Eduardo Machado - Tastes like Cuba : an exiles hunger for home

* Malanga is a starchy root vegetable with white flesh and a thick brown skin, related to the taro root. It can be found in most Latin supermarkets produce sections, although it is sometimes called yautia .

*Saltines or water crackers can be substituted if you cant find small Cuban galletas .

*If you cant find galleta crumbs, you can substitute regular cracker crumbs, or you can make your own: For 1 cups galleta crumbs, pulse 15 or so large galletas (more if using small galletas) in the bowl of a food processor until they make a fine meal. If you dont have a food processor, just put the galletas in a big zip-top bag and squeeze all the air out before you seal it. Crush the galletas usibefore you seal it. Crush the galletas using a rolling pin, breaking up any big pieces and rolling over the smaller ones until they make a fine meal.

*Look for bijol , or bija suprema , in the spice section of Latin grocery stores. Try to find the kind that has no MSG, or sazn in it. Check the ingredients. The best bijol has little more than annatto, spices, and trace amounts of starch or stabilizer.

*You may substitute granulated sugar, but I like turbinado because it reminds me of guarapo.

*We used red snapper in Cuba, but you may substitute any firm fish, like tilapia, roughy, or catfish.

*Kasseri is a sharp Greek sheeps milk cheese. If you cant find it, you may substitute pecorino or Parmesan.

** Calabasa pumpkin is a round, greenish-skinned tropical pumpkin. Its orange flesh is sweeter and faster cooking than a traditional pumpkin. They are very big, so they are usually sold in smaller pieces. Should you not find calabasas , butternut squash makes a fine substitute.

*Dont forget to wash your hands after handling the pepper. If you want to reduce the spiciness of the jalapeo, remove the seeds and inner membrane (which contain all the heat), using only the green flesh. Also, you may omit the jalapeno entirely.

*Fresh yuca is a long, brown-skinned root that can be found in most Latin supermarkets produce sections. If you cant find it fresh, frozen yuca is a wonderful alternative. It is already peeled, chunked, and partially cooked. If using frozen yuca , just start the recipe at step 2.

*I prefer smaller capers in a brine that has no preservatives (just salt, vinegar, and water).

*Manzanilla olives are small, green pitted olives stuffed with a tiny piece of sweet red pepper. coarsely chopped

*Manzanilla olives are small, green pitted olives stuffed with a tiny piece of sweet red pepper. coarsely chopped

*Store bought is fine, but make sure they are plain, not seasoned with Italian or other spices.

*Dont forget to wash your hands after handling the pepper. If you want to reduce the spiciness of the jalapeo, remove the seeds and inner membrane (which contain all the heat), using only the green flesh. Also, you may omit the jalapeo entirely.