Stephen Bezruchka - Trekking Nepal. A Travelers Guide

a
travelers

guide

eighth edition

Stephen
Bezruchka
and
Alonzo Lyons

1001 SW Klickitat Way, Suite 201, Seattle, WA 98134

2011 by Stephen Bezruchka and Alonzo Lyons

All rights reserved

First edition 1972; second edition 1974; third edition 1976; all published by Sahayogi Press, Kathmandu, Nepal.

Fourth edition 1981; fifth edition 1985; sixth edition 1991; seventh edition 1997; eighth edition 2011; published in the United States by The Mountaineers Books, Seattle, Washington.

No part of this book may be reproduced in any form, or by any electronic, mechanical, or other means, without permission in writing from the publisher.

Distributed in the United Kingdom by Cordee, www.cordee.co.uk Manufactured in the United States of America

Copy Editor: Jane Crosen

Cover, Book Design, and Layout: Peggy Egerdahl

Cartographer: Pease Press Cartography

Cover photograph: Ama Dablam is one of the attractions in the Everest region.

Kai Pak Patrick Yeung

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Bezruchka, Stephen.

Trekking in Nepal : a travelers guide / Stephen R. Bezruchka and

Alonzo L. Lyons. 8th ed.

p. cm.

Includes bibliographical references and index.

ISBN 978-0-89886-613-1 (pbk.)

1. HikingNepalGuidebooks. 2. NepalGuidebooks. I. Lyons, Alonzo L. II. Title.

GV199.44.N46B49 2010

915.496dc22

2010045517

Printed on recycled paper

ISBN (paperback): 978-0-89886-631-1

ISBN (e-book): 978-1-59485-410-1

My introduction to trekking in Nepal came in 1982 when, as the official photographer for the first Canadian expedition to attempt Mount Everest, I joined my teammates for the walk to base camp.

Unlike todays commercial expeditions that fly almost to the mountain, allowing precious little time for acclimatization and orientation, we deliberately chose to walk almost all the way from Kathmandu along the trail system that the British had taken during the first ascent of the mountain in 1953. This paid off as the entire team was perfectly acclimatized after almost three weeks of gradual ascent. But what I didnt realize until much later was that the extra time that we spent on the trail affected the way I came to regard foot travel in the Himalaya.

Prior to that trek, I had focused only on the challenges and perceived dangers of the climb. Never having been to the Himalaya, I had no idea of the rich diversity of the natural and human landscape. By going the extra distance, I discovered the biggest reward of all, the hill people.

I also had the good fortune to have as a tent mate the expedition doctor, Stephen Bezruchka. I cant think of a better authority to initiate a neophyte to the mightiest mountain range on Earth than the person whose book Trekking in Nepal was already considered to be the bible of guidebooks for the region.

Since that wonderful introduction to the Nepal Himalaya, I have trekked most of the established trails and many of the more obscure tracks in the country. Given this perspective, I can say without exaggeration that the welcoming nature of the hill people of Nepal, and the integrity of their trail system, is without equal.

In 1989 my wife Baiba and I joined Stephen on a magical trek in western Nepal. Stephen used the opportunity to add this trek as a chapter in his book. Ill never forget the image of him striding up the trail, tape recorder in one hand, stopwatch in the other, asking occasionally for directions in fluent Nepali, totally at ease in the mountains he had chosen as his second home. On all our other treks when we werent graced with Stephens company, this book was a constant companion. In 1994, with our friend Ang Nima Sherpa of Kunde village, we linked six treks into one. Starting at Pokhara in the west, we looped around Annapurna, and continued another 80 days and 600 kilometers to arrive on the sunlit patio at Ang Nimas guesthouse in Kunde village where we sipped chang and admired the stellar view of Ama Dablam. There were sections along that route that were covered in Stephens book that even Ang Nima hadnt been on.

Over the years, this book has continued to evolve, adding even more tips on how best to interact with and understand the wonderful denizens of this former Himalayan kingdom. In the seventh edition, Stephen announced that it was time for someone else to take over the onerous, but rewarding task of revising Trekking in Nepal. Fortunately, Alonzo Lyons stepped forward, and in this eighth edition you will find an up-to-date guidebook for greater Nepal with the most current descriptions for Annapurna, Everest, Langtang, and Helambu, along with enticing new details on side trips in these areas.

Pat and his wife, Baiba, with the still unclimbed South Face of Dhaulagiri and the Kali Gandaki valley to the right behind them (Photo by Pat Morrow)

Alonzo has also added The Trails Less Traveled. This chapter will beckon to people hoping to get away from the popular venues and closer to the heart of this remarkable culture.

The best advice I can offer to the independent trekker who wants to acquire valuable insight into Nepal and in so doing, themselves, is this: Arm yourself with the 35+ years of distilled wisdom that are contained within and use this book as a cultural and geographical reference as much as a directional guide. By following the books basic tenets for helping to minimize tourisms impact on the local people and the environment, youll come to enjoy the hospitality of this unique country as much as I have.

Pat Morrow
Mountain photographer, filmmaker, author, and the first person to climb the Seven Summitsthe highest peaks on all continents

But in the end, guidebooks, like textbooks, are no substitute for the real world. They tell you what to expect from an endeavortravelin which the greatest pleasure is the unexpected.

Thomas Swick, travel editor,
Fort Lauderdale Sun-Sentinel

Peter Whittaker has said, There are certain spots in the world where you can stand that will change the way you look at things forever. For many, Nepal is that place. Adventure used to be for the elite or crazy, but now adventures are undertaken by ordinary people in economically rich countriesperhaps a disease of the complex, modern, postindustrial society.

Trekking in its various styles is an increasingly popular activity, with over 100,000 participants in Nepal annually. Especially along the popular routes, there have been many changes over the span of more than forty years that Stephen has been fortunate to be involved with Nepal.

Trekking is so popular because of the landforms in this remarkably varied country and because of the nature of the Nepali spirit. What can be done to enhance the experience of both the visitor and the Nepali host? Clearly it is understanding on both sides that is necessary. With the remarkable quality of Nepali tolerance, there is little that needs to be said about that aspect. But for the visitor, there is much to be learned about the way of Nepal if you want to be respected by your hosts. That is the purpose of this book. Whether you are going with an agency, organizing your own portered trip, or going it alone, this book will help you have an experience that is remarkable, memorable, and close to the heart of Nepal. For even though you might surmise that the larger numbers of tourists will dilute the hospitality of the Nepali people, the opposite is true. The more you are sensitive to the ways of Nepal, the more intimate and wonderful your experience. This will set you apart from the others.