Fodors Chicago

A century ago, poet Carl Sandburg called Chicago stormy, husky, brawling/city of the Big Shoulders in an eponymous poem that still echoes city life today. Indeed, Chicago is stormier and huskier than ever, with political scandals breaking more frequently than the El train circles the Loop. But its also cleaner, greener, and more urbane than expectedwith bold new architecture, abundant green space, and a vibrant dining scene. So what will you find when you visit: a rough-and-tumble Midwestern town or a sophisticated metropolis? The answer is both, and much, much more.

The iconic skyline dominates postcards and tourist snapshotsand for good reason. Architecture fans are excited to see the city that Daniel Burnham, Louis Sullivan, and Frank Lloyd Wright built, but modern development has also brought new energy. Recent years have seen the birth of the Millennium Park lakefront, the 92-story Trump Tower Chicago, and the innovative Aqua, an 82-story tower with balconies designed to look like waves. Development doesnt come without controversy, however. Some older buildings have been torn down to make way for the new, and preservationists decry each loss of a historic building to the wrecking ball.

Speaking of controversy, Chicagos political scene has witnessed the highest highs and the lowest lows in recent years. The high point: when about a quarter-million Chicagoans of every age, shape, and ethnicity gathered downtown to celebrate Illinois Senator Barack Obamas historic presidential election in 2008. The low point: pick one. Governor (and Chicago resident) Rod Blagojevichs 2011 conviction for trying to sell Obamas vacated Senate seat? Illinois Representative Jesse Jackson Jr.s 2013 guilty plea to criminal charges of diverting campaign funds for personal use? Cook County Commissioner William Beaverss 2013 conviction for tax evasion? The Associated Press reported that there were 1,531 convictions for public corruption here between 1976 and 2010, the most of any district in the country.

Visitors expecting deep-dish pizza and Italian beef sandwiches wont be disappointed, but they will have to elevate their expectations a hundredfold. Chicago isdare we say it?the most exciting city in the country for dining right now. It seems like theres a Food & Wine Best New Chef or Top Chef winner on every block. Sample cutting-edge cuisine from chef Grant Achatz at Next and Alinea, Homaro Cantu at Moto, and Stephanie Izard at Girl & the Goat. Or just spend your entire visit in Logan Square, where youll have your pick of Lula Caf, Longman & Eagle, and Belly Shack. Satisfied yet? We didnt even mention the hundreds of neighborhood ethnic eateries that let you dine across the globe without ever leaving the city.

Mayor Richard M. Daleys 22-year reign was a period of incredible resurgence for the city, complete with environmental development, sustainable building, and a failed Olympics bid. But it wasnt always diplomatic or even democratic, and the jurys still out on his replacement, another tough-talking Democratthis time Obamas former chief of staff, Rahm Emanuel. His administrations hard-line tactics led to a highly contentious teachers union strike in 2012, and kicked off 2013 with an unpopular decision to close 54 schools, the most in the citys history. The economy is still flailing, and devastating gun violence plagues the citys South and West sides.

Sure, Chicagoans like to complainabout the weather, about our sports teams, and especially about our politicians. But if an out-of-towner dares to diss our beloved city, you can bet there will be fireworks bigger than the ones over Navy Pier in summer. Sandburg was right again about Chicago when he wrote, come and show me another city with lifted head singing/ so proud to be alive and coarse and strong and cunning.

When to Go

June, September, and October are mild and sunny. November through March the temperature ranges from crisp to bitter, April and May can fluctuate between cold/soggy and bright/warm, and July and August can either be perfect or serve up the deadly combo of high heat and high humidity. That said, the only thing certain about Chicagos weather, according to locals, is that it can change in an instant. If you head to Chicago in warmer months, youll be able to catch some of the fantastic outdoor festivals; during the holiday season the citys decked out in lights.

Getting Around

Chicago has an excellent network of buses and trains, which are collectively called the El (for elevated, which many of them are). The combination should bring you within mile of any place youd like to go. Those accustomed to cities will likely be comfortable on any train, anytime. Others may want to take extra caution after 11 pm. Buses are almost always safe; there are several express buses running from downtown to destinations like the Museum of Science and Industry.

As of this writing, the fare for the bus is $2, the train is $2.25, and a transfer is 25 with a Transit Card; if youre paying cash, all rides are $2.25. Travelers may want to get a Ventra ticket at airport CTA stations or any visitor center.