Bloom - Washington Food Artisans: Farm Stories and Chef Recipes

Copyright 2012 by Leora Y. Bloom
Photography copyright 2012 by Clare Barboza
All rights reserved. No portion of this book may be reproduced or utilized in any form, or by any electronic, mechanical, or other means, without the prior written permission of the publisher.

Cover design: Anna Goldstein
Cover photographs: Clare Barboza
Interior design and composition: Anna Goldstein
Interior photographs: Clare Barboza, Turnbow Flat Farms (),
and Rachelle Long (lobster mushroom and blackberries on )

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data is available.

eISBN: 978-1-57061-826-0

Sasquatch Books
1904 Third Avenue, Suite 710
Seattle, WA 98101
(206) 467-4300
www.sasquatchbooks.com

v3.1

To the farmers, foragers, and fishermen of
Washington, who keep us all so well fed.

Soups

CHEF SABRINA TINSLEY

CHEF JASON FRANEY

CHEF BOBBY MOORE

Salads

CHEF CHESTER GERL

CHEF WALTER PISANO

CHEF JACK STRONG

CHEFS ANSON AND JENNY KLOCK

CHEF JAMES DROHMAN

CHEF JASON WILSON

Appetizers

CHEF TOM DOUGLAS

CHEF WALTER PISANO

CHEF MARK FULLER

CHEF JEREMY MCLACHLAN

CHEF CHARLIE DURHAM

CHEF LISA DUPAR

CHEF CRAIG HETHERINGTON

CHEF TOM DOUGLAS

CHEF JASON STRATTON

Main Dishes

CHEF ANDREW WILSON

CHEF DANIELLE CUSTER

CHEF JASON WILSON

CHEF VUONG LOC

CHEF KELLY DALY

CHEF NICK PITSILIONIS

CHEF MATT DILLON

CHEF KEITH LUCE

CHEF DYLAN GIORDAN

CHEF TODD TORGERSON

CHEF MARIA HINES

CHEF WALTER PISANO

CHEF AMY MCCRAY

CHEF JEFFREY WILSON

CHEF WALTER PISANO

CHEF CHARLIE DURHAM

Side Dishes

CHEF LISA DUPAR

CHEF JERRY TRAUNFELD

CHEF DAISLEY GORDON

CHEF ERICKA BURKE

CHEF JOHN HOWIE

Desserts

CHEF CHARLIE DURHAM

CHEF ROBIN LEVENTHAL

PASTRY CHEF DANA CREE

ADRIA SHIMADA

CHEF ETHAN STOWELL

CHEF LESLIE MACKIE

PASTRY CHEF BRITTANY BARDELEBEN

CHEF HEATHER EARNHARDT

PASTRY CHEF DANA CREE

PASTRY CHEF BRITTANY BARDELEBEN

More

CHEF LISA DUPAR

PASTRY CHEF DANA CREE

JOHN GUNNAR

I never could have written this book without the generosity of all these incredible food artisans. They took time out of their busy lives to patiently explain what they do and how they do it, and they graciously allowed me to ask all sorts of personal questions in order to better understand why they do it. More than anything, I hope they are happy with the end result. They are (in order by chapter): Don Hilario Alvarez, Eddie Alvarez, Billy Allstot, Brent Olsen, Stephen Robins, Brooke Lucy, Beverly Phillips, Steve Phillips, Kurt Timmermeister, Mary MacDonald, Duncan MacDonald, Pete Knutson, Bill Whitbeck, James Hall, Gretchen Hoyt, Jerry Pipitone, Stina Booth, Donna Westom, Roy Nettlebeck, Rick Middleton, and John Bookwalter.

Having worked in restaurant kitchens, I know exactly how busy chefs are. Never very comfortable asking for favors, I was terrified by the process of gathering all this inside information. But my fears were all for naught. As soon as I explained what the project was about, all of the chefs helped me in so many ways: some offered recipes; some met with me and explained why they are so loyal to local producers; some gave me lists of producers to consider and other chefs to contact. All were kind and helped make this book a joy to work on. They are: Brittany Bardeleben, Ericka Burke, Dana Cree, Danielle Custer, Kelly Daly, Matt Dillon, Tom Douglas, James Drohman, Lisa Dupar, Charlie Durham, Heather Earnhardt, Jason Franey, Mark Fuller, Chester Gerl, Dylan Giordan, Daisley Gordon, John Gunnar, Craig Hetherington, Maria Hines, John Howie, Anson Klock, Jenny Klock, Robin Leventhal, Vuong Loc, Keith Luce, Leslie Mackie, Amy McCray, Jeremy McLachlan, Bobby Moore, Walter Pisano, Nick Pitsilionis, Thierry Rathureau, Angie Roberts, Adria Shimada, Adam Stevenson, Ethan Stowell, Jason Stratton, Jack Strong, John Sundstrom, Sabrina Tinsley, Todd Torgerson, Jerry Traunfeld, Andrew Wilson, Jason Wilson, Jeffrey Wilson, and Ron Zimmerman. In particular, Chef Charlie Durham not only contributed recipes, he also helped me test recipes.

Chris Curtis, director of the Neighborhood Farmers Market Alliance in Seattle, got me off to a great start by helping me grasp all the different ways in which we benefit by buying directly from producers, and by introducing me to a number of her fabulous farmers. Jamie Peha, principal of Peha Promotions and former marketing director for the Washington State Wine Commission, helped me understand what a challenge it would be to choose just two wineries to represent the hundreds of fine ones we have in Washington. She shared the stories of how many of them came to be, and Im pretty sure theres another book in there.

Besides talking to strangers, the part of this project that scared me the most was the massive amount of transcribing that was needed in order for me to write accurate profiles. Sumedh Kanetkar taught me how to ready my sound files and upload them to Amazons Mechanical Turk, which saved the day, mostly by connecting me with Sherry Segers in Columbus, Ohio. She transcribed countless hours of conversation, and did most of it in the middle of the night.

Netter Hansen read every bit of this book, most of it more than once, and her suggestions along the way made every piece of it stronger. Robin Martin, Sherri Wolson, Linda McElroy, and Katie McCann tested recipes for me and provided helpful notes to ensure the success of every recipe in this book. Linda also read and copyedited for meeven when she was on vacation! Dawn Thomas, Kimberley Slobodian, and Diane de Ryss read the manuscript and so clearly heard my message; they were the ones who gave me the confidence to finally hit Send. Robin Martin not only managed to test almost every recipe in this book (many of them more than once), she also read the book in its entirety, all while running after and raising three small children. In her spare time she acted as my head cheerleader and primary snack provider.

Susan Roxborough first suggested that I pitch an idea to her at Sasquatch Books, and then had enough faith in me to champion the book. Managing editor Rachelle Long polished my manuscript until it shined, with help from eagle-eyed copy editors Kim Runciman and Lisa Gordanier. Susan also introduced me to Clare Barboza, whose beautiful photographs help bring these artisans, their food, and their stunning locales to life. And then designer Anna Goldstein put it all together in such a beautiful way, I couldnt be more proud of the final result.