Enrico Massetti - Amalfi to Rome

Enrico Massetti

Amalfi to Rome

Enrico Massetti

Copyright Enrico Massetti 2015

Published by Enrico Massetti

All Rights Reserved

The places we shall visit on this route are, too well known to need an introduction, Rome, Naples, and the Amalfi coast, touching so much ancient and modern history as to go back to mythical times with the cave of the witch Circe.

The most accessible access to the Amalfi Coast is from Salerno, easily reachable by car on the autostrada (highway) A3 and by train, including high-speed service from the North - Naples, Rome, and beyond. It takes around half an hour to go from Naples to Salerno using the high-speed train.

Two train companies provide the service on the same tracks and take the same time to get there, but they compete on service and price: Trenitalia is the state-owned company that competes with the privately owned NTV. Check the schedules and prices online at http://trenitalia.com for Trenitalia and http://italotreno.it for the NTV company.

SALERNO. An ancient town, probably founded by the Etruscans, Salerno became a Roman colony and was later under Byzantine, Longobardi, and Norman rule.

From the latter period dates the superb Cathedral, whose original Romanesque style is still preserved in the beautiful Atrium surrounded by 28 Roman columns.

We enter the church through a magnificent bronze Door (1099) that leads into the central nave, where two 12th century Pulpits are decorated with mosaics, the Tomb of Margherita di Durazzo, and the mosaics in the Chapel of Pope Gregory VII.

The Cathedral Museum contains excellent paintings and a rich Treasury, including the famous 12th century Altar-frontal carved in ivory.

Restaurants in Salerno

La botte pazza Vicolo Giovanni Ruggi 3 | piazza Portanova, +39 329 292 9013. Small, informal, and cozy restaurant, with five tables on the ground floor and a few tables on the floor above. A little hard to find, but well worth the experience. The chef comes to the table to explain the menu and to take your order. The free local house wine on tap is appreciated, as is the appetizer fried vegetables to tempt your taste buds while waiting for your main meals.

Botteghelle 65 Via Botteghelle 65, +39 089 232 992. This is the place to eat and drink locally produced meats, cheeses, wines, bread, desserts, and aperitifs. It can take a while to locate, but it's worth it! This isn't a 'classic' restaurant; they don't serve pasta, etc., just the meats and cheese you see in the cabinet.

L'Unico Largo San Giorgio, 14 (Via Duomo), +39 089 296 2671. Outstanding seafood, friendly staff, not touristic, good quality/price ratio - a must-go! The chalkboard sign full of fish dishes is all written in Italian, but it doesn't matter; the staff comes to your table and explains every dish they make and how they make it.

Il Maestro Del Gusto Vicolo Piantanova 7 | Near Chiesa Del S. Crocefisso, +39 333 910 2296. This is an excellent restaurant with a genuinely thoughtful and delicious menu and delightful service. Fresh ingredients that are uniquely prepared. If you are a 'foodie,' you will appreciate the details of the meal.

Osteria del Taglio Vicolo Ruggi d'Aragona 10, +39 089 924 3333. This is a modern but very charming Italian restaurant in the old town. Osteria del Taglio is unlike many of the rustic settings at which you can we have dined. It is newly renovated. It features a bright and cheerful environment. The restaurants feature a three-course "chef menu" and a wide selection of wines from the Province of Salerno and other wines from the Campania region.

Near Salerno, the eastern door of the Divine Coast, Vietri sul Mare has had a tragic history, full of invasions and ravages.

The original Marciana settlement was destroyed in 455 B.C. by Vandal barbaric hordes or, according to another version, by violent civil riots. It was attacked again and sacked many times by the Longobards in the following centuries, and then it was restored by descendants of the survivors of the slaughters.

The new town was called Vetere (ancient) to underline the historical continuity of the different communities.

Unfortunately, in the 17th century, a French fleet headed by a prince of Savoia attacked again and despoiled the town.

Despite so much mourning, the inhabitants of Vietri have managed to keep the pride of their individuality alive so that today, even if they are so near a much larger city, Salerno, they still proudly claim their own identity.

Forever Vietri has been the destination of tourists from near (inhabitants of Salerno have chosen its beach called della Crestarella as their bathing salon) and from far (the country gave hospitality to many German artists during the years between the two worlds' wars).

Today Vietri is particularly famous for its artistic ceramic production, to which the forcing, as mentioned earlier artists (Richard Doelker, Irene Kowalska, and others), well-supported by renowned ceramists like Guido Gambone, gave a substantial boost.

The ceramic industry began in the late Renaissance, thanks to San Severino Principles, and since then has always been a symbol of Vietri sul Mare.

Craft artisans used techniques handed down over the centuries to produce ceramic works. The decoration is done by hand using figures and patterns reflecting Mediterranean culture and way of life. The success of this craftsmanship makes each article produce a Unique Work of Art.

Vietri has various churches of great architectonic interest: above all, we point out the majolica dome of the Church of S. Giovanni and its octagonal tower; however, the natural beauty of the town is represented by the typical houses; splendid majolica pieces enrich all, often made by famous artists.

A walk in the town also allows you to visit the numerous beautiful shops of ceramic artisans.

Restaurants in Vietri sul Mare

NatoCrudo Restaurant Via Enrico de Marinis, 7, +39 089 761 748. This is the perfect place to taste the fantastic flavors of the sea. The chef is quite creative, and the food is terrific. Excellent staff and impressive wine knowledge. Overall, you could not be happier with your visit, and the price is very reasonable for the quality of the food.

Re Mauri Ss 18, +39 089 763 3687. This is truly a heavenly experience, starting from the service and finishing with the 'festival of deserts,' as my husband called it. They offer 4-5 kinds of bread, including one type with anchovies. Everything is outstanding, the view, service, and food. Amazing staff. Overall great value for money.

Ristorante 34 da Lucia Via Scialli 48, +39 089 761 822. Blink, and you'd miss 34 da, Lucia. Nestled into a little alcove on one of the windy roads of Vietri Sul Mare, this heavenly consumption of great Italian food will your taste buds tantalized for the whole week. A charming, very "Italian" restaurant by a small piazza close to the Vietri center. The atmosphere is warm and friendly. They offer lovely fish dishes, seafood, and pasta.