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Council of Fashion Designers of America - American Runway: 75 Years of Fashion and the Front Row

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American Runway: an introduction -- Putting American fashion on the map -- The rise of American sportswear -- Getting organized -- Strengthening the American position -- The show business of Fashion Week -- Behind the scenes -- In their shoes -- The rise of the show spectacular -- Most memorable moments -- The show must go on -- Getting social -- The future of the runway.

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Table of Contents
Guide
75 YEARS OF FASHION AND THE FRONT ROW AMERICAN RUNWAY - photo 1
75 YEARS OF FASHION AND THE FRONT ROW AMERICAN RUNWAY - photo 2
75 YEARS OF FASHION AND THE FRONT ROW
AMERICAN
RUNWAY
THE COUNCIL OF FASHION DESIGNERS OF AMERICA PRESENTS - photo 3
THE COUNCIL OF FASHION DESIGNERS OF AMERICA PRESENTS - photo 4
THE COUNCIL OF FASHION DESIGNERS OF AMERICA PRESENTS - photo 5
THE COUNCIL OF FASHION DESIGNERS OF AMERICA PRESENTS AMERICAN RUNWAY 75 - photo 6
THE COUNCIL OF FASHION DESIGNERS OF AMERICA
PRESENTS
AMERICAN RUNWAY 75 YEARS OF FASHION AND THE FRONT ROW BOOTH MOORE AND THE - photo 7
AMERICAN RUNWAY 75 YEARS OF FASHION AND THE FRONT ROW BOOTH MOORE AND THE - photo 8
AMERICAN
RUNWAY
75 YEARS OF FASHION AND THE FRONT ROW
BOOTH MOORE
AND THE COUNCIL OF FASHION DESIGNERS OF AMERICA
Foreword by Diane von Furstenberg
ABRAMS, NEW YORK
Opposite New York Fashion Week September 2004 Following spr - photo 9
Opposite New York Fashion Week September 2004 Following spread Carolina - photo 10
Opposite New York Fashion Week September 2004 Following spread Carolina - photo 11
Opposite New York Fashion Week September 2004 Following spread Carolina - photo 12
Opposite: New York Fashion Week, September 2004. Following spread: Carolina Herrera Fall 2008 show, February 2008.
5: New York Fashion Week, February 2005.
The American runway is like a mosaiccolorful diverse - photo 13
The American runway is like a mosaiccolorful diverse democratic exciting - photo 14
The American runway is like a mosaiccolorful diverse democratic exciting - photo 15
The American runway is like a mosaiccolorful diverse democratic exciting - photo 16
The American runway is like a mosaiccolorful, diverse,
democratic, exciting, and always evolving.
It wasnt until seventy-five years ago that Eleanor Lambert,
who was a publicist and later became the founder of the
Council of Fashion Designers of America, decided that it was
time to promote the talented American designers who had,
until that point, been hidden in the back of very successful
Seventh Avenue fashion companies.
Once Lambert launched Press Week in 1943, the era of the
American designer started. The American fashion show was
born, and Norman Norell, James Galanos, Bill Blass, and
Adolfo became celebrities.
Fashion shows were very different then. They happened
twice a yearspring and falland were mostly for trade,
taking place in showrooms and hotel ballrooms. Unlike
anywhere else in the world, America had thousands of depart-
ment stores at the time. Buyers from the all over the country
and regional newspaper editors from the
Boston Globe
, the
San Francisco Chronicle,
and the
Dallas Morning News
came
to New York to cover the new collections.
Womens Wear
Daily
, the fashion trade bible, could make or break your
career, and editor-in-chief John Fairchild was the most-
feared person in the industry.
By the early 70s, the American runway had distinguished
itself through the designers modern sportswear vision. Paris
remained the home of haute couture, with the exception of
Yves Saint Laurent, whose Rive Gauche ready-to-wear was
slowly beginning to change that.
When I did my first fashion show, it was still very intimate.
We did shows for stores, buyers, buying offi
ces, and press, and
listed them on the Fashion Calendar.
In 1970, I introduced dresses at a small, fairly low-key fashion
show in the banquet room of the Gotham Hotel. I remember
showing the wrap dress in animal prints on Jerry Hall and
Apollonia van Ravenstein at the Pierre Hotels Cotillion
Room in 1974.
As models like Jerry, Apollonia, Pat Cleveland, Iman, and
Janice Dickinson became famous, fashion shows turned
into bigger and bigger press events, and celebrities wanted
to attend. By the time of supermodels Naomi Campbell,
Christy Turlington, and Linda Evangelista, the shows were
big entertainment productions created by the designers
with event producers, set designers, and some of the best
hair stylists and makeup artists. Designers will agree with
me that fashion shows became geared more toward publicity
than buyers.
More recently, the intent of fashion shows has shifted again.
With the digital revolution came social media and a new
group of influencers. These game-changers disseminate the
newest trends to the world with a simple click on their smart-
phone once the models step onto the runway. The fashion
industry is still grappling with the concept of immediacy and
adjusting to this new reality in different ways. We are collec-
tively riding the tsunami and figuring out what the fashion
show of the future should be.
We are in the era of disruption, but no matter where the
American runway is headed, it will always be colorful, diverse,
democratic, and exciting, just like the mosaic that is Amer-
ican fashion.
FOREWORD
by Diane von Furstenberg, Chairwoman of the CFDA
Opposite: Diane von Furstenberg, 1976.
Marc Jacobs One Night Only read the marquee outside New York Citys Ziegfeld - photo 17
Marc Jacobs One Night Only read the marquee outside New York Citys Ziegfeld - photo 18
Marc Jacobs: One Night Only! read the marquee outside
New York Citys Ziegfeld Theatre on
September 17, 2015.
Jacobs was staging a fashion show tribute to American cinema
in one of the last great movie palaces. The show started on the
sidewalk, where an all-star cast of models and celebrities
walked the red carpet, including
Kendall Jenner, Bella Hadid,
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