Carol W. Costenbader - Jams, Jellies & More

Excerpted from The Big Book of Preserving the Harvest, by Carol W. Costenbader

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Edited by Dianne M. Cutillo, Claire Hopley, and Carey L. Boucher

Cover design by Carol J. Jessop (Black Trout Design)

Cover illustration by Mary Rich

Interior illustrations by Alison Kolesar, except those on , by Mary Rich

Text production by Jennifer Jepson Smith and Kelley Nesbit

2003 by Carol W. Costenbader

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Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Costenbader, Carol W.

Jams, jellies & more / Carol W. Costenbader.

p. cm.

ISBN 978-1-58017-880-8

1. Jam. 2. Jelly. 3. FruitPreservation. I. Title: Jams,

jellies, & more. II. Title.

TX612.J3C67 2003
641.852dc21

2003005072

Making jams, jellies, marmalades, and other fruit spreads transforms the bounty of the harvest into beautiful rows of jars full of delicacies that last right into the leanest days of winter.

The art and science of turning fresh fruits into tempting fruit spreads is endlessly satisfying. My seasonal ritual often includes berry picking with children. Frequently, young berry pickers like to help make jam as well. The perfume of simmering fruit wafting through the house makes memories for everyone. Later, we savor the comforting pleasure of toast with homemade jamone of the underrated joys of life.

There are many types of sweetened jarred fruit, and the terms used to describe them can be confusing. Here are some definitions.

Butter. This easy-to-make, naturally thickened fruit spread is most often made from pured apples, pears, or pumpkin; sugar; and sometimes spices.

Conserve. In the nineteenth century, conserves of whole or sliced fruit in syrup were eaten for dessert. Today, conserves differ from jam in being made of two or more fruits, possibly with added nuts or raisins.

Curd. With fruit, butter, and eggs, curds are smooth, rich preserves most often made from citrus fruits, especially lemons. Curds must be refrigerated and stored for no more than 3 months.

Jam. This spread consists of washed, crushed fruit, sugar, and possibly pectin. Jam can be cooked or freezer-preserved.

Jelly. Clear and lacking in fruit pieces, jellies are made from strained fresh or purchased fruit juice, sugar, and pectin if needed.

Marmalade. Typically made with citrus fruits, marmalade is peel or fruit suspended in a jelly.

Preserve. Often used as a general term for fruit cooked with sugar to prevent decay, preserve technically refers to whole fruits in a sugar solution. The solution may be a jelly, a syrup, or anything in between.

The main ingredients of jams, jellies, and other spreads are fruit, sugar, and pectin. Fruit contributes distinctive flavor, sugar both sweetens and preserves the fruit, and pectin (a natural component of many fruits) is crucial for gelling. Though jams, jellies, and other fruit spreads are easy to make, always follow the recipe, changing neither the ratio of fruit to sugar to pectin nor the order in which these ingredients are added to ensure success.

Fruit. Start with the best, fresh produce. If you cannot use it immediately, you can freeze just-picked fruit for later without losing significant flavor. Simply pack the fruit without any liquid or sweetening. Theres no need to thaw frozen fruit before cooking; simply combine it with the other ingredients.

When using firm fruits, it is sometimes necessary to add cup of fruit juice for each quart of fruit. Do this only if the fruit doesnt produce its own juice within 1 minute of heating. Recipes may call for fruit acid, usually lemon juice, to be added to preserves made from fruits that lack natural acid.

Pectin. The amount of sugar and the fruits ripeness and pectin content all affect gelling. Pectin is a natural gelling agent found in fruits, especially in underripe fruits. Thus, including some under-ripe berries or fruit pieces in your fruit spread helps it to set. In recipes calling for added pectin, however, fully ripe fruit gives the best flavor.

Depending on whether pectin is added or derived from the fruit you are using, fruit spreads are either slow cooked or fast cooked. In the slow-cooking method (see ), no pectin is added and a ratio of 3 parts fully ripe fruit to 1 part slightly ripe fruit is used to produce a gel. This method requires more guesswork than the fast-cooked method, so it is chancy for the less experienced cook.

Liquid or Powdered Pectin?

Either one works well, but dont substitute liquid for powdered pectin in a recipe or vice versa; the change may affect the gel. Always follow directions on the package and in the recipe for adding the pectin to the fruit mixture.

7), less fruit is required because pectin is added. The recipe tells the exact quantity and cooking time. Never cook a pectin-added recipe for more than 20 minutes or the pectin will break down.

Sugar and Sweeteners. You may use various sweeteners to make your fruit spreads:

Pectin and Acid in Fruit

The amount of naturally occurring pectin and acid in fruit varies and depends on ripeness. The fruits in the following columns are listed from the highest pectin and acid content to the lowest.

Fruits with High Natural Pectin and Acid

Sour apples

Plums (damson)

Blackberries

Crab apples

Cranberries

Grapes (Eastern Concord)

Quinces

Currants

Citrus fruits

Fruits with Low Natural Pectin and Acid

Apricots

Peaches

Grapes (Western Concord)

Guavas

Figs

Prunes

Pears

Raspberries

Sugar. Granulated cane or beet sugar or light brown sugar can be used. In addition to sweetening and preserving, sugar helps gelling. Never change the ratio of sugar to fruit to pectin.

Honey. A light, mild honey can replace sugar. It has double the sweetening power of sugar and, therefore, fewer calories. Dont simply switch from sugar to honey, however; choose a recipe formulated for honey use.