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Becky Sue Epstein - Champagne: A Global History

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Becky Sue Epstein Champagne: A Global History
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From the smash of a bottle on the side of a new ship to the pop of the cork at a New Years Eve party champagne signals celebration, fun, and camaraderie all over the world. Bubbly, as we affectionately call it, is a symbol of luxury and decadence and the go-to drink whenever there is an important toast. This history from Becky Sue Epstein is a celebration of the worlds most celebratory drink.

Here, Epstein chronicles champagnes story, from the worlds first sparkling wine, produced in Limoux, Languedoc, in 1531 by monks at an abbey in Saint-Hilaire to the celebrities who made champagnes famous and continue to do so today from Dom Perignon to the widow Veuve Cliquot. Most important, Epstein fully explains the distinction between champagne and sparkling wine. In this informative chronicle, she answers whether French champagne is really better than other sparkling wines and elucidates the science behind that characteristic fizz and bubble. She takes the reader on a...

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CHAMPAGNE Edible Series Editor Andrew F Smith EDIBLE is a revolutionary - photo 1
CHAMPAGNE

Picture 2

Edible

Series Editor: Andrew F. Smith

EDIBLE is a revolutionary new series of books dedicated to food and drink that explores the rich history of cuisine. Each book reveals the global history and culture of one type of food or beverage.

Already published

Apple Erika Janik

Bread William Rubel

Cake Nicola Humble

Caviar Nichola Fletcher

Cheese Andrew Dalby

Chocolate Sarah Moss and
Alexander Badenoch

Lobster Elisabeth Townsend

Milk Hannah Velten

Olive Fabrizia Lanza

Pancake Ken Albala

Pie Janet Clarkson

Pizza Carol Helstosky

Potato Andrew F. Smith

Curry Colleen Taylor Sen

Dates Nawal Nasrallah

Hamburger Andrew F. Smith

Hot Dog Bruce Kraig

Ice Cream Laura B. Weiss

Sandwich Bee Wilson

Soup Janet Clarkson

Spices Fred Czarra

Tea Helen Saberi

Whiskey Kevin R. Kosar

Champagne

A Global History

Becky Sue Epstein

REAKTION BOOKS

Published by Reaktion Books Ltd

33 Great Sutton Street

London EC1V 0DX, UK

www.reaktionbooks.co.uk

First published 2011

Copyright Becky Sue Epstein 2011

The right of Becky Sue Epstein to be identified as author of this work
has been asserted by her in accordance with the Copyright, Designs &
Patents Act 1988.

All rights reserved

No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval
system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic,
mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior
permission of the publishers.

Page references in the Photo Acknowledgements and
Index match the printed edition of this book.

Printed and bound in China by C&C Offset Printing Co. Ltd

British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data

Epstein, Becky Sue, 1952

Champagne: a global history. (Edible)

1. Champagne (Wine) 2. Champagne (Wine) History.

I. Title II. Series

641.2 224-DC22

eISBN 9781861899637

Contents

Champagne A Global History - image 3

Bubbling Up to the Top:
Champagne and Other
Great Sparkling Wines

Champagne A Global History - image 4

In the month of June, right in the middle of the recent recession, the worlds longest champagne bar opened in London: 95.8 metres of confidence that travellers on the high-speed Eurostar train between London and Paris will continue to toast departures and arrivals in a celebratory manner with a glass of champagne. Champagne bars like New York Citys Flute and The Bubble Lounge are opening branches in San Francisco, London and Paris, while British department store Harvey Nichols recently launched a Belle poque champagne bar at its flagship Knightsbridge store in London.

Champagne houses regularly sponsor film events, adding celebrity endorsements such as actress Scarlett Johanssons for Mot et Chandon at the 2009 Tokyo Film Festival. In the past few years, Veuve Clicquot has collaborated with car designer Porsche and boat designer Riva on champagne cabinets and carrying cases. Piper-Heidsieck, with several top fashion designers, created sexy accoutrements like Christian Louboutins high-heeled glass slipper for sipping champagne, and Jean Paul Gaultiers red leather-bustier clad bottle. In 2008, Mot et Chandon commissioned designer Karl Lagerfeld to fashion a champagne glass for Dom Prignon based on super - model Claudia Schiffers breast an update of the shallow coupe glass supposedly designed in the shape of Marie Antoinettes breast. Often associated with actors and musicians, champagne makes news when a star endorses it or disses it, as in 2006 when rapper and style-maker Jay-Z initiated a boycott of Louis Roederers Cristal, which, until then, had been the champagne of choice for hip-hop artists and their fans.

Harvey Nichols recently opened Fifth Floor Champagne Bar in London Champagne - photo 5

Harvey Nichols recently opened Fifth Floor Champagne Bar in London.

Champagne continues to be the beverage that signals special occasions and celebrations, no matter what the climate or the economy is like in life as well as on screen. In films, James Bond famously quaffed only the finest of everything. Bollinger is known as 007s signature champagne, though he occasionally sipped vintage Dom Prignon. For a brief period Bond enjoyed Taittinger imitating his creator, Ian Fleming until a scene in 1963s From Russia With Love when poison was slipped into Tatiana Romanovas glass, at which point 007s relationship with that champagne also expired.

Originally drunk only by the wealthy nobility, champagne and other sparkling wines have now infiltrated much of the wine-drinking population and are automatically included in lifes milestones; seemingly, there cant be a wedding or anniversary celebration without them. Every sporting triumph requires jets of fizz to celebrate. New ships are christened with champagne before their maiden voyages, and it is joyously presented at the end of hot-air balloon rides. People around the globe cannot contemplate New Years Eve without plenty of bubbles.

Claudia Schiffer-inspired champagne glass created by Karl Lagerfeld for Dom - photo 6

Claudia Schiffer-inspired champagne glass, created by Karl Lagerfeld for Dom Prignon.

The first champagne-only bar in Paris at Le Dokhans Hotel carries over 50 - photo 7

The first champagne-only bar in Paris, at Le Dokhans Hotel, carries over 50 champagnes.

Modern rulers have sustained the tradition of celebrating with sparkling wine if not always with champagne. US president Barack Obama had 100 bottles of Italian sparkling wine served at a dinner on his inaugural weekend in 2009, while an American sparkler was on the menu for the luncheon following his inauguration ceremony.

Sparkling wines are highly valued all over the world. Why are these wines called sparkling wines? Because, though champagne is a sparkling wine, it is only one of many sparklingwines made in wine regions throughout the world. Champagne is the name for quality sparkling wines produced in the region of Champagne, about 100 miles east of Paris. Champagne is unquestionably the most famous sparkling wine. From the 1700s on, Champagnes producers have essentially branded the category of sparkling wine as their own. Champagne is so highly regarded that we tend to refer to all sparkling wines as champagnes even when they do not come from Champagne.

In theory, any sparkling wine can be as good or better than any champagne though the Champagne producers have been at it for so long that many of their sparkling wines are not only much more famous than sparkling wines from other regions, but are also excellent wines. To enhance their own identities, some quality sparkling wines from other countries have proprietary names. For instance, the sparkling wine originating in Catalonia, Spain, is called cava; northern Italy has prosecco and asti (among others); while sekt is a popular sparkler in Germany and Austria. In all these regions the sparkling wines are made primarily with regionally native grapes. Though sparkling beverages can be made from many things, this book limits the discussion to wines made with traditional wine grapes (

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