Maria del Mar Sacasa - Winter Cocktails: Mulled Ciders, Hot Toddies, Punches, Pitchers, and Cocktail Party Snacks

As the colder months approach, a dusky blue light insinuates itself ever earlier into the day and the winds summer caress turns into a sharp reproach. Fall and winter may have their dreary stretches, but the glory of fiery-hued foliage and the hush of falling snow offer mesmerizing scenes and calming sounds. Gathering with friends at this time of year creates a comforting warmth that will hold us over till summer returns.

This book serves up the perfect antidote to any brisk day or frosty evening. It is broken down into categories, starting with seasonal classics like mulled ciders, wines, and hot toddies. These are followed by richer drinks, including spiky twists on eggnog and luxurious hot chocolates. Exuberant and festive punches also appear, as do chilled drinks made warm with heady spirits and spicy ingredients. A selection of recipes for small bites ensures the perfect party atmosphere.

The heart of this book may be the recipes, but its soul is the spirit of conviviality that is encouraged in the making and sipping of these special drinks. Stoke the fire, gather close together, and give a toast.

Many of these ingredients are familiar staples you might already have on handbut it never hurts to freshen up your stockpile with supplies especially for making cocktails. Once youve sampled a number of the recipes, you will have a handful of favorites and will always be ready to shake or stir something up.

Apple cider: This orchard elixir is the foundation for an assortment of beverages. Dense and cloudy, apple cider can be found at farmers markets and in the refrigerated section of the supermarket. Do not substitute apple juice, which lacks ciders fresh intensity.

Bacon: Smoky, porky, satisfying: bacon has made its way into the cocktails arena as a spirit infusion and a garnish. Select high-quality, thick-cut bacon for more flavor and deeply satisfying bite.

. Purchase chiles that are firm and smooth skinned; if you want a milder heat, remove and discard the seeds and ribs.

Chocolate: I always use bittersweet chocolate in my recipes, preferring the more intense flavor to that of milk chocolate. Look for varieties, either in bars or chips, that have 60 to 70 percent cacao. White chocolate is a chocolate derivative. During the manufacturing of chocolate, cacao bean solids are separated from the other components and later recombined. By contrast, these solids are left out of white chocolate, with the final product being made up of cocoa butter, milk, sugar, vanilla, and emulsifiers like lecithin. Be sure to purchase white chocolate that contains cocoa butter; inferior brands are often made with vegetable fat.

Club soda: This neutral, sparkling carbonated water adds fizz and balances out strong spirits without disturbing their flavors. Unless you plan to use a lot at once, such as in punches, keep small bottles on hand and store them in the fridge, so you can add a splash here and there while preserving the carbonation.

Cocoa powder: After harvesting, cocoa beans are roasted. The shells and kernels (cocoa nibs) are separated, and the nibs are ground and heated to produce chocolate liquor. Next, cocoa butter is separated from the liquor, which results in natural cocoa powder. This variety is naturally acidic and the most commonly found in the United States. Dutch process cocoa is treated with an alkaline solution, which results in cocoa powder that is darker in color and mellower in flavor. In most cases, especially beverages, the two types are interchangeable; when baking, however, it is important to use the variety called for to avoid interfering with the success of chemical leaveners.

espresso makers, and regular coffeepots are all acceptable for making coffee. Always brew coffee just before using it.

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for additional shopping suggestions.

Eggs: Every recipe in this book that relies on eggs, such as eggnog, calls for the large (not small, medium, extra-large, or jumbo) size. Prior to using, wash eggs to eliminate the risk of salmonella and let them come to room temperature for easier beating and incorporation.

Fresh herbs: Rosemary, thyme, and sage are frequently called for in the recipes in this book. To clean fresh herbs, fill a large bowl with cold water and soak them for a few minutes. Drain and repeat the process until the bottom of the bowl is free of sediment. Use herbs immediately or wrap leftovers in damp paper towels, place them in a plastic zip-top bag, and store them in the refrigerators crisper drawer.

Fresh produce: Many of the recipes rely on seasonal produce. Apples, pears, pineapple, lemongrass and fresh ginger, and citrus fruits, such as oranges, Meyer lemons, and kumquats, are usually easy to find. Items like blood oranges may more difficult to find out of season, so when they are available, snatch them up and try recipes that call for them. In many cases, citrus fruits are interchangeable.