Council of Fashion Designers of America - American Runway: 75 Years of Fashion and the Front Row

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Table of Contents

Guide

75 YEARS OF FASHION AND THE FRONT ROW

AMERICAN

RUNWAY

THE COUNCIL OF FASHION DESIGNERS OF AMERICA

PRESENTS

AMERICAN

RUNWAY

75 YEARS OF FASHION AND THE FRONT ROW

BOOTH MOORE

AND THE COUNCIL OF FASHION DESIGNERS OF AMERICA

Foreword by Diane von Furstenberg

ABRAMS, NEW YORK

Opposite: New York Fashion Week, September 2004. Following spread: Carolina Herrera Fall 2008 show, February 2008.

5: New York Fashion Week, February 2005.

The American runway is like a mosaiccolorful, diverse,

democratic, exciting, and always evolving.

It wasnt until seventy-five years ago that Eleanor Lambert,

who was a publicist and later became the founder of the

Council of Fashion Designers of America, decided that it was

time to promote the talented American designers who had,

until that point, been hidden in the back of very successful

Seventh Avenue fashion companies.

Once Lambert launched Press Week in 1943, the era of the

American designer started. The American fashion show was

born, and Norman Norell, James Galanos, Bill Blass, and

Adolfo became celebrities.

Fashion shows were very different then. They happened

twice a yearspring and falland were mostly for trade,

taking place in showrooms and hotel ballrooms. Unlike

anywhere else in the world, America had thousands of depart-

ment stores at the time. Buyers from the all over the country

and regional newspaper editors from the

Boston Globe

, the

San Francisco Chronicle,

and the

Dallas Morning News

came

to New York to cover the new collections.

Womens Wear

Daily

, the fashion trade bible, could make or break your

career, and editor-in-chief John Fairchild was the most-

feared person in the industry.

By the early 70s, the American runway had distinguished

itself through the designers modern sportswear vision. Paris

remained the home of haute couture, with the exception of

Yves Saint Laurent, whose Rive Gauche ready-to-wear was

slowly beginning to change that.

When I did my first fashion show, it was still very intimate.

We did shows for stores, buyers, buying offi

ces, and press, and

listed them on the Fashion Calendar.

In 1970, I introduced dresses at a small, fairly low-key fashion

show in the banquet room of the Gotham Hotel. I remember

showing the wrap dress in animal prints on Jerry Hall and

Apollonia van Ravenstein at the Pierre Hotels Cotillion

Room in 1974.

As models like Jerry, Apollonia, Pat Cleveland, Iman, and

Janice Dickinson became famous, fashion shows turned

into bigger and bigger press events, and celebrities wanted

to attend. By the time of supermodels Naomi Campbell,

Christy Turlington, and Linda Evangelista, the shows were

big entertainment productions created by the designers

with event producers, set designers, and some of the best

hair stylists and makeup artists. Designers will agree with

me that fashion shows became geared more toward publicity

than buyers.

More recently, the intent of fashion shows has shifted again.

With the digital revolution came social media and a new

group of influencers. These game-changers disseminate the

newest trends to the world with a simple click on their smart-

phone once the models step onto the runway. The fashion

industry is still grappling with the concept of immediacy and

adjusting to this new reality in different ways. We are collec-

tively riding the tsunami and figuring out what the fashion

show of the future should be.

We are in the era of disruption, but no matter where the

American runway is headed, it will always be colorful, diverse,

democratic, and exciting, just like the mosaic that is Amer-

ican fashion.

FOREWORD

by Diane von Furstenberg, Chairwoman of the CFDA

Opposite: Diane von Furstenberg, 1976.

Marc Jacobs: One Night Only! read the marquee outside

New York Citys Ziegfeld Theatre on

September 17, 2015.

Jacobs was staging a fashion show tribute to American cinema

in one of the last great movie palaces. The show started on the

sidewalk, where an all-star cast of models and celebrities

walked the red carpet, including

Kendall Jenner, Bella Hadid,

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