Margaret Radcliffe - The Essential Guide to Color Knitting Techniques

Numerous people aided and abetted me in the conception and completion of this project, and they deserve my heartfelt thanks.

First and foremost are the knitters who gave generously of their time and expertise to create the samples that illustrate this book. You brought to this project unflagging enthusiasm, helpful suggestions, a willingness to confront unfamiliar techniques, and the ability to combat frustration with humor, for which I am eternally grateful: Debbie Brame, Carol Haskell, Nancy Lutz, Leanne Mitchell, Lawre OLeary, Pat Polentz, Cecilia W. Riegert, Jeanne Rippere, Phil Sponenberg, Christy Straight, Joanne Strauch, Cheryl Sweeney, Linda Tegarden, Tracy Watson, Darcy Whitlock, Corrie B. Whitmore, Catherine WingfieldYeatts, and one who shall remain anonymous.

Thank you also to all my colleagues who took the time to answer my questions about specific knitting problems and techniques, especially Joan Schrouder and Leigh Witchel.

The colorful, lustrous mohair and wool yarn used throughout the book was generously provided by Kid Hollow Farm in Free Union, Virginia, owned by Pat and Steve Harder ( www.kidhollow.com ). The yarn is a blend of their own kid mohair with fine wool, spun to their specifications and dyed by hand at the farm. I am very grateful to Pat and Steve for their support and enthusiasm, and especially to Pat for responding repeatedly to my desperate calls for more yarn, some of it custom-dyed.

In addition, the following businesses generously supplied additional yarn, equipment, and other supplies used in the creation of this book: Adriafil SRL ( www.adriafil.com ), Black Water Abbey Yarns ( www.abbeyyarns.com ), Briggs & Little Woollen Mills Ltd ( www.briggsandlittle.com ), Brown Sheep Company, Inc. ( www.brownsheep.com ), Cascade Yarns ( www.cascadeyarns.com ), Cherry Tree Hill Yarn ( www.cherryyarn.com ), Coughlins Homespun Yarns (717-896-9066), Ellens Pint Farm LLC ( www.ellenshalfpintfarm.com ), Honeypot Yarns ( www.honeypotyarns.com ), Kathleen Hughes Hand Dyed Originals (801-277-5318), Lawres Laine ( www.lawreslaine.com ), Lornas Laces ( www.lornaslaces.net ), Mountain Colors ( www.mountaincolors.com ), Plymouth Yarn Company Inc. ( www.plymouthyarn.com ), Strauch Fiber Equipment Company ( www.strauchfiber.com ), Tess Designer Yarns ( www.tessyarns.com ), Yarns International ( www.yarnsinternational.com ).

I offer my sincere appreciation to the authors and teachers whose work has expanded my knitting knowledge and specifically informed this book: Gladys Thompson, Deborah Newton, and Barbara Walker for bobbles; Sherry and Keely Stuever and Lucy Neatby for intarsia; Alice Starmore for wrapped steeks; Rick Mondragon for crocheted steeks; Joan Schrouder for knitted bindings; Merike Saarniit for Estonian pattern stitches; and, of course, Barbara Walker for mosaic knitting and more pattern stitches than could possibly be included.

Many thanks also go to my editor, Gwen Steege, who immediately saw the potential for this book when I suggested it and nurtured it through writing, editing, and production with understanding and excited anticipation, and my project editor, Erin Holman, whose knitting knowledge complemented, and whose editorial expertise far exceeds, my own. Thanks, too, to the team of designers, photographers, artists, and models who contributed to its success.

I am very grateful to my agent and fellow knitter, Linda Roghaar, whose knowledge of knitting and of publishing has helped me to accomplish current goals and to catch a glimpse of the future.

Last, but certainly not least, I thank my family David, Anna, and Allegra who listened, sympathized, and encouraged, over and over again.

Standard bind off. K1, *K1, insert the left needle into the stitch on the right, pass it over the other stitch and off the needle; repeat from *. At the end of the row, cut the yarn and pull through the last stitch to prevent it from unraveling.

Sewing stitch used to secure buttonholes to prevent fraying.

Cable cast on. A firm cast on with a ropelike edge. Cast on 2 stitches using the knitted cast on. *Insert the right needle between the 2 stitches (A). Knit up a stitch, leaving the 2 original stitches on the left needle (B). Insert the left needle up into the new stitch from the front and slip it off the right needle. Repeat from *, knitting each new stitch between the last 2 stitches cast on.

Crocheted cast on. Also called the bind-off cast on, because its chain mimics a bound-off edge. It may be used as a provisional cast on if worked in waste yarn or as a decorative cast on if worked in a contrasting yarn. You need a crochet hook in addition to one of your knitting needles and yarn. Make a slip knot and place it on the crochet hook. Cross the crochet hook in front of the knitting needle (A). *Bring the yarn behind the knitting needle (B), chain a stitch with the crochet hook (C). Repeat from *. Note that the yarn may be held in either hand.

If this is worked in a contrasting yarn, either as a decorative or a provisional cast on, repeat until the desired number of stitches is on the needle, cut the contrasting yarn and pull it through the last chain stitch to secure. Change colors and begin knitting as usual. To remove the waste yarn later, pick this tail back out, unravel the chain, and place the stitches on a knitting needle.

If this is worked to put a chain across the bottom edge and is not in contrasting yarn, stop when there is one less than the desired number of stitches, transfer the final chain stitch from the crochet hook to the knitting needle. Do not cut the yarn just continue knitting with it.

Knitted cast on. A loose cast on, useful when edges need to be stretchy or when loops are desired for fringe. Make a slip knot, leaving a short tail and place it on your left needle. *Knit a stitch, leaving the original stitch on the needle (A). Insert the left needle up into the new stitch from the front (B), tighten up the stitch. Repeat from * until you have enough stitches (C).

Long-tail cast on. Pull out a length of yarn for the long tail, about three times as long as the width of your knitting, plus a few inches. Make a slip knot at this point and place it on the needle. Hold the needle in your right hand with the index finger on the slip knot to prevent it from sliding off. Arrange the yarn in your left hand, with the tail over your thumb and the working yarn over your index finger (A). *Insert the needle up through the loop around your thumb (B), bring it over and behind the front strand on your index finger (C), then back out through the thumb loop to form a stitch (D). Drop the thumb loop, place your thumb behind the long tail and use it to tighten the loop. Repeat from *.