenaline-filled adventure of the jungle to the sublime mountain scenery of Salcantay. And then there is the beautiful, schizophrenic city of Cusco, where the Incan and colonial cultures live in a fascinating fusion, resulting in an abundance of attractions.

Whether experienced over weeks or just a matter of days, this Peruvian region packs more punch than a pisco sour. Where else in the world can you experience a timeless but still thriving culture, and the center of a lost empire, the jewel in South Americas crown?

Leave the giddy heights of Cusco behind and head to the Sacred Valley, which the Inca considered paradise for its fertile earth. This charming valley has a great range of lodging, restaurants, and adventure sports, making an ideal base for acclimatizing. The temples, fortresses, and terracing of Pisac and Ollantaytambo are second only to Machu Picchu in terms of beauty. Dont miss the concentric circles of Moray and the shimmering spectacle of the salt mines of Salineras.

Follow the rushing Ro Urubamba down toward the cloud forests that surround the Incas most fabled achievement: Machu Picchu. The famous lost city is a stunning example of a citadel built in perfect harmony with nature. Stay overnight nearby before and after your visit to maximize your time or, even better, hike either the Salcantay route, Inca Jungle Trail, or the original Inca Trail, a paved stone highway that culminates in a birds-eye view of the ruins.

After visiting the Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu, travelers are acclimatized to Cuscos high altitude. They are also primed for Cuscos complex culture, which remains today an antagonistic mixture of Inca and Spanish cultures. The Spanish erected more than a dozen baroque churches atop flawless Inca walls. Cusco must-visits are the artisan barrio of San Blas, the Inca sun temple Coricancha, and the fortress of Sacsayhuamn overlooking the city.

Pisac, Sacred Valley

The train ride from the Sacred Valley to Machu Picchu takes in stunning scenery.	Inca alleyway in Cusco

The traditional time to visit Peru is in the South American winter, June-August, when dry, sunny weather opens up over the Andes. Because Perus dry months coincide perfectly with summer vacation in North America and Europe, this is also when most travelers visit Peru. Prices for lodging tend to go up during these months, and Machu Picchu can be crowded. Especially crowded times are Inti Raymi, the June 24 sun festival in Cusco, and Fiestas Patrias, the national Peruvian holiday at the end of July.

The bulk of the rainy season is December-April, when trekking and other outdoor activities are hampered by muddy paths and soggy skies. The Inca Trail is closed in February. To avoid crowds, travel in the shoulder months between rainy season and high season. April, May, September, October, and even November are excellent times to visit Peru. The weather is usually fine, and prices for lodging tend to be lower.

Citizens of the United States, Canada, United Kingdom, South Africa, New Zealand, and Australia and residents of any other European or Latin American country do not require visas to enter Peru as tourists at the present time. Departure taxes for international flights and domestic flights are now usually included in the ticket price. When entering the country, you can get anything from 30 to 180 days stamped into both a passport and an embarkation card that travelers must keep until they exit the country. If you require more than 30 days, be ready to support your argument by explaining your travel plans and showing your return ticket. Extensions can be arranged at Perus immigration offices in Lima, Arequipa, Cusco, Iquitos, Puno, and Trujillo.