John Wiley - Formulating, Packaging, and Marketing of Natural Cosmetic Products

Copyright 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All rights reserved.

Published by John Wiley & Sons, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey.

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Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data:

Formulating, packaging, and marketing of natural cosmetic products / edited by Nava Dayan, Lambros Kromidas C.

p. cm.

ISBN 978-0-470-48408-1 (cloth)

1. CosmeticsComposition. 2. Cosmetics containers. 3. Organic compounds.

I. Dayan, Nava. II. Kromidas, Lambros.

TP983.F595 2011

668.55dc22

2010054045

oBook ISBN: 9781118056806

ePDF ISBN: 9781118056783

ePub ISBN: 9781118056790

Preface

From an early age, we learn to discern what is natural and what is not. A child knows that a deer is part of nature and a car is not. He may not be able to explain exactly why, but he has, even at this early age, an innate understanding of natural things. The deer is not manmade and cannot be controlled or designed, while the car can be designed by man to assume many shapes and functions. The same can be said about cosmetic chemist, manufacturers, marketers, and consumers of natural cosmetics. The issue with natural cosmetics is that unlike trees, deer, fish, flowers, and so on they are not found in or made by nature. They are manufactured like a car, chair, fork, and a multitude of other items. So how can a manufactured cosmetic product claim to be natural? Some may claim that cosmetics made of all natural products are natural. That sounds reasonable. Does that mean then that a fork made of unprocessed wood is natural? A child may not think so because even though the wood is natural, the finished product does not look natural and involved extensive human intervention. Likewise, many do not think cosmetics are natural even if they are made of natural components. If there is a natural cosmetic, it will be one of the many fruits or berries found in nature that may be used to color ones skin by using their substance. If used in such a manner and for the purpose of coloring the skin, one can argue that berry is a natural cosmetic. For many of us, it may be the packaging and manufacturing parts that make it difficult to accept the concept that a cosmetic on the drug store shelf could be natural. Be that as it may, one cannot argue with something made of all natural components even if manufactured by big noisy steel machines and packaged in an artificial container (i.e., a container not made of natural components). But for argument's sake, let us accept the paradigm that such a product is a natural product. Can a cosmetic then be made of all natural components? Some hardcore natural cosmetic chemists may think so, but for the majority the lack of a variety of natural functional ingredients is a rate-limiting step in the development. What percentage of natural components included in the formula will qualify it to claim that it is natural? Furthermore, how would one classify natural ingredients? For some, it matters how they were gathered and processed before use. Regardless, even the hardcore natural cosmetic chemist will have to admit that the palate, aesthetics, and stability of cosmetics made of all natural products will be severely limited and compromised. However, the trends of the past two decades clearly indicate that a large part of the population is striving to get back to nature, as they say. As such, natural has become a created homeostasis outside God's or evolution's responsibility. While it is the nature of life in many poor third world countries, in the Western developed world, the getting back to nature trend is mostly driven by the wealthier population that can afford shopping for organic and unprocessed food, vitamins and supplements, and alternative medicinal practices.

When it comes to cosmetics and personal care, this sense of natural confusion and created homeostasis has penetrated almost every aspect of product development: from the sourcing and definitions of raw materials used, to the design of the formulations, and to the testing requirements, regulations, and their enforcement. Many of us in the cosmetic industry did not and do not know how to digest this new paradigm of natural cosmetics, and how to translate it to practicality. This book is an attempt to mitigate the confusion over natural cosmetics and is designed to provide the reader with the basic tools and ideas to develop naturally derived formulations. This book is neither developed by hardcore natural cosmetic scientists, manufacturers, or marketers who want to push their own unique agenda. Nor is it designed to champion any special interest group's agenda. It is tailored by conventional cosmetic scientists whose agenda is to merely make sense of this business opportunity. We specifically chose contributors associated with our industry but from varied walks of life, backgrounds, and specialties to give a fresh outlook on the subject matter. Our contributors had no preconceived interests in natural cosmetics but were eager to advise, enlighten, and guide the reader whose interest is to take the primary steps toward formulating, packaging, and marketing of natural cosmetic products.

Working with these contributors was a wonderful learning experience and we thank them sincerely.

Lambros Kromidas
Nava Dayan

Contributors

Eric Antignac , L'oreal R&D, Worldwide Safety Evaluation, Asnieres, France

Anne Marie Api , Research Institute for Fragrance Materials, Inc., Woodcliff Lake, NJ

MaryJoy Ballantyne , Covington & Burling LLP, Washington, DC

Sonali Bose , Department of Pharmaceutics, Ernest Mario School of Pharmacy, New Jersey Center for Biomaterials, Rutgers, The State University of New Jersey, Piscataway, NJ; Novartis Pharmaceuticals Corporation, East Hanover, NJ