Fodors British Virgin Islands

Once a collection of about 60 sleepy islands and cays, the British Virgin Islandsparticularly the main island of Tortolanow sees huge cruise ships crowding its dock outside Road Town. Shoppers clog the downtown area, and traffic occasionally comes to a standstill. Even the second-largest island, Virgin Gorda, gets its share of smaller ships anchored off the main village of Spanish Town. Despite this explosive growth in the territorys tourism industry, its still easy to escape the hubbub. Hotels outside Road Town usually provide a quiet oasis, and those on the other islands can be downright serene.

Each island has a different flavor. Want access to lots of restaurants and shopping? Make Tortola your choice. The largest of the BVIs, it covers 10 square mi (26 square km) and sits only a mile from St. John in the United States Virgin Islands (USVI). If you want to kick back at a small hotel or posh resort, try Virgin Gorda. Sitting nearly at the end of the chain, the 8-square-mi (21-square-km) island offers stellar beaches and a laid-back atmosphere. If you really want to get away from it all, the outermost islands, including Anegada and Jost Van Dyke, will fill the bill. Some of the smallestNorman, Peter, Cooper, and Neckerare home to just one resort or restaurant. Others remain uninhabited specks on the horizon.

Visitors have long visited the BVI, starting with Christopher Columbus in 1493. He called the islands Las Once Mil Virginesthe 11,000 Virginsin honor of the 11,000 virgin companions of St. Ursula, martyred in the 4th century ad . Pirates and buccaneers followed, and then came the British, who farmed the islands until slavery was abolished in 1834. The BVI are still politically tied to Britain, so the queen appoints a royal governor, but residents elect a local Legislative Council. Offshore banking and tourism share top billing in the territorys economy, but the majority of the islands jobs are tourism-related. Despite the growth, you can usually find a welcoming smile.

With more than 60 islands in the chain, sailors can drop anchor at a different, perfect beach every day.

Laid-back luxury resorts offer a full-scale retreat from your everyday life.

Diving and snorkeling are great, and vibrant reefs are often just feet from the shore.

Your trip isnt complete until youve chilled at the casual beach bars on Jost Van Dyke.

Theres no mass tourism; the farther you get from Tortola, the quieter things become.

Most of the 60-some islands, islets, and cays that make up the British Virgin Islands (BVI) are remarkably hilly and volcanic in origin, having exploded from the depths of the sea some 25 million years ago. The exception is Anegada, which is a flat, coral-limestone atoll. Tortola (about 10 square mi/26 square km) is the largest member of the chain.

Restaurants

Hotels

Restaurants

Hotels

Beaches

Restaurants

Hotels

Beaches

Restaurants

Hotels

Beaches

Restaurants

Hotels

Beaches

Beaches

Tortolas main roads are well paved, for the most part, but there are exceptionally steep hills and sharp curves; driving demands your complete attention. Virgin Gorda has a small road system, and a single, very steep road links the north and south ends of the island.

Road Towns traffic and parking can be horrific. Try to avoid driving along the Waterfront Drive at morning and afternoon rush hours. Its longer, but often quicker, to take a route through the hills above Road Town. Parking can be very difficult in Road Town, particularly during the busy winter season. Theres parking along the waterfront and on the inland side on the eastern end of downtown.

The ferry situation is mind-boggling for newcomers. Ferries on Tortola depart from Road Town, West End, and Beef Island, so make sure you get to the right place at the correct time. Schedules are not always convenient for making quick connections and can change at the drop of a hat. And not all ferry routes are covered very day or at convenient times.

Hassle Factor: Medium to high.

Nonstops: None from the United States.

Air Travel: Most travelers connect in San Juan or St. Thomas. You can fly to Tortola, Virgin Gorda, or Anegada but only on a small plane. Several airlines have regularly scheduled service to either Tortola or Virgin Gorda. Although it may be cheaper to fly to Puerto Rico, the connections are better through St. Thomas on Air Sunshine ( 800/3278900, 800/4358900 in Florida | www.airsunshine.com ). If you have seven or more people in your party, you can also charter a plane from St. Thomas or San Juan; Fly BVI ( 284/4951747 | www.bviaircharters.com) is one of the local charter services.