Laura Martone - Moon Florida Keys

HANDBOOKS

LAURA MARTONE

Even those who have never ventured south of Disney World have probably heard of the Florida Keys. Stretching southwest from Miami between the Atlantic Ocean and the Gulf of Mexico, this diverse archipelago is, after all, legendary.

With its Mardi Gras vibe, much-publicized Hemingway connection, and ongoing threat to secede from the Union, Key West is surely the most well-known island in the region. This unique place nurtures a strange blend of hardy natives, eccentric artists, and wide-eyed tourists. But the Keys hold more than just the southernmost city.

If youre driving from Miami or the Evergladesboth vibrant areas worth a look before heading southyoull first encounter enticing Key Largo, the slowly burgeoning getaway for southern Floridians. Its the kind of place where locals can dock their boats just steps from laid-back waterfront eateries. With fascinating underwater coral reefs that extend along the eastern shore, its also the self-proclaimed diving capital of the world.

South of Key Largo, the remaining Upper Keys accessible by the Overseas Highway (U.S. 1) compose Islamorada, an area long celebrated for its bountiful sportfishing. After crossing a lengthy bridge, youll be in the heart of the Middle Keys, a transitional space between the natural pleasures of the north and the unabashed revelry of the south. Centered around Marathon (which, like Islamorada, encompasses several keys), this region offers a number of wildlife-oriented activities, from bird-watching haunts to dolphin encounters.

For even more animal sightings, continue south to the Lower Keys, where wild creatures abound in the National Key Deer Refuge on and around Big Pine Key. Even farther down, youll spy mammals of a different varietythe tourists and locals who descend upon the streets of Key Westespecially from October to April, when the weather is usually sunny and mild and offers a respite from colder places.

Even those who are intimately familiar with the Florida Keys only know a small percentage of them. The Overseas Highwaythe only drivable link to the mainlandconnects less than 50 of the more than 800 islands of this unforgettable chain. Venture out by boat to explore the more elusive ones, a trip that promises mystery, adventure, and an experience like nowhere else. After all, thats what the Keys are all about.

While some travelers head directly to Key West by boat or plane, most pass through the gateway areas of Miami and the Everglades before driving south to the Florida Keys. If you have time, consider exploring this diverse region, where you can stroll amid Miami Beachs colorful Art Deco District, soak up some sunshine on the Magic Citys stunning beaches, snorkel above the coral reefs of Biscayne National Park, take a guided canoe trip among the cypress trees of Fakahatchee Strand Preserve State Park, and visit the critters at the Everglades Alligator Farm.

From the mainland, most motorists take U.S. 1, also called the Overseas Highway, to reach the Florida Keys. The first island encountered is Key Largo, the largest of this unique archipelago. Here youll find several outdoor diversions, including Dolphin Cove and Dolphins Plussister facilities that offer a range of activities, from natural dolphin swims to trainer-for-a-day programs. Outdoors enthusiasts will especially enjoy John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park, where you can swim alongside sandy beaches, kayak among mangrove trees, or dive amid offshore coral reefs.

A WEEKEND: Experience Key West.

FIVE DAYS: Add Key Largo and Islamorada.

ONE WEEK: Add Marathon and Big Pine Key.

TEN DAYS: Add Miami and the Everglades.

Southwest of Key Largo are the islands that make up Islamorada, an upscale resort area favored by anglers and scuba divers. Outdoor attractions dominate here, where you can watch sea lion shows at Theater of the Sea, feed wild tarpon at Robbies of Islamorada, and visit four different state parks, including Indian Key Historic State Park and Lignumvitae Key Botanical State Park, both of which are only accessible by boat. Sea lovers might also appreciate the History of Diving Museum, which houses a curious collection of diving paraphernalia.

After experiencing Islamorada, youll pass into the Middle Keys, the heart of which is the laid-back town of Marathon. Animal lovers can swim with dolphins at the Dolphin Research Center, observe pelicans and raptors at Curry Hammock State Park and Crane Point Museum and Nature Center, or visit recovering sea turtles at The Turtle Hospital. For a quieter experience, visitors can relax on the areas lovely beaches or head south to isolated Pigeon Key, a historic base camp accessible by ferry or the Old Seven Mile Bridge.

Once youve crossed the Seven Mile Bridge