Richard Barber - The Companion Guide to Gascony and the Dordogne (Companion Guides)

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title

:

The Companion Guide to Gascony and the Dordogne Companion Guides

author

:

Barber, Richard W.

publisher

:

Companion Guides

isbn10 | asin

:

1900639270

print isbn13

:

9781900639279

ebook isbn13

:

9780585182193

language

:

English

subject

Dordogne River Valley (France)--Guidebooks, Gascony (France)--Guidebooks.

publication date

:

1999

lcc

:

DC611.B66B37 1999eb

ddc

:

914.47204839

subject

:

Dordogne River Valley (France)--Guidebooks, Gascony (France)--Guidebooks.

The Companion Guide to Gascony and the Dordogne

THE COMPANION GUIDES

It is the aim of these guides to provide a Companion in the person of the author, who knows intimately the places and people of whom he writes, and is able to communicate this knowledge and affection to his readers. It is hoped that the text and pictures will aid them in their preparations and in their travels, and will help them remember on their return.

BURGUNDY THE COUNTRY ROUND PARIS DEVON EDINBURGH AND THE BORDER COUNTRY FLORENCE GREEK ISLANDS LAKE DISTRICT LONDON MADRID AND CENTRAL SPAIN MAINLAND GREECE NEW YORK ROME SICILY SOUTH OF FRANCE VENICE

In preparation
KENT AND SUSSEX PARIS

The Companion Guide to Gascony and the Dordogne

Richard Barber

COMPANION GUIDES

Copyright Richard Barber, 1977, 1991, 1999

All Rights Reserved. Except as permitted under current legislation no part of this work may be photocopied, stored in a retrieval system, published, performed in public, adapted, broadcast, transmitted, recorded or reproduced in any form or by any means, without the prior permission of the copyright owner

First published 1977 as
The Companion Guide to South-West France
Revised edition 1991

Reissued 1996
Companion Guides, Woodbridge
New edition 1999

ISBN 1 900639 27 0

The publishers and author have done their best to ensure the accuracy and currency of all the information in The Companion Guide to Gascony and the Dordogne. However, they can accept no responsibility for any loss, injury, or inconvenience sustained by any traveller as a result of information or advice contained in the guide.

Companion Guides is an imprint of Boydell & Brewer Ltd
PO Box 9, Woodbridge, Suffolk IP12 3DF, UK
and of Boydell & Brewer Inc.
PO Box 41026, Rochester, NY 14604-4126, USA
website: http://www.boydell.co.uk

A catalogue record for this book is available
from the British Library

Printed in Great Britain by
St Edmundsbury Press Ltd, Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk

Contents

List of illustrations

vi

Maps and plans

viii

Preface

ix

Acknowledgements

xiii

1. Poitiers

2. South-East Poitou

3. South-West Poitou and Aunis

4. Saintonge and the Ile d'Olron

5. Cognac

6. Bordeaux

7. The Mdoc and the wines of south-west France

8. Angoulme and the Angoumois

9. Limoges and the Limousin

10. Prigueux and Western Prigord

11. Les Eyzies and the Vzre Valley

12. The Dordogne Valley: Beaulieu to Sarlat

13. The Dordogne Valley: Sarlat to Bergerac

14. Quercy

15. The Pays d'Albret, Agen and Moissac

16. The Gers and Pau

17. Bayonne to Bordeaux: the Landes

18. Western Guyenne

Appendix 1. Food

Appendix 2. Bibliography

Appendix 3. Opening Hours

Index

List of Illustrations

1
Poitiers Cathedral Faade (French Government Tourist Office FGTO)

2
Poitiers Palais de Justice (Belzeaux-Zodiaque)

3
Poitiers Capital, Eglise de St Hilaire (Belzeaux-Zodiaque)

4
Poitiers Cathedral stained glass (Author)

5
Chauvigny Eglise de St Pierre (FGTO)

6
St Savin-sur-Gartempe (FGTO)

7
La Cotinire, Ile d'Olron (FGTO)

8
Aulnay Eglise de St Pierre (FGTO)

9
Saintes Roman arch (FGTO)

10
Talmont, near Blaye (FGTO)

11
Fenioux the lanterne des morts (Belzeaux-Zodiaque)

12
Lusignan the chteau (miniature from the Trs Riches Heures du Duc de Berry: Muse Cond, Chantilly: photo Giraudon)

13
La Roche-Courbon the chteau (FGTO)

14
The tomb of St Junien (Belzeaux-Zodiaque)

15
St Michel d'Entraygues near Angoulme tympanum (Belzeaux-Zodiaque)

16
Angoulme the Cathedral (FGTO)

17
Bordeaux the Bourse (FGTO)

18
Mdoc landscape (FGTO)

19
Wine labels (Sotheby and Co)

20
Hautefort the chteau (FGTO)

21
Rochechouart the chteau (FGTO)

22
Cressac, near Barbezieux fresco (Archives photographiques, Paris)

23
Limoges porcelain (FGTO)

24
St Lon-sur-Vzre (Zodiaque)

25
Fourneau du Diable carving (Muse des Eyzies: FGTO)

26
Lascaux cave paintings (FGTO)

27
Rocamadour (A. F. Kersting)

28
The portal at Souillac (Zodiaque)

29
and 30 Beynac two views of the chteau (FGTO)

31
Monpazier the market square (FGTO)

32
Chteau de Montal, interior (FGTO)

33
Cahors the pont Valentr (FGTO)

34
Cahors Cathedral north door (Dieuzaide-Zodiaque)

35
Moissac south door (Dieuzaide-Zodiaque)

-7

36
Sarlat (FGTO)

37
Pau the old quarter (FGTO)

38
Moirax, near Agen capital in the church (Zodiaque)

39
Auch Cathedral choir stalls (FGTO)

List of Maps

Poitiers

Map 1: Poitou

-25

Charroux: Abbaye St Sauveur

La Rochelle

Map 2: Saintonge

Map 3: Cognac

Bordeaux

Map 4: The Mdoc

Map 5: The Angoumois

Angoulme

Map 6: Limoges and the Limousin

Map 7: The Dordogne Valley

-9

Map 8: The Dordogne and the Lot valley

Map 9: The Pays d'Albret, Agen and Moissac

Agen

Map 10: The Gers

Pau

Map 11: The Atlantic Coast: Bayonne to Bordeaux

Bayonne

Map 12: Western Guyenne

Preface

The south-west of France offers as much variety as any ordinary traveller could wish for; its monuments and remains range from darkest pre-history at Les Eyzies to post-war architecture at Royan, its landscapes from the smiling green of the Dordogne valley to the empty expanses of the Landes coast, its cooking from the seafood of the Atlantic to the country produce of the Prigord. But certain characteristics predominate the countryside and country towns, the castles and churches, the river valleys and villages. The seeker after the baroque or after fashionable cities or resorts must go elsewhere. South-west France has changed relatively little since the end of the Middle Ages: a static population, no great industrial revolution, a pattern of farming that has remained much the same.

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