Copyright 2012 by LaVerne Ferguson-Kosinski
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying and recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, except as may be expressly permitted in writing from the publisher. Requests for permission should be addressed to Globe Pequot Press, Attn: Rights and Permissions Department, P.O. Box 480, Guilford, CT 06437.
The author and the publisher gratefully acknowledge the kind permission of Eurostar Passenger Services and its website, Deutsche Bahn and its website, Brittany Ferries, Hoverspeed UK Limited, Irish Ferries U.K. Limited, P&O Stena Line, SeaFrance Limited, DFDS Seaways, and Stena Line to use their resources in the compilation of the timetables in this text.
The International Services rail map on pp. xxi is reproduced courtesy of the Thomas Cook European Rail Timetable; www.thomascookpublishing.com.
Text design: Nancy Freeborn
ISSN 1081-1125
ISBN 978-0-7627-9083-8
Train schedules, prices, and conditions of use appearing in this edition are updated at press time and are subject to change without notice by the railways. Prices are estimates and are based on exchange rate at the time of printing. The information is to assist with trip planning only. We cannot be held responsible for its accuracy. Please check with the railways for the most recent information.
EUROPE BY EURAIL
2013
TOURING EUROPE BY TRAIN
HELP US KEEP THIS GUIDE UP TO DATE
We would love to hear from you concerning your experiences with this guide and how you feel it could be improved and kept up to date. Please send your comments and suggestions to:
Thanks for your input, and happy travels!
In Loving Memory
of
Our Son
Matthew Carlo Palma
19722007
A loving friend to so many
A world traveler and adventurer
A heart and soul filled with kindness
And uncommon generosity
Editor of Europe by Eurail
And Britain by BritRail
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
LaVerne Ferguson-Kosinski and her late husband, Lt. Col. George Ferguson, first coauthored this unique and comprehensive how-to guide in 1980.
After battling a long illness, George, who was globally and affectionately known as Mr. Eurail, passed away in 1997 and was buried at Arlington National Cemetery.
LaVerne wanted to ensure that accurate British and European rail travel information would continue to be available. She is devoted to producing comprehensive, practical, yet friendly guidebooks for the independent rail traveler or armchair dreamer. Her technical writing and editorial background; academic education in English, world history, and communications; and experience in research and development for an international research institute have added considerable substance to her three decades of traveling the rails in Britain and Europe.
Her dream of exploring the world began in third-grade geography class when she first began collecting travel brochures. After attending Ohio State University, LaVerne lived in and traveled throughout Europe. She resides in Fort Myers Beach, Florida, with her husband, Joe Cool Kosinski, a structural engineer.
Heartfelt thanks and appreciation go to you, the readers, whose comments, suggestions, and corrections help keep both guidebooks accurate and up to date.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Researchers for Europe by Eurail also included the late Matthew Palma, Major Robert Bean, Margaret Keith, Joseph Kosinski, and C. Darren Price. Major Robert Bean, a true train enthusiast, has played an ongoing, much appreciated role with both Europe by Eurail and Britain by BritRail for several years. His attention to minute details and knowledge of rail travelers needs is superb. Margaret Keith, a certified Red Badge Guide for France, an artist, and a longtime European rail expert, has provided her invaluable input to Europe by Eurail since 1982. Joseph Kosinski, aka the Steel Man, has been instrumental in Internet research, setting up databases, and accompanying his wife/author, LaVerne Ferguson-Kosinski, on her treks throughout Europe. Foremost a top structural design engineer in Florida with his own firm, J.C. Kosinski Engineering, Inc., Joes creativity and attention to details are unsurpassed as can be seen in his design of the Pentagon renovations in Washington, D.C.
We also wish to extend thanks to Raffaela Essayan, Frank Berardi, David Brever, Bill Schroeder, and the entire staff of CIT Tours; Jean Heger of Rail Europe Group; our many, many friends in the European tourist offices; and our travel partner professionals throughout Europe.
To travel by train is to see nature and human beings, towns and churches and rivers, in fact to see life.
AGATHA CHRISTIE
This 37th edition of Europe by Eurail reflects the new Europe and the energy and exuberance of its rail system. Its dynamic, its futuristic, and its on the moveaccelerating with the high-tech boldness and immense speed of the worlds finest transportation system.
Train travel is an enigma for most non-Europeans who either have forgotten or have never had an opportunity to learn what travel by train is like. Europe by Eurail takes the puzzlement out of European rail travellike having a friend along who takes you by the hand and shows you how to use the worlds finest transportation network to see and learn about European life and culture. Toward that end, this guide provides specific, pragmatic information with step-by-step directions.
Europe by Eurail is a train travelers how-to book. Europe by Eurail deals primarily with the necessities of train travel in Europe and offers guidance for appreciating the educational and cultural sites and events that abound along the right-of-way of the Continents magnificent rail system. It is not a hotel/restaurant guide but rather tells you how to locate them. Certain hotels and restaurants do occasionally gain mention, however, especially if they add to the graciousness and enjoyment of a train trip or a stay in a city.
See Europe by Train has been a favorite slogan of Europes railways for decades, but never has it been as full of meaning as it is today. You will never be bored traveling on a high-speed train because rail travel is still leisurely enough to fully enjoy the constantly changing scenes of hills and hamlets, farms and forests, and cities and countrysides. Each country has its own special attractions to offer rail travelers as they speed through, ensconced in comfort and free from worry. Added to the passing scenes is the opportunity for leisurely dining and drinking while chatting with fellow passengers, most of whom are the Europeans you hoped to meet.
Travel by train in Europe is a unique and pleasurable experience. All aboardand take your imagination with you.
Many visitors to Europe fail to realize that the European rail network (which we refer to simply as Eurail) can take you to practically every nook and cranny on the Continent, so they assume they must rent a car. At first glance, those European fly-drive packages might appear enticing, but the more you investigate them, the less appealing they become. In general, car rentals have one basic faultthe price you are quoted may not be the price you pay; it usually is higher. One important facet of a fly-drive package is the VAT (value-added tax), which ranges from 15 to 25 percent in European countries. In some countries, foreign tourists are eligible for refunds on certain purchases [contact 800-KNOW-VAT (800-566-9828) or visit www.globalrefund.com for more information], but there are no VAT refunds on car rentals. Reference to the VAT may be tactfully avoided in car rental information or perhaps hidden in the fine print of the terms. After determining the low cost of a rental car with unlimited mileage privileges (which also includes the privilege of buying unlimited gasoline), dont forget to multiply the bottom line by the VAT of the country and add that figure to the cost.
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