Steve Fallon - Lonely Planet Hungary

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Hungary has always marched to a different drummer speaking a language, preparing dishes and drinking wines like no others. Its Europe at its most exotic.

Gellrt Baths (), Budapest
CATHERINE KARNOW / CORBIS

Hungarys scenery is more gentle than striking, more pretty than stunning. But you cant say the same thing about the built environment across the land. Architecturally Hungary is a treasure trove, with everything from Roman ruins and medieval town houses to baroque churches, neoclassical public buildings and Art Nouveau bathhouses and schools. And were not just talking about Budapest here; walk through Szeged or Kecskemt, Debrecen or Sopron and youll discover an architectural gem at virtually every turn. Some people (ourselves included) go out of their way for another glimpse of their hidden favourites, like the Rek Palace in Szeged, the buildings of Kszegs Jurisics tr or the Mosque Church in Pcs. Its almost as if theyre afraid these delightful structures will crumble and disappear unless they are regularly drenched in admiring glances.

Hungarians have been taking the waters supplied by an estimated 300 thermal springs since togas were all the rage and Aquincum was the big Smoke. They still do for therapeutic, medicinal and recreational purposes but the venues have changed somewhat. Today they range from authentic bathhouses dating from the Turkish occupation and Art Nouveau palaces to clinical sanatoriums straight out of a Thomas Mann novel. This is where the older generation like to rejuvenate and catch up on the local gossip. More and more though, youll see clear, chlorinated waters in organically shaped pools that bubble, squirt and spurt at different rhythms and temperatures alongside the requisite wellness centre offering a myriad of treatments. Good for the kids, good for the grown-ups, good for the whole family.

There is a lot more to Hungarian food than goulash it remains one of the most sophisticated styles of cooking in Europe. Magyars even go so far as to say there are three essential world cuisines: French, Chinese and their own. That may be a bit of an exaggeration but Hungarys reputation as a food centre dates largely from the late 19th century and the first half of the 20th and, despite a fallow period during the chilly days of communism, is once again commanding attention. So too are the nations world-renowned wines from the big-bodied reds of Villny and white Olazrizling from Badacsony to honey-gold Tokaj.

Wine tasting at Tokaj's Rkczi Cellar ()
GNTER LENZ / IMAGEBROKER

Budapest boasts architectural gems in spades, but the limestone plateau towering over the Danube Rivers west bank is the Hungarian capitals most spectacular sight ().

Fishermens Bastion
JON ARNOLD / GETTY IMAGES

Lake Balatons Northern Shore

Hungarys sea (and Continental Europes largest lake) is where the populace comes to sun and swim in summertime. The quieter side of Lake Balaton () draws the crowds with its lakeside location, cultivated slopes and robust white wines.

Reflections of Tihanys Abbey Church ()
ILONA NAGY / GETTY IMAGES

Thermal Baths

With more than 300 thermal hot springs ().

Szchenyi Baths (), Budapest
RICHARD I'ANSON / GETTY IMAGES

Wine & Plinka

Hungarian wines () or Somls flinty whites. Beyond the fruit of the vine is plinka, a fruit-flavoured brandy (think apricots, plums, even raspberries) that kicks like a mule. And then theres the increasingly popular aperitif Unicum, chocolate-brown in colour and as bitter as a losers tears.

LONELY PLANET / GETTY IMAGES

Szeged

The cultural capital of the Great Plain and Hungarys third-largest city, Szeged (), Hungarys finest salami.

Cupola of Szegeds New Synagogue ()
MARTIN MOOS / GETTY IMAGES

Pcs

This gem of a city () has survived the centuries in excellent condition. Pcs is exceptionally rich in art and museums. Whats more, the climate is mild almost Mediterranean-like and you cant help noticing all the almond trees in bloom or in fruit here.

Basilica of St Peter ()
DAVID BORLAND / GETTY IMAGES

Hollk

It may consist of a mere two streets, but Hollk () and some of their ancient customs.

Local women from Hollk
STEVEN VIDLER / CORBIS

Paprika

Paprika, the sine qua non of Hungarian cuisine (). It comes in varying degrees of piquancy and is a culinary and culturally Magyar essential.

STUART BLACK / GETTYIMAGES

Sopron

Sopron () has the most intact medieval centre in Hungary, its cobbled streets lined with one Gothic or colourful early baroque facade after another. A wander though the back streets here is like stepping back in time. The icing on the cake is the towns Roman ruins. But architecture aside, the little town that brought down the Iron Curtain beckons with its many vineyards and cellars where you can sample the local wine.