Mable-Ann Chang - Hiking in China: The Joys of Exploring the Middle Kingdom on Foot

Hiking in China

Mable-Ann Chang

ISBN-13: 978-988-8552-81-8

2020 Mable-Ann Chang

TRAVEL/Asia/China

EB130

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in material form, by any means, whether graphic, electronic, mechanical or other, including photocopying or information storage, in whole or in part. May not be used to prepare other publications without written permission from the publisher except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles or reviews. For information contact info@earnshawbooks.com

Published by Earnshaw Books Ltd. (Hong Kong)

Taking the First Step

Hiking in China is the experience of a lifetime. We have all seen photographs of the Great Wall, of the sparkling waters of the West Lake near the city of Hangzhou, and the sheer cliffs of the Gorges along the middle reaches of the Yangtze River. But nothing can match the experience of walking and hiking through such scenes. Walking is good for you, and so is hiking, and doing it in China is doubly good for you because of the incredible richness of the culture and the history through which you are passing.

When people think of China, they tend these days to think of Shanghai or Beijinghuge metropolises with bright lights and masses of people, often coated in a layer of smog. If they think of Chinas natural environment, if at all, they tend to picture pandas or bamboo, like screenshots from a Disney film. This book seeks to demonstrate that there is more to China than pandas, chopsticks and urban sprawl, and hiking and walking are a great way to experience it.

There is a rich tradition of appreciation for nature in China, and a history of hiking that stretches back thousands of years, making it an ideal location for those wanting to plan a trip to enjoy the open air.

From the gravity-defying trail across the Bridge of Eight Immortals in Anhui province, to the pathways of the Long March through Jinggangshan in Jiangxi province, walkways steeped in history are threaded across the country. In historic times, people travelled primarily for a purpose, rather than leisure. Monks sought the seclusion of mountains to gain enlightenment, merchants traversed the empire in pursuit of wealth, and soldiers scaled geography to attain territory and fame. These three categories provided the primary motivations for the hiking that has been done across China over the centuries.

Todays hikers in China are walking in the footsteps of these ancient travelers, surrounded by their legacy. In China, you will not only be passing on foot through some of the most magnificent scenery in the world, but also places that are steeped in millennia of history. There are very few places in the world where can you experience both at the same time. Yet hiking in China is not yet a mass pastime, although that number is steadily rising as travelers discover the abundance of trails and other walking itineraries, and more efforts are being taken to conserve and make accessible the countrys scenic areas. Having boots on the ground allows hikers to discover Chinas unique culture and quirky elements in a direct way, and also enjoy many of those random moments that make traveling China so endearing.

This book contains hikes for the modest nature enthusiast, but also for the more experienced. It includes trails and walks in regions right across China, from the Stone Forest of Guizhou, to the Great Wall near Beijing and on to the glacial lakes of Jiuzhaigou in Sichuan. Almost all of the locations are just a few hours train or plane ride from the major metropolises. Indeed, Chinas incredibly convenient internal connectivity is one of the main reasons why hiking here is now so feasible. The crystalline mountain lakes of Sichuan geographically are in another world, but they are less than four hours away from Beijing.

We would guess that three types of people in particular will be interested in this book. The first are those who love to travel and also have an avid interest in hiking, but live outside of China. The second group are people living in China, but who want to make hiking part of their experience here. Thirdly, Chinese people increasingly have an interest in getting away from the city and seeing more of their own country, and they may also appreciate the suggested walks and associated information.

Some of the trails and walks introduced are more appropriate for serious hikers, others for more casual walkers. This book tries to include a range of hikes that will appeal to all different classes of hikers with an interest in China, focusing on the classic sights that everyone should see. There is something for everyone. Just get out of the car and do some walking.

The book is divided into three parts. The first explains the history of hiking in China, as well as introduces some of the more colorful characters associated with perambulation in the Middle Kingdom. You will get a glimpse of what those erstwhile artists and explorers saw and experienced to provide context to the hikes and walks of modern China. The second section contains practical information on how to get to China, traveling within the country, and what gear hikers should consider carrying, both practical and electronic. It also offers some tips on interacting with Chinese people and culture, and the unique aspects of hiking in this vast and fascinating country. The third part of the book focuses on the specific hikes, divided into four cardinal regions and broken down further by province. It is designed so that hikers can find hikes near the area they will be traveling to easily, as well as helping you to decide on what you might find interesting. Special attention is given to the history behind the trails and places traversed, so that hikers and walkers can gain maximum richness from the experience.

Hiking in China is for a particular kind of traveler, the kind who wants to take the road less traveled and interface with the country and the culture on a deeper level, one that few foreigners and even Chinese people achieve. Enjoy your time in this spectacular place. You will create memories that will last a lifetime.

Part I

The History

Ministers, Monks,and Merchants

Ancient hikers and walkers in the traditional Chinese world were a colorful and eclectic cast of characters. There were the scholars and officials were would take to the byways and paths for reflection and self-cultivation. Some were banished to the countryside as a result of some infraction at court, while others looking to escape the stifling atmosphere of the capital whiled away the days drinking wine and composed odes while strolling through the hills and valleys. Then theres were the religious-minded, Taoist and Buddhist monks and others seeking purification by visiting remote temples or secluding themselves in mountain retreats. And then there was money. Merchants and mercenaries took to the road looking for gold and glory. What follows are just three of the many stories of itinerants in old China.

Scholar Officials

With time on their hands, their basic needs were amply provided for and their highly-educated sophistication, the scholar-officials of Chinas old imperial world made an art out of meandering around the countryside. Their excursions are recorded in the paintings they would sometimes do and the poems they would write while reclining beside a running stream, crags towering above them, a courtesan on hand to re-fill the wine cup. This golden world (for the few) was ripped apart by the wars and dislocations of the 19th century, and ended in 1911 with the end of the last dynasty. But many of them were astute travelers and records of their impressions have in many cases been passed down to the present day.