Michelle Phillipov - Fats: A Global History

FATS

Edible

Series Editor: Andrew F. Smith

EDIBLE is a revolutionary series of books dedicated to food and drink that explores the rich history of cuisine. Each book reveals the global history and culture of one type of food or beverage.

Already published

Apple Erika Janik Banana Lorna Piatti-Farnell

Barbecue Jonathan Deutsch and Megan J. Elias

Beef Lorna Piatti-Farnell Beer Gavin D. Smith

Brandy Becky Sue Epstein Bread William Rubel

Cake Nicola Humble Caviar Nichola Fletcher

Champagne Becky Sue Epstein Cheese Andrew Dalby

Chocolate Sarah Moss and Alexander Badenoch

Cocktails Joseph M. Carlin Curry Colleen Taylor Sen

Dates Nawal Nasrallah Doughnut Heather Delancey Hunwick

Dumplings Barbara Gallani Eggs Diane Toops

Fats Michelle Phillipov Figs David C. Sutton

Game Paula Young Lee Gin Lesley Jacobs Solmonson

Hamburger Andrew F. Smith Herbs Gary Allen

Hot Dog Bruce Kraig Ice Cream Laura B. Weiss

Lamb Brian Yarvin Lemon Toby Sonneman

Lobster Elisabeth Townsend Melon Sylvia Lovegren

Milk Hannah Velten Mushroom Cynthia D. Bertelsen

Nuts Ken Albala Offal Nina Edwards Olive Fabrizia Lanza

Onions and Garlic Martha Jay Oranges Clarissa Hyman

Pancake Ken Albala Pie Janet Clarkson

Pineapple Kaori O Connor Pizza Carol Helstosky

Pork Katharine M. Rogers Potato Andrew F. Smith

Pudding Jeri Quinzio Rice Renee Marton Rum Richard Foss

Salmon Nicolaas Mink Sandwich Bee Wilson

Sauces Maryann Tebben Sausage Gary Allen Soup Janet Clarkson

Spices Fred Czarra Sugar Andrew F. Smith Tea Helen Saberi

Tequila Ian Williams Truffle Zachary Nowak

Vodka Patricia Herlihy Water Ian Miller

Whiskey Kevin R. Kosar Wine Marc Millon

A Global History

Michelle Phillipov

REAKTION BOOKS

Published by Reaktion Books Ltd
Unit 32, Waterside
4448, Wharf Road
London N1 7UX, UK
www.reaktionbooks.co.uk

First published 2016

Copyright Michelle Phillipov 2016

All rights reserved
No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publishers

Page references in the Photo Acknowledgements and
Index match the printed edition of this book.

Printed and bound in China by 1010 Printing International Ltd

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library

eISBN: 9781780236100

Fats are essential for life. Along with protein and carbohydrates, they are the bodys primary sources of energy. But fats are not just about nutrition: they are also loaded with cultural and symbolic significance. To chew the fat; to butter someone up; fat cat; fat chance; to know which side ones bread is buttered; to grease ones palms; to lard ones prose; to look as if butter wouldnt melt in ones mouth; to pour oil on troubled waters In popular phrases and idioms, fats variously represent wealth, good favour, coldness, flattery and bribery. Perhaps more so than any other food, fats are ambiguous substances producing multiple meanings. These meanings have been contested throughout history, in global cuisines, in ongoing controversies about fats effects on health, in the practices of the food industry, and through the representation of fats in contemporary art, literature and popular culture. Fats have been understood as simultaneously commonplace and decadent, linked to both power and poverty, and associated with desire and with death.

While in common parlance fat is often synonymous with the fleshy corpulence of obesity, this book considers the uses and meanings of culinary fats: that is, the kinds that are ingested, rather than deposited on the body. As one of the three vital macronutrients, fats exist in every corner of the globe where humans can be found. They appear in a myriad of forms and derive from a variety of origins, including land and sea animals, seeds, fruits and nuts. Fats are a class of chemical compounds called triglycerides, which are formed by the union of glycerol and three fatty acids. If solid at room temperature, these triglycerides tend to be referred to as fats; if they are liquid at room temperature, they are normally called oils. Typically, animal sources produce fats, while plant sources produce oils (with the exception of fish, which also produce oils).

Humans obtain fats and oils through a variety of mechanical and industrial means, including agitation (to make butter, for example), rendering (as in duck fat), pressing (such as for extra virgin olive oil) and extraction (for example, rapeseed/canola oil). But despite the differences in production methods and appearance, the culinary purposes and nutritional qualities of fats and oils are often similar. Both preserve and lubricate food, bringing richness and desirable textures to a range of dishes, as well as a sense of satiety. They also act as flavour carriers, coating the tongue and holding the flavour on your taste buds; they dissolve essential vitamins (A, D, E, K) and aroma compounds that are insoluble in water; and they provide essential fatty acids, which the body cannot synthesize on its own. As a vital source of nourishment, fats are both ubiquitous and universal, but their culinary pleasure also makes them luxuries. This is a book about the extraordinary life simultaneously commonplace and remarkable, alternately banal and laden with meaning of culinary fat.

Fats are more than simply foods to be eaten. Throughout human history, fat has been a symbol to be wielded. Fats have been integral to the reinforcement and regulation of cultural, social, religious and economic values, simultaneously symbolizing and bestowing power, authority, luxury and distinction.

Humans larger brains and shorter digestive tracts mean that, biologically, we are much more dependent on nutrient-and energy-dense foods than other primates. At nine calories per gram, fat is much more energy dense than either protein or carbohydrate, which each consist of only four calories per gram. For most of the worlds hunter-gatherer societies, fats play a crucial role. In most traditional diets, fats comprise between 36 per cent and 43 per cent of the diet by caloric intake,game animals are especially lean excessive consumption of lean meat can result in a form of protein poisoning known as rabbit starvation, an agonizing and deadly condition in which sufferers experience intense pain and insatiable hunger. The Canadian explorer Vilhjalmur Stefansson, who spent many years with the native peoples of North America, observed their careful avoidance of overly lean meat, writing: