Anya von Bremzen - The New Spanish Table

THE NEW SPANISH TABLE

BY ANYA VON BREMZEN
FOOD PHOTOGRAPHY BY SUSAN GOLDMAN

WORKMAN PUBLISHING NEW YORK

TO B.Y.
WHO SHARED MY JOURNEY

Copyright 2005 by Anya von Bremzen
New food photography 2005 by Susan Goldman

All rights reserved. No portion of this book may be reproducedmechanically, electronically, or by any other means, including photocopyingwithout written permission of the publisher. Published simultaneously in Canada by Thomas Allen & Son Limited.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data is available.
eISBN: 9780761181590

Cover design: Paul Hanson
New food photography: Susan Goldman
Author photo: Katie Dunn

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Workman Publishing Company, Inc.
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www.workman.com

This book is a tribute to the genius and generosity of Spanish cooks. It couldnt have been possible without their friendship, support, information, and recipesnot to mention the countless astonishing meals that Ive enjoyed in Spain over the years. My heartfelt gracias to all the following people, as well as to those whom I may not have mentioned but whose kindness is deeply appreciated nonetheless.

Carles Abellan of Commer 24; Las abuelas de Sils; Ferran Adri and Juli Soler of El Bulli; Andoni Luis Adriz of Mugaritz; Oscar Alberdi of Alberdi; Ral Aleixandre of Ca Sento; Josean Martnez Alija of Restaurante Guggenheim; Clara Mara de Ameza; Felix and Susana Andres; Juan Mari and Elena Arzak of Arzak; Juanito Bayen of Pinotxo; Luis Bellvis; Martin Berasategui of Restaurante Martin Berasategui; Patxi Bergara of Bar Bergara; Xavier Canal of Pastisseria Canal; Jos Carlos Capel of El Pas; Pablo Carrington of Villa Soro; Gonzalo Crdoba of El Faro; Inma Crosas of Roig Rob; Quique Dacosta of El Poblet; Jos Ramn Elozondo of Aloa Berri; the Ferrer family of Freixenet; Xavier Franco of Sac; Pedro Garcia; Maria Jesus Gil; Gabriela Llamas and Carlos Meier; Juan Llantada of Comunitat Valenciana; Laura Lorca; Pep Manubens of Cal Pep; Lourdes March; Francesc Lpez and Jaume Marin of Patronat de Turisme Costa Brava; Quim Marques of Suquet de lAlmirall; Rodrigo Mestre; Alex Montiel and Iaki Gulin of La Cuchara de San Telmo; Quim Monzo of El Quim de la Boqueria; Adolfo Muez of Adolfo; Sonia Ortega of Spain Gourmetour; Quim Prez of Quimet i Quimet; Lourdes Plana; Paulino Plata of Junta de Andaluca; Laura Robles of Casa Robles; Joan, Josep, and Jordi Roca of El Celler de Can Roca; Salvador Rojo of Salvador Rojo; Angeles Ruiz; Santos Ruiz; Mara Jose San Roman of Monastrell; David Sol i Torn of Barquet; Joan Torrens of Es Baluard; Roser Torres; Mari Carmen Vlez of La Sirena, Jordi Vil of Alkimia; Rosa Vilaseca of Hotel Sant Ferriol; Jaume Vidal of La Plaa.

I first started writing about Spain as a journalist, and I am sincerely grateful to Nancy Novogrod at Travel+Leisure and Dana Cowin at Food&Wine, and to their respective editorial teams, for all the amazing assignments over the years. As always, my agent, Jane Dystel, was unflappable, inexhaustible, and full of savvy and cheer, while her partner, Miriam Goderich, offered invaluable assistance with the proposal. Mil gracias to Pilar Vico for her years of friendship and for nurturing my passion for Spain. Thanks, too, to ICEX, Janet Kafka, and Holly Hansen and Karen MacKenzie for their support. All those recipe-testing marathons would have been utterly pointless without our friends who came to dinner, tasted the food, listened to my stories, and stayed up late drinking orujo. I also thank Melissa Clark for her crumbly treats, and Maricel Presilla for the seventeenth-century chocolate.

Because of the vision and brilliance of Peter Workman, being published by Workman is a writers dream. To my editor, Suzanne Rafer, Im grateful not just for whipping this book into shape, but for launching my entire food writing career more than fifteen years ago. Who knows where Id be without her? Huge kudos to Lisa Hollander, Paul Hanson, and Lori Malkin for the dashing look of the book, and to Barbara Peragine for making it work; to Barbara Mateer for her unswerving attention to detail; to Katie Workman for her marketing genius; and to Sarah OLeary and Jen Pare for their tireless publicity efforts. Susan Goldman, together with food stylists Mariann Sauvion-Grady Best and prop stylist Sara Abalan, made the book sparkle with fabulous food photography, and Leora Kahn found just the right scenics. Thanks, too, to Fred Rose of the Chelsea Ceramic Guild.

My mother, Larisa Frumkin, has taught me that food is a pleasure meant to be shared with others, even if my dinner parties are still nothing compared to hers. Her love is what calls me back home from Spain. My final gracias are to Barry Yourgrau, who shared in every stage of this project, from savoring the alchemical cooking of Ferran Adri to washing the dishes after long, happy nights recipe-testing at our table.

INTRODUCTION:
Falling in Love with Spain

Some fast facts on the history, food, and wine of each of Spains regions

Bar hopping, complete with a vast array of tapas, is essential to the social scene in Spain. Smoky Fried Almonds, Eggplant Stacks with Tomato Jam, Grilled Shrimp with Pepper Confetti, Moorish Kebabs, Patatas Bravasall are perfect accompaniments to a glass of beer or wine spritz.

Enjoy hearty bowlfuls of both traditional and innovative, modern soups including Roasted Vegetable Soup with Anchovy Toasts, Tomato and Bread Soup with Fresh Figs, Castilian Garlic Soup, Silky-Textured Chicken Soup with Mini Meatballs, and six refreshing gazpachosfrom the classic to an adventurous Spicy Gazpacho Sorbet.

The Spanish take on salads: beautiful vegetables, simply dressed with the finest quality olive oil and vinegar. What could be better? Try Green Salad with Apricots and Hazelnuts, Mesclun with Figs, Cabrales, and Pomegranate, a Fava Bean Salad with Jamn and Fresh Mint, and a Roasted Pepper Salad so good that addictive is part of its name.

In Spain the egg is belovedand more likely to show up at lunch or supper than first thing in the morning. The iconic Potato Tortilla. Tasty Eggs Over Smoked Bread Hash. A luxurious Wild Mushroom Revuelto in an Egg Carton. Use only the freshest, best-quality eggs for these heavenly dishes.

Canaps, tostadas, cocas, and empanadasbreads find their way onto the Spanish table in a remarkable array of tasty bites. Serve up Pastry Puffs with Roquefort and Apple Spread, Basque Triple Seafood Canaps, Deconstructed Tomato Bread, Galician Tuna Empanada with Melting Onions, and a crusty pizzalike Coca with Candied Red Peppers.

Roasted Halibut on a Bed of Potatoes. Monkfish with Eggplant Allioli. Fresh Sardines with Garlic and Parsley. Seafood Stew in Romesco Sauce. Cadiz Clams with Spinach and Eggs. Incredibly fresh seafood is at the heart of the Spanish diet and translates into recipes that are welcome on any seafood lovers table.