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Clarke - A House in Fez: Building a Life in the Ancient Heart of Morocco

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    A House in Fez: Building a Life in the Ancient Heart of Morocco
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A House in Fez: Building a Life in the Ancient Heart of Morocco: summary, description and annotation

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The Medina -- the Old City -- of Fez is the best-preserved, medieval walled city in the world. Inside this vibrant Moroccan community, internet cafes and mobile phones coexist with a maze of donkey-trod alleyways, thousand-year-old sewer systems, and Arab-style houses, gorgeous with intricate, if often shabby, mosaic work.
While vacationing in Morocco, Suzanna Clarke and her husband, Sandy, are inspired to buy a dilapidated, centuries-old riad in Fez with the aim of restoring it to its original splendor, using only traditional craftsmen and handmade materials. So begins a remarkable adventure that is bewildering, at times hilarious, and ultimately immensely rewarding.
A House in Fezchronicles their meticulous restoration, but it is also a journey into Moroccan customs and lore and a window into the lives of its people as friendships blossom. When the riad is finally returned to its former glory, Suzanna finds she has not just restored an old house, but also her soul.

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ABOVE LEFT A view over the Fez Medina with the green-tiled roof of the - photo 1

ABOVE LEFT A view over the Fez Medina, with the green-tiled roof of the Karaouiyine Mosque in the foreground

ABOVE RIGHT The downstairs salon on the day we purchased the home

BELOW The moment of sale: the previous owners of the house accept the cash

ABOVE LEFT Looking through the Bab Bou Jeloud into the Medina ABOVE RIGHT A cat - photo 2

ABOVE LEFT Looking through the Bab Bou Jeloud into the Medina ABOVE RIGHT A cat - photo 3

ABOVE LEFT Looking through the Bab Bou Jeloud into the Medina

ABOVE RIGHT A cat makes itself at home outside a shop in the Medina

BELOW The dye vats at the Chouwara tanneries

TOP One of Fezs last surviving brocade makers MIDDLE Our neigh - photo 4

TOP One of Fezs last surviving brocade makers MIDDLE Our neighbors children - photo 5

TOP One of Fezs last surviving brocade makers MIDDLE Our neighbors children - photo 6

TOP One of Fezs last surviving brocade makers MIDDLE Our neighbors children - photo 7

TOP One of Fezs last surviving brocade makers

MIDDLE Our neighbors children making the most of the daily donkey deliveries

LAST The courtyard, for many months our living room, was in constant chaos

TOP Having lunch with Si Mohamed MIDDLE The decapo ladies Fatima and Halima - photo 8

TOP Having lunch with Si Mohamed MIDDLE The decapo ladies Fatima and Halima - photo 9

TOP Having lunch with Si Mohamed MIDDLE The decapo ladies Fatima and Halima - photo 10

TOP Having lunch with Si Mohamed

MIDDLE The decapo ladies, Fatima and Halima, whose work revealed the beauty of the cedar beneath up to seven layers of paint

LAST The first of many deliveries of lime and sand that were to continue for months

LEFT Offerings being taken to the saints shrine during the Festival of Moulay - photo 11

LEFT Offerings being taken to the saints shrine during the Festival of Moulay - photo 12

LEFT Offerings being taken to the saints shrine during the Festival of Moulay Idriss

ABOVE Genghis the chameleon in the orange tree

BELOW The kitchen stripped bare. The outline of the old window shows where it once joined the house next door

ABOVE Putting zellij on the kitchen floor ABOVE Tigger with the date basket we - photo 13

ABOVE Putting zellij on the kitchen floor ABOVE Tigger with the date basket we - photo 14

ABOVE Putting zellij on the kitchen floor ABOVE Tigger with the date basket we - photo 15

ABOVE Putting zellij on the kitchen floor

ABOVE Tigger with the date basket we discovered behind a false wall

BELOW The kitchen, finished at last

ABOVE A whirling dervish from Syria performs during the Fez Festival of World - photo 16

ABOVE A whirling dervish from Syria performs during the Fez Festival of World - photo 17

ABOVE A whirling dervish from Syria performs during the Fez Festival of World Sacred Music

BELOW left A late-niaght Sufi performance during the Fez Festival of World Sacred Music

BELOW right After months of work, the courtyard is finally complete

ABOVE The finished downstairs salon The door at the end leads to the main - photo 18

ABOVE The finished downstairs salon The door at the end leads to the main - photo 19

ABOVE The finished downstairs salon The door at the end leads to the main - photo 20

ABOVE The finished downstairs salon. The door at the end leads to the main bathroom, the door on the right to the courtyard

BELOW LEFT The upstairs salon, two weeks before guests were due

BELOW TOP RIGHT The same salon, completed at midnight the day before the guests arrived

BELOW LOWER RIGHT The wonderful Riad Zany workers, clockwise from bottom left: Abdul Kader, Si Mohamed, Mustapha, Mernissi, Abdul Ramin, Si Mohamed Two, Fatima, Halima, Noureddine

A House in Fez The names of some pe - photo 21

A House in Fez The names of some people in the text have been changed to - photo 22

A House in Fez The names of some people in the text have been changed to - photo 23

A House in Fez The names of some people in the text have been changed to - photo 24

A House in Fez

The names of some people in the text have been changed to protect their privacy.

A House in Fez SUZANNA CLARKE A House in Fez - photo 25

A House in Fez

SUZANNA CLARKE A House in Fez Pocket Books A Division of Simon - photo 26

SUZANNA CLARKE

A House in Fez

Pocket Books A Division of Simon Schuster Inc 1230 Avenue of the Americas - photo 27

Picture 28
Pocket Books
A Division of Simon & Schuster, Inc.
1230 Avenue of the Americas
New York, NY 10020
www.SimonandSchuster.com

Copyright 2007 by Suzanna Clarke

Photographs copyright 2007 by Suzanna Clarke,
with the exception of page 4 (top) of photo insert
copyright Sandy McCutcheon

Originally published in Australia in 2007 by the Penguin Group (Australia)
Published by arrangement with the Penguin Group (Australia)

All rights reserved, including the right to reproduce
this book or portions thereof in any form whatsoever.
For information address Pocket Books Subsidiary Rights Department,
1230 Avenue of the Americas, New York, NY 10020

First Pocket Books trade paperback edition November 2008

POCKET and colophon are registered trademarks of Simon & Schuster, Inc.

For information about special discounts for bulk purchases,

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