Fourth Estate
An imprint of HarperCollinsPublishers
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www.harpercollins.co.uk
First published in Great Britain by Fourth Estate in 2015
Text copyright Tarek Malouf 2015
Photography Kate Whittaker 2015
Tarek Malouf asserts the moral right to be identified as the author of this work
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library
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Source ISBN: 9780007564590
Ebook Edition JANUARY 2015 ISBN: 9780007564606
Version: 2015-02-10
Contents
When I opened the door of The Hummingbird Bakery in Portobello Road in 2004, and let the first customer in, I didnt realise that I was also opening the door onto a journey that would take me into the almost endless world of American baking. A handful of loyal customers accompanied me, at that first bakery, in discovering new American-style goodies. They were soon joined by many home-bakers, indulging their sweet tooths, honing their whisking and frosting skills, wowing their friends, colleagues and families with impressive multi-layer cakes, fluffy cupcakes and abundant sweet bakes. As more Hummingbird Bakery branches opened in London, our reach expanded much further thanks to our recipe books and social media pages. What we all share is a love of baking and an appreciation for the quirky fabulousness that is the American baked good!
Americana can be loud all neon lights and shiny colours. There are those American goodies were all familiar with: they stand out, demand to be noticed and they almost seem to know theyre famous. But theres more to the United States and its sweet treats than that. Whilst every American region has its specialties, theres no place like the South if you want to enter a unique world of baked goods. These goodies will draw you in and envelop you like the sweet scent of a pie cooling in an open window.
Down south, things are slower and most definitely sweeter. When I started to think about what kind of recipes I wanted to gather and write for this book, my mind kept turning back to some of the tantalisingly special things that I had eaten on my trips to the United States and especially to the South. I knew that beyond the Pecan Pies and Red Velvet Cakes there were so many other recipes, unknown in the UK, that were begging to be discovered by our wonderful home-bakers.
I decided to go on a journey that would take me from New York City down to Durham in North Carolina, on to Atlanta and New Orleans, and end up in Dallas. Visiting relatives and old friends, I had come armed with only one demand: take me to the best desserts in town! And everyone duly helped out after all, who could turn down the chance to eat dessert in the name of research?
In eating my way southwards, I discovered the rich, spicy tastes of old-fashioned recipes known only in specific regions; treats that were show stoppers; cakes that needed many steps and careful consideration (people had more time for baking in the past); but also easy recipes that could be mixed up in minutes but tasted just as good.
Running through all the recipes was a history of the South, and indeed the United States as a whole. Ginger, cinnamon and nutmeg from the Old World, liberally used, blending together with pecans and pumpkins from the New World. Fruits that need the hot sun, such as peaches from Georgia and oranges from Florida, to freshen things up and give a zing to cakes and pies. The peanuts and sweet potatoes used by African slaves in their daily cooking, along with cornbread and molasses, that influenced American baking in a unique way. Peanut butter in particular is so familiar to the American palate that it is strange to think it seemed crazily exotic to British bakers a generation ago. The Southern baker has never shied away from experimentation, with vintage recipes made with odd ingredients sitting alongside the traditional goodies made with the Holy Trinity of Southern ingredients: pumpkins, pecans and bourbon. Throw in a lot of chocolate, some marshmallows and maybe a little more bourbon and youre on your way to discovering how Southerners like their desserts!
Most of all, I am excited to introduce readers to recipes that they have probably not seen before. I know how excited they will be to progress that one step further into the rich history and techniques of American baking to treat their friends and family with delicious creations. At The Hummingbird Bakery we love the fact that weve brought our readers on an American baking journey, and were excited to say that we think weve reached the final destination. Were kicking back on the rocking chair with our plate of pie and declaring that Life is Sweet.
Tarek
Gooey Butter Cake
Oatmeal Spice Cake
7Up Pound Cake
Black Fruitcake
Molasses Pecan Crumb Cake
Kentucky Bourbon Cake
Chocolate Bundt Cake
Ozark Pudding Cake
Gingerbread Cake
Tunnel of Fudge Cake
Upside-down Pear Cake
Gooey Butter Cake
This cake of two parts, a yeast dough base and soft, gooey topping, originates in St Louis, Missouri. Remember to take it out of the oven while still very slightly wobbly it will firm up and set as it cools.
Makes one 23 x 32cm (9 x 13in) cake, to slice as desired
For the cake
55ml (2fl oz) whole milk
55ml (2fl oz) water
50g (2oz) unsalted butter
2 tsp dried active or instant yeast
265g (9oz) plain flour
50g (2oz) caster sugar
tsp salt
1 large egg
For the gooey butter filling
310g (11oz) unsalted butter, softened
160ml (5fl oz) condensed milk (sweetened)
160g (5oz) golden syrup
2 large eggs
90g (3oz) plain flour
1 tsp vanilla extract
Pinch of salt
Icing sugar, to decorate
One 23 x 32cm (9 x 13in) tin
To make the cake, preheat the oven to 175C (350F), Gas mark 4. Grease the tin with butter and dust with flour.
Heat the milk, water and butter in a small saucepan over a low heat until the butter has melted. Allow to cool until lukewarm, sprinkle the yeast over the top and stir. Leave for 10 minutes.
Put the flour, sugar and salt in the bowl of a freestanding mixer or a bowl you can use an electric whisk in and mix together with a fork. Pour in the yeast mixture and egg and mix for 2 minutes at a medium speed, making sure you scrape down the sides of the bowl as you go, until combined. Switch to the dough hook and knead for 10 minutes on a medium speed.
Pour the dough into the prepared tin it will be soft and sticky. Press the dough into the tin so that it fills it up completely, pressing it up the sides of the tin. Set aside while you make the filling. The dough will rise a little in the tin as you prepare the filling this is normal.