Greg Benchwick - Cancun, Cozumel & The Yucatan

Despite development, the natural beauty of the chalkboard-flat Yucatn Peninsula abides. The ethereal coo of the motmot still reverberates overhead, while below continue to writhe the insects and creepy-crawlies that keep this scrub-jungle land renewed year after year. And deep below, in the realm of Ah Puch (god of the underworld), gurgle freshwater rivers that worm their way through massive limestone caverns all the way to the perfect waters of the Caribbean and the Gulf. Its an adventure-lovers paradise, with tremendous snorkeling and diving right outside your door, an amazing array of age-old Maya ruins, and enough sun, champagne-perfect sand and glimmering clear aquamarine waters to please even the most discerning of beach bums.

It is these crystal-clear waters and the six-million plus visitors they draw each year that drive the regions culture and economy. So when H1N1 (better know as swine flu) hit the region in 2009, well, they had the makings of a veritable economic meltdown: tourism figures across the peninsula dropped by as much as 30%. And while the over-hyped fear of swine flu seemed to wane in the closing part of that year, it appeared unlikely that the resorts of Cancn and the Riviera Maya would see much of a rebound in visitation quickly.

The global recession also affected the regions economy. Less money in worldwide coffers meant less manufacturing in the burgeoning maquiladoras (low-paying, export-only factories) sprouting up around Mrida, and fewer tourism dollars for the hotels, restaurants and tour operators scattered across the region.

With drug violence hitting an all-time high in Mexicos northern border states and Mexican President Felipe Caldern mobilizing the military across the nation to bring the fight to the traffickers some tourists have cancelled their Mexico travel plans all together. But while Cancn does see its fair share of drug trafficking, the region has largely managed to escape the violence associated with the drug trade in other parts of the nation. About the only signs youll see that Cancn is a transhipment point for cocaine are occasional military checkpoints as you leave town. The good news is that there are no reports of tourists being affected by drug trafficking in the region, and if you take the same precautionary steps you would in any other big city, you will be safe wherever you go on the Yucatn Peninsula.

As always, immigration and poverty are hot-button topics being discussed across the peninsula. Its not just immigration to the US which slowed dramatically on the heels of the recession its also about immigrants coming from Central America seeking work or a safe haven from the growing gang violence and rampant poverty plaguing the northern states of the isthmus.

While the peninsula saw very few large-scale hurricanes in 2008 and 2009, it continues to dig itself out after the massive damage inflicted by Dean in 2007 and Wilma in 2005. Cancn has even put forward plans to dredge coastal waters to rebuild its beaches, which are washing away having been rebuilt just a few years ago after Wilma carried off the resorts signature sands.

But the future looks bright. In Chiapas, the revolutionary Zapatistas have pacified in recent years, making travel to this remote highland region a possibility. Chichn Itz, the massive Maya-Toltec site in eastern Yucatn state, was voted one of the seven modern wonders of the world, and archaeologists have uncovered temples that they believe may have been the portal to the Maya underworld (Xibalb), in a series of caves in the region. And, of course, the region continues to offer the sensuous beaches, hip-hopping clubs and raucous resorts that make this Mexicos number one vacation destination.

A journey to the Yucatn Peninsula, Tabasco or Chiapas doesnt necessarily require much advance planning. Apart from the peak periods mentioned below, just check flight times, grab your passport and youre on your way. Outside the limited peak seasons, theres little competition for accommodations, and transportation around the peninsula is cheap and frequent. Perhaps your best pre-trip preparation would be to learn some Spanish every word you know will make your trip that little bit easier and more enjoyable. for some words and phrases.

For the most part, Yucatn is no more dangerous than any major Western city. Stay street savvy, dont wear expensive jewelry, and keep in mind that the locals (especially in Chiapas) are not on display (see the ,).

Any time is a good time to visit the Yucatn, though perhaps the best time is during November and early December, as there are fewer tourists and prices are relatively low. September and October can be equally low-key unless a hurricane decides to pass through (see below). May to September are the months with the highest rainfall and highest temperatures, with May and June being the hottest, most humid months. The highlands of Chiapas can get downright cold at night.

The occasional norte (storm bringing wind and rain from the north) can cool things off considerably for brief spells between November and February. This makes for more pleasant ruins exploration but may delay plans for snorkeling or beachcombing. Birding and wildlife-watching are good year-round, and mid-May through mid-September is the time to come to glimpse whale sharks (see ).

July and August are peak holiday months for both Mexicans and foreigners, as is mid-December to early January. A week either side of Easter is also a peak holiday period for Mexicans. At these times the coastal resorts attract big crowds, room prices go up in popular places, and rooms and public transportation can be heavily booked, so advance reservations are advisable. In addition, Cancn is swamped with reveling young US college students during spring break (late February to early March).

If a full-blown hurricane is predicted for the region you are in, go somewhere else fast! At the very least go inland, far from the dangerous sea swell that invariably accompanies hurricanes. The National Hurricane Center (www.nhc.noaa.gov) has up-to-date info.

With the exception of the resort areas of the Caribbean coast (often referred to as the Riviera Maya), travel in Yucatn is still fairly inexpensive. Things get even cheaper in Chiapas, though Tabasco, with its fancy oil money, can be a bit pricey. Midrange travelers can live well in most parts of the peninsula for M$600 to M$1000 per person per day. Two people can usually find a clean, comfortable room with private bathroom and fan or air-conditioning for M$400 to M$600, and use the rest to pay for food (a full lunch or dinner in a typical decent restaurant costs around M$100 to M$150), admission fees, transportation and incidentals. Budget travelers should allocate M$250 to M$500 each per day for accommodations and two meals a day in cheap restaurants. Add in other costs (like contracting a guide or taking a snorkeling trip) and youll spend more like M$500 to M$800.