Richard Ford - Gatherings from Spain

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Every attempt has been made to replicate the original book as printed. A typographical error has been corrected (). No attempt has been made to correct or normalize the printed accentuation or spelling of Spanish names or words. (etext transcriber's note)

GATHERINGS FROM SPAIN.

BY THE
AUTHOR OF THE HANDBOOK OF SPAIN;
CHIEFLY SELECTED FROM THAT WORK, WITH
MUCH NEW MATTER.
NEW EDITION.
LONDON:
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.
1851.

TO THE
HONOURABLE MRS. FORD,

THESE pages, which she has been so good as to peruse and approve of, are dedicated, in the hopes that other fair readers may follow her example,

By her very affectionate
Husband and Servant,
RICHARD FORD.

PREFACE.

MANY ladies, some of whom even contemplate a visit to Spain, having condescended to signify to the publisher their regrets, that the Handbook was printed in a form, which rendered its perusal irksome, and also to express a wish that the type had been larger, the Author, to whom this distinguished compliment was communicated, has hastened to submit to their indulgence a few extracts and selections, which may throw some light on the character of a country and people, always of the highest interest, and particularly so at this moment, when their independence is once more threatened by a crafty and aggressive neighbour.

In preparing these compilations for the press much new matter has been added, to supply the place of portions omitted; for, in order to lighten the narrative, the Author has removed much lumber of learning, and has not scrupled occasionally to throw Strabo, and even Saint Isidore himself, overboard. Progress is the order of the day in Spain, and its advance is the more rapid, as she was so much in arrear of other nations. Transition is the present condition of the country, where yesterday is effaced by to-morrow. There the relentless march of European intellect is crushing many a native wild flower, which, having no value save colour and sweetness, must be rooted up before cotton-mills are constructed and bread stuffs substituted; many a trait of nationality in manners and costume is already effaced; monks are gone, and mantillas are going, alas! going.

In the changes that have recently taken place, many descriptions of ways and things now presented to the public will soon become almost matters of history and antiquarian interest. The passages here reprinted will be omitted in the forthcoming new edition of the Handbook, to which these pages may form a companion; but their chief object has been to offer a few hours amusement, and may be of instruction, to those who remain at home; and should the humble attempt meet with the approbation of fair readers, the author will bear, with more than Spanish resignation, whatever animadversions bearded critics may be pleased to inflict on this or on the other side of the water.

CONTENTS.

PAGE

A General View of SpainIsolationKing of the SpainsCastilian PrecedenceLocalismWant of UnionAdmiration of SpainM. Thiers in Spain

The Geography of SpainZonesMountainsThe PyreneesThe Gabacho, and French Politics

The Rivers of SpainBridgesNavigationThe Ebro and Tagus

Divisions into ProvincesAncient DemarcationsModern DepartmentsPopulationRevenueSpanish Stocks

Travelling in SpainSteamersRoads, Roman, Monastic, and RoyalModern RailwaysEnglish Speculations

Post Office in SpainTravelling with Post HorsesRiding postMails and Diligences, Galeras, Coches de Colleras, Drivers and Manner of Driving, and Oaths

Spanish HorsesMulesAssesMuleteersMaragatos

Riding Tour in SpainPleasures of itPedestrian TourChoice of CompanionsRules for a Riding TourSeason of YearDays JourneyManagement of Horse; his Feet; Shoes; General Hints

The Riders CostumeAlforjas: Their contentsThe Bota, and How to use itPig Skins and BorrachaSpanish MoneyOnzas and smaller Coins

Spanish Servants: their CharacterTravelling Groom, Cook, and Valet

A Spanish CookPhilosophy of Spanish CuisineSauceDifficulty of CommissariatThe ProvendSpanish Hares and RabbitsThe OllaGarbanzosSpanish PigsBacon and HamsOmeletteSalad and Gazpacho

Drinks of SpainWaterIrrigationFountainsSpanish ThirstinessThe AlcarrazaWater CarriersAblutionsSpanish ChocolateAgrazBeer Lemonade

Spanish WinesSpanish IndifferenceWine-makingVins du PaysLocal WinesBenicarlValdepeas

Sherry WinesThe Sherry DistrictOrigin of the NameVarieties of SoilOf GrapesPajareteRojas ClementeCultivation of VinesBest VineyardsThe VintageAmontilladoThe CapatazThe BodegaSherry WineArrope and Madre VinoA Lecture on Sherry in the Cellarat the TablePrice of Fine SherryFalsification of SherryManzanillaThe Alpistera

Spanish Inns: Why so IndifferentThe FondaModern ImprovementsThe PosadaSpanish InnkeepersThe Venta: Arrival in itArrangementGarlicDinnerEveningNightBillIdentity with the Inns of the Ancients

Spanish RobbersA Robber AdventureGuardias CivilesExaggerated AccountsCross of the MurderedIdle Robber TalesFrench BandittiphobiaRobber HistoryGuerrillerosSmugglersJose MariaRobbers of the First ClassThe RateroMiguelitesEscorts and EscopeterosPasses, Protections, and TalismansExecution of a Robber

The Spanish Doctor: His Social PositionMedical AbusesHospitalsMedical EducationLunatic AsylumsFoundling Hospital of SevilleMedical PretensionsDissectionFamily PhysicianConsultationsMedical CostumePrescriptionsDruggistsSnake BrothSalve for Knife-cuts

Spanish Spiritual Remedies for the BodyMiraculous RelicsSanative OilsPhilosophy of Relic RemediesMidwifery and the Cinta of TortosaBull of Crusade

The Spanish FigaroMustachiosWhiskersBeardsBleedingHeraldic BloodBlue, Red, and Black BloodFigaros ShopThe BarateroShaving and Toothdrawing

What to observe in SpainHow to observeSpanish Incuriousness and SuspicionsFrench Spies and PlunderersSketching in SpainDifficulties; How SurmountedEfficacy of Passports and BribesUncertainty and Want of Information in the Natives

Origin of Bull-fight or Festival, and its Religious CharacterFiestas RealesRoyal FeastsCharles I. at oneDiscontinuance of the Old SystemSham Bull-fightsPlaza de TorosSlang LanguageSpanish BullsBreedsThe Going to a Bull-fight

The Bull-fightOpening of SpectacleFirst Act, and Appearance of the BullThe PicadorBull BastinadoThe Horses, and their Cruel TreatmentFire and DogsThe Second ActThe Chulos and their DartsThe Third ActThe MatadorDeath of the BullThe Conclusion, and Philosophy of the AmusementIts Effect on Ladies

Spanish Theatre; Old and Modern Drama; Arrangement of Play-housesThe HenroostThe Fandango; National DancesA Gipsy BallItalian OperaNational Songs and Guitars

Manufacture of CigarsTobaccoSmuggling vi GibraltarCigars of Ferdinand VII.Making a CigarritoZumalacarreguy and the SchoolmasterTime and Money wasted in SmokingPostscript on Spanish Stock

GATHERINGS FROM SPAIN.

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CHAPTER I.

A general view of SpainIsolationKing of the SpainsCastilian precedenceLocalismWant of UnionAdmiration of SpainM. Thiers in Spain.

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