THE BOOK OF
SCHMALTZ
ALSO BY MICHAEL RUHLMAN
Salumi: The Craft of Italian Dry Curing
Ruhlmans Twenty
Ratio: The Simple Codes Behind the Craft of Everyday Cooking
A Return to Cooking (with Eric Ripert)
The Elements of Cooking: Translating the Chefs Craft for Every Kitchen
Michael Symons Live to Cook (with Michael Symon)
Under Pressure: Cooking Sous Vide (with Thomas Keller)
Charcuterie (with Brian Polcyn)
Bouchon (with Thomas Keller, Jeffrey Cerciello, and Susan Heller)
The French Laundry Cookbook (with Thomas Keller and Susie Heller)
The Reach of a Chef: Professional Cooks in the Age of Celebrity
The Soul of a Chef: The Journey Toward Perfection
The Making of a Chef: Mastering Heat at the Culinary Institute of America
THE BOOK OF
SCHMALTZ
L O VE S O NG T O A F OR G O TTEN F AT
MICHAEL RUHLMAN
PHOTOGRAPHS BY DONNA TURNER RUHLMAN
LITTLE, BROWN AND COMPANY
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Copyright 2013 by Ruhlman Enterprises, Inc.
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Cover photographs by Donna Turner Ruhlman
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ISBN - - - 25409 -
To Lois Waxman Baron and her forebears
INTRODUCTION
A Thread in a Great Tapestry
LOIS WHO?
How This Book Came to Be
HOW TO MAKE
SCHMALTZ
TRADITIONAL
RECIPES
CONTEMPORARY
RECIPES
APPENDIX:
CHICKEN STOCK
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
INDEX
THE BOOK OF
SCHMALTZ
INTRODUCTION
A Thread in a
Great Tapestry
Theres nothing else like it, Lois
Baron lamented one afternoon at a
neighborhood gathering. Its a shame
were losing it.
It, uttered softly, almost apolo-
getically, was schmaltz.
Lois is a terrific cook and was look-
ing forward to all the cooking she
was planning as Rosh Hashanah and
Yom Kippur, the High Holy Days of
the Jewish year, approached. First on
her list was schmaltz, the rendered
chicken fat, cooked with onion, that
would flavor so many of her dishes.
Id longed to work with this ne-
glected, much-maligned, all-but-for-
gotten fat, and that remark catalyzed
the urge.
I have for years been a pro-fat pros-
elytizer in a fat-phobic land, singing
the glories of pig fat, working assidu-
ously to encourage America to make
sausage in the book Charcuterie , and
to dry-cure salami and prosciutto in
the book Salumi . And I rail against
Americas knee-jerk vilifying of fat
generally. Fat doesnt make us fat
eating too much makes us fat. Eating
THE BOOK OF SCHMALTZ
all that processed crap, and cleaning
our overfilled plates at chain restau-
rants, makes us fat. Lack of vigorous
daily exercise makes us fat.
The truth is, our bodies need fat.
Fat is stored energy. Fat allows our