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Lindsey Philpott - The Ultimate Book of Decorative Knots

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Lindsey Philpott The Ultimate Book of Decorative Knots
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The Ultimate Book of Decorative Knots: summary, description and annotation

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All knots are useful, but many can also be very beautiful. Here, Lindsey Philpott, expert knot tyer, sets out to provide the most comprehensive, useful, and attractive book of decorative knots from around the world. Readers will learn the materials, methods, measurements, and tools needed to tie dozens of beautiful knots. Flat knots, round knots, square knots, covering knotsyou name it, and this book has it. From braids to plaits to sinnets, here are step-by-step instructions accompanied by full-color photographs for the knot tyers reference.
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Table of Contents Acknowledgments T he author sincerely thanks his - photo 1
Table of Contents

Acknowledgments

T he author sincerely thanks his fellow knot-tyers for having shared their knowledge and skills so freely. Whether they are members of the International Guild of Knot Tyers, KnotHeads Worldwide, or simply the folks who stop by any of the demonstrations and displays in which I have taken part, their knowledge has been invaluable in providing pointers and answers to the questions that plague each of us when making a knot for the first time. Without the available knowledge of those who have gone before, each of us would be forced to start from scratch and would undoubtedly find the process less inventive and more a simple search for whatever truths knot-tying bringsit has charms to soothe the savage breast [William Congreve: The Mourning Bride; 1697 originally: Musick has charms to sooth the savage breast] or it may be that it shows the person just how much their persistence may be stretched.

By standing on the shoulders of giants we see farther, and may even be able to contribute by deriving a simpler tying method, perhaps a new knot, or even make some meaningful contribution to the store of knot knowledge.

I wish to thank my editor, Abigail Gehring, and all the staff at Skyhorse Publishing, for having put up with my poor English, punctuation, prosaic turns of phrase, and Photoshop efforts, making this book a contribution worthy of the name. In particular, I wish to thank publisher Tony Lyons for his forbearance and for being willing to remain steadfast to the ideals of publishing. Among the names of people whom I wish to thank on this page, if I have not already done so many times in person, are Brian Field, Harold Scott, Georg Schaake, Gary Sessions, and Bud Brewer, all of whom have now passed awaythank you all for your great contributions to an ongoing craft that is still alive and well, thanks to your efforts. Finally, and with the hope that she will forgive my putting her name last and by no means least on these pages, my wife, Kim. Without your support and encouragement this would not have been possiblethank you!

This book is dedicated to the memory of all great knot-tyers and to all who have trodden this rare and exotic paththe journey continues!

Projects

I have created two lists of projects below. The first lists projects where decorative knotting may be used, as well as the chapters in which knots that can be used for these projects may be found. The list is not exhaustive, and I feel sure that you will come up with some great ideas for projects not listed here.

KNOTTING APPLICATIONKNOT CHAPTERS NEEDED
Art frames, Attic door pulls1, 2, 4, 7, 9, 11
Bellropes, Broom hangers, Buttons, Brushes1, 2, 4, 6, 10
Closures, Cell-phone lanyards, Coasters1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 9, 10, 11
Door-stoppers, Doormats, Draft stoppers1, 2, 3, 9, 10
Eyeglass cord/hangers1, 2, 5, 9, 10
Fenders1, 2, 6
Garage-door closers1, 2, 9, 10
Half-hitch coverings, Handle coverings1, 2, 6
Individual cell-phone cords1, 2, 5, 9, 11
Kettle or teapot handle1, 2, 6, 9
Lanyards, Light-pulls1, 2, 4, 5, 6, 10, 11
Mats and Table doilies1, 2, 3, 8, 9
Napkin rings, Netting shopping bags1, 2, 3, 8, 9
Organizer tags1, 2, 10, 11
Party favors1, 2, 7, 11
Rail coverings1, 2, 6, 8, 9
Shower mats, Stars1, 2, 3, 7
Toggles, Tree decorations1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11
Umbrella handle covers1, 2, 6, 8
Vase and bottle coverings1, 2, 6, 7, 8
Window-shade pulls1, 2, 7, 9, 10
Xeriscape plant tags1, 2, 10, 11
Yacht wheel decorations1, 2, 6, 9
Zoom lens wrapper1, 2, 9

The second list is of projects to which I provide more detailed instruction. These are:

Beach chair finishing

Camera lanyard

Cuff links

Dog chew toy

Mothers Day gift

Pet curry comb hanger

Recycled hangers

Tree decoration

Yacht wheel marker

Here are the specifics on each suggested project.

Beach/Lawn Chair Finishing

The top rail of a beach or lawn chair receives a lot of handling. It also sits in the sunshine longest, sometimes getting very hot! So, too, do the side rails, and these can sear your skin! Here is an idea for a covering that may help alleviate the problems of heating and chafing. The beach chair used here has a rail of -inch diameter and a length of 22 inches.

Line:Cotton cord, colored or white
Size:#30 or approximately 2 mm, length approximately 60 inches
Time:One hour

Method: Begin by testing the size of your rail and line, making a small test section firstsee Chapter 2 for hints here. After finding out how much line you need, allow for some working slack and then try making up your line into a knittle, either bound with an elastic band or by using my suggested method of a Double Half Hitch (a Clove Hitch). Start at one end by tying a series of French Hitching (Chapter 6) over the rail, passing the whole knittle under each successive pass. Tighten each Half Hitch by tugging the cord in the direction of wrapping and then pulling it back against itself before again tugging in the direction of wrapping. Ensure that each succeeding Half Hitch is well set against its previous Half Hitch. When making the hitches below the chair it is easy to lose your sense of direction if you stand with the rail oriented right to left in front of you. For this reason, I recommend that you stand at one end of the chair-rail and then your hands will constantly follow the same direction, from left to right or from right to left, depending on which way you build the spiral. For a different look, use two pieces to make Moku Whipping or use three pieces for St. Marys Hitching, or just use two colors of cord when making the French Whipping. You might also like to try your hand at some coachwhipping if you are feeling adventurous, or perhaps some cockscombing. Tuck the beginning and finishing ends under or cover them over with a Turks Head Knot from Chapter 9, or even just some colored electrical tape, neatly done, if you are in a hurry!

Camera Lanyard

Whether you have a lightweight quickshot camera or a heavy single-lens reflex digital camera with giant lenses, it is usually easier to carry when suspended on a lanyard or a strap. Here is a handy lanyard that you may enjoy making and using, as well as showing off to your friends.

Line:Colored paracord, venetian blind cord, or white polyester cord
Size:inch or finer, length depending on chosen style
Time:One hour up to two or three days

Method: For a handy digital pocket camera, this should take you about an hour to make. For the larger one you may want to spend more time, depending on how fancy you want it to be. I have given directions here for the smaller one, with hints on what you could do for the larger one. The cord you select should be long enough to pass your hand through a doubled-cord loop, with about six inches more length than you need to fit over your hand. This is yourcorecord. You will also need a second, covering cord, its length depending on your hand size. Take yourcore cord and find the middle. Make a loop about three inches long of the doubled cord. Be SURE that the cord will go through the hanging buckle or metal strap on your camera! The center cord, used for suspending the camera, is now mounted through the cameras suspension bar and the tail ends of the cord are then pulled through its bight to make a Ring Hitch. Beginning a short distance (two inches or so) from the Ring Hitch, form the wrist loop with the tails of your center cord. Bend the tail ends of your wrist cord pair around to meet themselves, thus forming a complete circle the size you need to fit over your hand. Tie an Overhand Knot around the center pair with the tail ends and then allow the remaining tail ends to lie along the center line cords, forming a coreof four cords. You may want to use a piece of tape to hold the cords together temporarily while you make the covering using the second cord. Take your second cord, perhaps one of a different color, although shown here is a cord of the same color, and tie another Overhand Knot around the doubled center cord above (closer to the camera) the first Overhand Knot tolock the tail-end cords into place. Now proceed to use the second cord to tie a Solomons Bar series of Overhand Knots around initially four cords and, after the tail-ends are covered, the remaining twocorecords. Tie the Solomons Bar all the way around the circle that forms the wrist loop. Cut and heat-seal the ends when you reach the beginning of the work, having progressed all the way around the wrist loop. The doubled length of your second loop will need to be about four times the length of the doubled wrist loop, so be sure to allow enough cord!

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