Verrall - Recipes from the White Hart Inn

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Recipes from the White Hart Inn

WILLIAM VERRALL was publican of the White Hart in Lewes, Sussex, from 1737 to 1760. Having been apprenticed to the French chef St Clouet, Verrall created recipes that were an inspired combination of the French and English traditions standing apart from those of his contemporaries. Published in 1759, the ideas in his Complete System of Cookery are strikingly modern, and many dishes which include turkey braised with chestnuts, rabbit with champagne and ham hock with peach fritters would not be out of place on restaurant menus today.

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A Complete System of Cookery first published 1759

This extract published in Penguin Books 2011

All rights reserved

Cover design based on a pattern from a plate from the Chelsea Porcelain Factory, c. 176069. Soft-paste porcelain painted in enamels and gilt. (Photograph copyright Victoria & Albert Museum.) Picture research by Samantha Johnson

Except in the United States of America, this book is sold subject to the condition that it shall not, by way of trade or otherwise, be lent, re-sold, hired out, or otherwise circulated without the publishers prior consent in any form of binding or cover other than that in which it is published and without a similar condition including this condition being imposed on the subsequent purchaser

ISBN: 978-0-24-195088-3

From a presumption of some small success from my friends I venture to publish the following treatise. To pretend to write for fame would illy become a person in my sphere of life (who am no more than what is vulgarly called a poor publican). Twould be an unparalleled piece of imprudence, and wholly incompatible to reason and the nature of things. Twill be sufficient for me that it meets with the approbation amongst my friends and acquaintances, as may just satisfy me for the pains I have taken to collect them (though small matters) together. The chief end and design of this part of my little volume is to show, both to the experienced and unexperienced in the business, the whole and simple art of the most modern and best French Cookery; to lay down before them such an unerring guide how it may always be well managed, and please the eye as well as the taste of everybody; and to show, too, by the notorious errors I have frequently seen, how of course it must for ever fail of being either good or pleasing, and a great many favourite morsels entirely spoiled.

First, then, give me leave to advise those who please to try the following receipts, to provide a proper apparatus for the work they take in hand, without which it is impossible it can be done with the least air of decency: and before I finish this, shall further show by maxims mine I cannot guess; but this Im sure of, hell be my voucher that it is all authentic.

As to the character of that gentleman, much at this time must not be said: that he was an honest man I verily believe, and might I have leave to give him praise equal to his merit, I would venture to say he was worthy of the place he enjoyed in that noble family he had the honour to live in. Much has been said of his extravagance, but I beg pardon for saying it, he was not that at all, nay, so far from it, this I can aver, that setting aside the two soups, fish, and about five gros entrees (as the French call them) he has, with the help of a couple of rabbits or chickens, and six pigeons, completed a table of twenty-one dishes at a course, with such things as used to serve only for garnish round a lump of great heavy dishes before he came here, such as calves and lambs sweetbreads, sheep and lambs rumps, turkeys livers, and many other such like things, of which, with proper sauces, he used to make as many pretty neat dishes. The second or third great dinner he drest for my Lord Duke, he ordered five calves heads to be brought in, which made us think some extravagant thing was on foot, but we soon saw it was just the reverse of it; he made five very handsome and good dishes of what he took, and the heads not worth a groat less each. The tongues, pallets, eyes, brains, and ears. The story of his affiette of popes-eyes, the quintessence of a ham for sauce, and the gravy of twenty-two partridges for sauce for a brace, was always beyond the credit of any sensible person; so shall leave that untouchd. The second course dishes, or extremes, he made as much difference in, I mean as to the expence, for what formerly (and that since my time too) made but one of most of them, he made two, and all prettier, because they were not so heavy. But I am afraid I shall launch out too far in encomiums on my friend Clouet; but beg to be excused by all my readers. One thing more and then Ill leave him to his new master marshal Richlieu (for there I am informed he now lives as steward, or maitre dhotel). That I thought him very honest I think I said before, not only that, but he was of a temper so affable and agreeable, as to make every body happy about him. He would converse about indifferent matters with me or his kitchen boy, and the next moment, by a sweet turn in his discourse, give pleasure by his good behaviour and genteel deportment, to the first steward in the family. His conversation is always modest enough; and having read a little he never wanted something to say, let the topick be what it would.

Before we begin with Mr. Clouets method or art of making his potages or soups, tis necessary first of all to point out his manner of preparing his bouillion or broth. Instead of the leg or shin of beef (which are the common pieces in your two-penny cut shops) take eight or ten pounds of the lean part, which, in London, is called the mouse-buttock, with a little knuckle of veal, neatly trimmd, that it may serve to send up in your soup. A pot that holds three or four gallons will do. When you have washd your meat put it over the stove full of water; take care that tis well skimmed before it boils, or youll lose the whole beauty of your soups and sauces; sprinkle in a little salt now and then, and twill cause the skim to rise; let it but just boil upon the stove, but take it off, and to simmer sideways, then all the soil will sink to the bottom; to season it take ten or twelve large sound onions, eight or ten whole carrots, three or four turnips, a parsnip, two or three leeks, and a little bundle of celery tied up, a few cloves, a blade or two of mace, and some whole white pepper; let it boil no longer than the meat is thoroughly boiled to eat; for to boil it to rags (as is the common practice) it makes the broth thick and grouty, and spoils the pleasing aspect of all your dinner, and hurts the meat that thousands of families would leap mast-high at; strain it through a lawn sieve into a clean peeling, scraping, picking, or washing of garden things, trimming of your meats, scaling or cleaning of fish, or any thing of that sort, for so much tautology would fill up a volume half as big as what I propose this to be, but shall put down the composition in as few words as it will admit of. Next then