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Tracy Jennings - The Fashion Design Toolkit: 18 Patternmaking Techniques for Creative Practice

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Tracy Jennings The Fashion Design Toolkit: 18 Patternmaking Techniques for Creative Practice
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The Fashion Design Toolkit: 18 Patternmaking Techniques for Creative Practice: summary, description and annotation

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With The Fashion Design Toolkit youll learn how tried-and-tested techniques like gathers, pleats, tucks, and twists can help you adapt patterns and create your own original garment designs. Tracy Jennings walks you through 18 patterning tactics to inspire fresh ideas, demonstrating how embracing pattern drafting skills can lead to innovative and effective collections.
Each technique is illustrated in a variety of contexts, showing how and why it has been used by other designers, so you can use the history of each tool as inspiration for your original collections. Ethical practice is woven throughout the book, with tips on how to implement techniques in an environmentally sustainable way.
The 18 essential techniques are divided into 5 categories:
Establishing Fit and Flare: Darts, Slash & Spread, Seaming, Insets
Channeling Fullness: Gathers, Ruffles, Pleats, Tucks
Fashioning the Fluid and Unstructured: Arcs, Flounces, Drapes, Twists
Engineering Fabric and Form: Contouring, Structure, Textile Designs
Focusing on Concepts: Adaptation, Reduction, Zero Waste
Online resources include a downloadable pattern block, which is available in US sizes 418.
www.bloomsburyonlineresources.com/fashion-design-toolkit

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BLOOMSBURY VISUAL ARTS Bloomsbury Publishing Plc 50 Bedford Square London - photo 1

BLOOMSBURY VISUAL ARTS Bloomsbury Publishing Plc 50 Bedford Square London - photo 2

BLOOMSBURY VISUAL ARTS Bloomsbury Publishing Plc 50 Bedford Square London - photo 3

BLOOMSBURY VISUAL ARTS

Bloomsbury Publishing Plc

50 Bedford Square, London, WC1B 3DP, UK

1385 Broadway, New York, NY 10018, USA

29 Earlsfort Terrace, Dublin 2, Ireland

This electronic edition published in 2022 by Bloomsbury Publishing Plc

BLOOMSBURY, BLOOMSBURY VISUAL ARTS and the Diana logo are trademarks of Bloomsbury Publishing Plc

First published in Great Britain 2022

Copyright Tracy Jennings, 2022

Tracy Jennings has asserted her right under the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act, 1988, to be identified as Author of this work.

Cover design: Dani Leigh Design

Cover images: [top left] Liv Bjorholm/EyeEm; [top right] Unite Images/Stocksy; [bottom] Retan/Adobe Stock

All rights reserved
You may not copy, distribute, transmit, reproduce or otherwise make available this publication (or any part of it) in any form, or by any means (including without limitation electronic, digital, optical, mechanical, photocopying, printing, recording or otherwise), without the prior written permission of the publisher. Any person who does any unauthorised act in relation to this publication may be liable to criminal prosecution and civil claims for damages.

Bloomsbury Publishing Plc does not have any control over, or responsibility for, any third-party websites referred to or in this book. All internet addresses given in this book were correct at the time of going to press. The author and publisher regret any inconvenience caused if addresses have changed or sites have ceased to exist, but can accept no responsibility for any such changes.

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

A catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress.

ISBN: 978-1-3501-0156-2 (PB)
ISBN: 978-1-3501-0158-6 (eBook)
ISBN: 978-1-3501-0157-9 (ePDF)

To find out more about our authors and their books please visit www.bloomsbury.com where you will find extracts, author interviews and details of forthcoming events, and to be the first to hear about latest releases and special offers, sign up for our newsletters.

Online resources to accompany this book are available at Contents Welcome to - photo 4

Online resources to accompany this book are available at

Contents

Welcome to The Fashion Design Toolkit This text is divided into an - photo 5

Welcome to The Fashion Design Toolkit! This text is divided into an introduction and eighteen essential techniques. This Introduction discusses the technique approach, noting that techniques are tools for designers to creatively employ in their collections. Each technique serves a specific purpose. Discovering and manipulating them inspires design. This book is of intermediate difficulty. It assumes that you have had previous experience with basic pattern drafting tools and practices, such as those required for patterning a front and back skirt, pant and bodice with sleeves. With this prior patterning experience, you are not expected to use the book in sequential order. Each technique is self-contained and independent of the others, so you are encouraged to jump to the one that best helps you reach your design goals. However, if you would like to review your patterning skills, the Darts and Slash and Spread techniques are a good place to start.

The illustration shows how the Ruffle technique is used to reimagine a basic silhouette (far left) into a variety of contemporary looks. Throughout the rest of the book youll learn how to modify a foundation pattern into exciting fashions that invigorate your collections.

Your Fashion Design Toolkit contains eighteen essential techniques placed in five defining categories:

CATEGORYTHE TECHNIQUEUSE THIS TECHNIQUE TO:
Establishing Fit and FlareDartsFit fabric close to the body
Fit in excess fullness
Create pointed or conical 3D shapes
Slash and SpreadAdd fullness that releases within the shape or to the hem
Add to the hem sweep
Add the fullness required to create darts, gathers, or pleats
SeamingUse line to focus attention
Fit specific areas without affecting the rest of the garment
Incorporate curves
InsetsRelease a fitted area or create a fit and flare silhouette
Add focused flare
Add blocks of color, pattern, or open areas
Channeling FullnessGathersAdd fullness within a shape
Soften the silhouette
Act as a supple equivalent to a dart
RufflesAdd layers of fullness
Add robust embellishment
Create extravagance
PleatsAdd controlled fullness
Add texture
Add crisp folds
TucksInclude placed and sewn folds
Add texture to a focused area
Use line to direct the eye
Fashioning the Fluid and UnstructuredArcsAdd flowing fullness
Incorporate volume
Add fullness without adding bulk to the seamline
FlouncesAdd lively fabric embellishment
Add frills to a silhouette
Engulf the body in swirls of fabric
DrapesUse bias to mold fabric to body curves
Create drama through falling and placed material
Swathe the body in fabric
TwistsAdd ties or tie closures
Create interest by rotating, turning, and coiling fabric
Include an organic alternative to fit darts and seams
Engineering Fabric and FormTextile DesignsAllow the fabric pattern to guide the design
Work creatively with stripes, plaids, and prints
Design using indigenous textiles
ContouringDesign strapless, one-shoulder, halter, and wrap silhouettes
Create snugly fitted garments that will stay in position
Eliminate the ease from a pattern piece
StructureDesign period pieces, cosplay, and theatrical costume
Use the body as a foundation for 3D forms
Construct fabric edifices
Focusing on ConceptsReductionCreate sustainable fashion
Portray the essence of a concept/remove gender stereotypes
Minimalize or deconstruct a silhouette
AdaptationsDesign for individuals with unique needs
Create a collection for a specific niche market
Create inclusive and accessible fashion
Zero WasteDesign garments that yield no fabric waste
Create environmentally friendly design
Alter patterns to create less fabric waste

The techniques are presented in a consistent order for easy accessibility and quick retention. The presentation of each technique follows this format:

Inspiration: Each technique begins with an inspiration that can be realized through patterning with the technique.

Explanation of the technique:

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