Also in the series:
Buenos Aires by Jason Wilson
Oxford by David Horan
Mexico City by Nick Caistor
Rome by Jonathan Boardman
Madrid by Elizabeth Nash
Venice by Martin Garrett
Lisbon by Paul Buck
Havana by Claudia Lightfoot
New York City by Eric Homberger
Brussels by Andr de Vries
Prague by Richard Burton
Calcutta by Krishna Dutta
Edinburgh by Donald Campbell
San Francisco by Mick Sinclair
Cambridge by Martin Garrett
Helsinki by Neil Kent
Kingston by David Howard
Athens by Michael Llewellyn Smith
Istanbul by Pater Clark
Hamburg by Matthew Jefferies
First published in 2014 by
INTERLINK BOOKS
An imprint of Interlink Publishing Group, Inc.
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Text copyright Kaye Whiteman, 2014
Published simultaneously in the United Kingdom by Signal Books
All rights reserved. The whole of this work, including all text and illustrations, is protected by copyright. No parts of this work may be loaded, stored, manipulated, reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying and recording, or by any information, storage and retrieval system without prior written permission from the publisher, on behalf of the copyright owner.
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data available
ISBN 978-1-56656-919-4
Cover image: Lolade Adewuyi
Illustrations: Lolade Adewuyi pp. 81, 109, 209, 246, 251; Armet Francis p. 99; courtesy Kaye Whiteman pp. 83, 121, 147, 158, 179, 192, 213; Wikipedia Commons pp. i, 11, 21, 54, 72, 134, 140, 166, 173, 220, 235, 240; drawings by Nicki Averill pp. 25, 46, 51, 65, 69, 72, 138, 223, 228; maps by Sebastian Ballard
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Contents
Chapter One
T HE S TORY OF L AGOS
E VOLUTION OF A M ULTI-ETHNIC G ENE P OOL
Origins: Ogunfunminire, Olofin and the Idejo (1); The First
Portuguese Contact (2); The Benin Imprint and Eko (3);
Akinsemoyin and the Coming of the Portuguese (4); The Early
Nineteenth-century Context: The Ending of the Slave Trade and the
Yoruba Wars (7); Behind the British Intervention: The Role of
Palmerston (9); 1851-61: From the Consulate to the Treaty of
Cession (13); Sierra Leoneans and Brazilians: Saros and Amaros (18);
The Growing Gene Pool (19); City of Religions (21); The 1850s to
the 1890s: The British Become Colonial (25); The Modern
Melting-pot (30); The Status of Lagos: Crown Colony to State (32);
The Rise and Fall of Politics: The Move to Abuja (34)
Chapter Two
T HE T OPOGRAPHY OF L AGOS
I SLAND AND M AINLAND
The Ambivalent Role of the Bar: Barrier and Entry Point (35);
Burtons Lagos (38); E. D. Morels Lagos (39); Two Worlds: The
Island and the Mainland (42); Lagos Island: Isale Eko and the Iga
Idunganran (42); The Marina and the Business District (43); Ikoyi:
the McGregor Canal to Banana Island (47); Victoria Island: the
Elite Slum (48); Lekki: Unrestrained Expansion? (49); The
Mainland: Another Mind Concept (51); The Ever-present but
Under-used Lagoon (54); Bridges and Motorways (56); The Julius
Berger Phenomenon (57)
Chapter Three
C HANGING S OCIETY AND THE L OOK OF THE C ITY
The Imprint of Change (59); Victorian Lagos (60); The Rise of
Racism (61); The Brazilian Imprint (64); Railway Trains and Motor
Cars (67); The Lagos Steam Tramway (68); The Airports (69); The
Population Explosion (70); Official Buildings (71); Commercial
Buildings (74); Merchants and Entrepreneurs: The Liverpool of West
Africa? (77); The Dream of a Manhattan of Africa (79); Roads,
Markets and Malls (82)
Chapter Four
A T RUE C ITY OF THE I MAGINATION : L AGOS IN L ITERATURE
The First Nigerian Writing (90); The Burgeoning of the
Newspapers (91); The Fiction Writers: The First Generation (92);
Ken Saro-Wiwa (93); Soyinka: The City as Masquerade (95); Urban
Prototypes and the Next Generation of Writers: Okri, Habila,
Abani (97); Bar Beach and Maroko (98); Lagos of the Poets (101);
Civil War, Oil Boom, Military Rule (102); The Two Cultures
Syndrome (103); Lagos Pidgin (104); Outside Perspectives (105); The
Journalist as a Hero in Nigerian Fiction and Non-fiction (107); The
Guides: Dark Tourism or Moving to Normalcy? (113)
Chapter Five
M USIC, F ILM , A RT AND THE H AVENS IN THE W ILDERNESS
Sakara, Asiko, Juju and Highlife (115); The Heyday of Highlife (119);
The Growth of the Venues (122); The Night Club as Metaphor (125);
The Kakadu (127); Chapmans and Guinness (128); The Nollywood
Phenomenon (129); Havens in the Wilderness (132); The Case of
Nimbus (135); The Slender Plant of Heritage (137)
Chapter Six
S TORIES TO R EMEMBER: A S ELECTION OF E PISODES IN THE C ITY S H ISTORY
The Lagos Consulate 1851 to 1861: The British Takeover in Slow
Motion: (1) 1851: Gunboat Diplomacy (141); (2) 1861: The
Crunch (144); The Baiting of Lord Lugard (146); The Prince of
Wales Visit, 1925 (148); Drama at the Bristol Hotel, 1947 (149);
The Booing of the Northerners, 1953 (150); Independence Day (and
Night), October 1960 (151); The 1963 Treason Trial (152); Season of
Coups, 1966 (153); Episode from a City in Wartime, 1967 (156);
The Biafran Surrender as Seen in Lagos, 1970 (157); The All-African
Games of 1973 (158); Assassination on Bank Road, 1976 (159); The
Undoing of Sir Martin LeQuesne, 1976 (160); Ominous 1983 (161);
The Dele Giwa Killing, 1986 (162); The Orkar Coup, 1990 (163);
The January 2002 Explosions at the Ikeja Barracks (164); Voting in
Lagos, 2007 (164)
Chapter Seven
T HE L ONG S HADOW OF FESTAC
Colonial Symbols (167); Aftermath (172)
Chapter Eight
P ROMINENT P ERSONALITIES OF L AGOS
The Twentieth Century (188)
Chapter Nine
F ELA A NIKULAPO -K UTI : A RCHETYPAL L AGOS B OY
Legend and Legacy (218)
Chapter Ten
S TREETS OF THE I MAGINATION : E VERYDAY M YSTERIES OF THE C ITY
Changing Names (221); Ikoyi (222); Awolowo Road (225); Broad
Street and the Marina (228); Igbosere Road/Bamgbose Street (229);
Ahmadu Bello Way (230); Apapa, Ajegunle, the Badagry Road (232);
Yaba, Ikeja, Surulere (234); Mile Two and Amuwo Odofin (238)
Chapter Eleven
T HE F UTURE C ITY?
Delirious Lagos (241); Images of a City (243); One of the Best
Kept Secrets in Africa (245); A Theory of Lagos? (247); From
Tinubu to Fashola (249); Mega-city or World City? (251)
T REATY OF C ESSION OF A UGUST 1861
Foreword by Femi Okunnu
When in early February 2012 Kaye Whiteman proposed to me in London (a few days before the end of my holidays) that I should write the foreword to Lagos: A Cultural and Historical Companion , I thought momentarily of the punishing program ahead of me in Lagos. I was nonetheless persuaded that it was a challenge I could not refuse. Kaye gave me a very tight deadline for when the foreword was needed.