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Harry Bucknall - In the Dolphins Wake

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Harry Bucknall In the Dolphins Wake
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    In the Dolphins Wake
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In the Dolphins Wake: summary, description and annotation

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Harry Bucknalls journey through the Greek Islands from West to East. His writing is amusing and erudite a rich mixture covering Greek history, mythology, folklore, culture, everyday life and the often comedic situations in which he found himself.

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I have to tell you that I very much enjoyed it, relished its loitering, laid-back style of writing as of travelling, and learnt a great deal from it along the way.

Jan Morris CBE

Harry Bucknall carries us by magic flights from the thousand birds of St Marks to the far distant Symplegades

Its a lovely book.

Sir Patrick Leigh Fermor DSO OBE

Dedicated, with grateful thanks, to St Spyridon of Corfu

Contents
While I have been sitting in a wind beaten barn on the Dorset downs writing In - photo 1

While I have been sitting in a wind beaten barn on the Dorset downs writing In the Dolphins Wake, hardly a day has passed when I have not been reminded of the many friends without whose help this book could not have been completed. Many are mentioned along the way, others have had their names changed or been inelegantly dumped on different islands for either my or their peace of mind but many more worked tirelessly in the background on my behalf ensuring that few stones were left unturned.

It would be remiss of me not to record my deepest thanks to them for they are as much part of this book as the characters within it: Christopher Lee (the writer, not the vampire) and Sir Alastair Horne for telling me to go; Roxy Fry and John Sunnucks for their thoughts at the outset; Christopher Sinclair Stevenson for his belief in my crazed idea; Howard Rombough and Simon Adley for their wisdom; my brilliant readers Peter and Anne Williams, Lucinda Sunnucks, David Prest and Michael Ward who shaped the chapters far more than I; my learned editors Alex Martin and Alan Ogden who cajoled and boxed my unruly script into form; Nicos Papaconstantinou and Areti Gourgouli from the Greek Embassy in London who ceaselessly responded to my many requests mostly on Friday afternoons; George, 2nd Earl Jellicoe and Sir Patrick Leigh Fermor for their inspiration along with Elpida Beloyanni, a very special lady; Justine Hardy, my rock, for her constant laughter and persistent encouragement along the very long way; Gillie Waud, Valerie Davaud, Kiki Balopoulos, Spyro and Millie Flamburiari for their generosity and hospitality; Takis Anagnostakos on Corfu; Hugo Tyler on Symi; Pablo Requejo, Henrietta Green, Caroline Keeley and Jeffery Tolman for their company; my long-suffering parents, Robin and Diana, for looking after my Jack Russell, Sam not forgetting Rose Playdon in the village Post Office too; James, my brother and Tessa, his wife, for their welcome interruptions during the long days of winter; Father Martinianos for the light he brought to the journey; June Samaras in Ontario for flooding me with information; Father Meliton of the Orthodox Church in London for his invaluable input; Graeme Moyle, Akil Jackson and Ann-Marie Doyle for getting me on the road suitably prepared; Dick Morrisey-Paine and Jeremy Downward for putting up with my many questions; Aliki-Maria Vlachava for digging about on Spetses; Ioanna Kontarini, the Officers & Crew of High Speed 1 and the Express Pegasus of Hellenic Seaways; Dr Andy Bevan of University College London and Professor James Conolly of Trent University, Ontario for technical advice; Helen Elliot, Stephen Mansbridge, Philip Sturrock and Robin Baird-Smith for their counsel; my sister, Kate Benson, and James Dunseath for ensuring that all would not be lost if I spilt coffee everywhere; Tony Hannaford for his delightful artwork and design, Anthony Weldon, my champagne only publisher for not only pushing the green button but making the whole tedium that is production such enormous fun and, finally, Harsch Sood, the Indian Prince, for putting up so patiently with a sometime recluse seemingly welded to his laptop.

Thank you all.

Why do we get all this life if we dont ever use it?

Why do we get all these feelings and dreams if we dont ever use them?

WILLY RUSSELL,Shirley Valentine

It had, up until that moment, been a dream of a day. I was stuck on a cliff.

Actually it was more precarious than that; I was stuck on top of an old dry stonewall on top of a cliff, surrounded by the most vicious thorn bushes. The choices before me were not great: to my right, a twenty foot drop to the ground and, to my left, a 300 foot drop into the sea, assuming, that is, I cleared the rocks at the bottom. Left and down was not the preferred option. Then, without warning, the stone I was standing on, gently and rather elegantly at first, gave way, dictating that my legs and consequently the rest of me should follow. As I plunged seaward, this, I thought to myself, is definitely not what should be happening to me, which, as I crashed at some speed through gorse, over rock and shale, it most certainly was.

The trouble started that morning when I bought a copy of the Bleasdales excellent map of Paxos. Everyone should have a copy. It is voluminous like the main sail on a tall ship, running to a level of detail I have rarely seen before. However what was remarkable for such an informative map is that the bit of Paxos I now found myself on was delineated by nothing other than a patch of nondescript shading.

That afternoon I had decided to walk back to Gaos along the cliff tops. I followed a path to a survey point until it petered into a trail which in turn vanished, leaving me stranded in an inescapable web of balloon-bursting spiked branches. By walking on the tops of the terracing that every now and again surfaced from the undergrowth, I overcame the path issue but the stones too gave up the battle just when I thought I was on a roll. On my first fall, I simply disappeared like a stage apparition through a trap door. I climbed back onto the wall, because off it I could neither see over it nor beyond it, save thorn thickets. I looked as if I had been stuck in a revolving door with Zorro. Buoyed with that hypoxic optimism you get in these situations, I had gone way past the turn round moment that was hours ago. Increasingly it seemed my dream of a day was turning into a nightmare, which is about when I fell off the wall for the second time.

The map, folded into a neat cushion-like pad that showed my particular corner of Paxos (such a lovely island I reminded myself as I flew through the air) was to prove the ultimate in air bags as I plunged downward headfirst. I know I let out a little scream. No one would hear me, so it seemed safe to drop my inhibitions a bit and indulge in some minor theatricals. When I recovered my poise, the map had a dramatic hole in it, about where my eyes would have been. Balancing on gorse roots, themselves clinging for dear life to the bare rock, I drew breath and examined a ripped arm and gashed thigh. Everything was just fine, my sunglasses were still on.

Another fall like that, however, and I could be lost for days. Who would miss me? I imagined the BBC World Service hissing about the globe, the last bars of Lillibolero fading out as the newsreader announced, The search for the missing Englishman, Harry Bucknall, continues today. Mr Bucknall, in his early forties was last seen on the Greek island of Paxos a week ago and apart from a piece of torn clothing found near an old building site, no sign has been found of him. The Hellenic Coast Guard would be scrambled and after weeks of searching, finally stumble over me, ready-buried under a pile of crumbled wall, camouflaged by thorn and half-eaten by ants. A futile end to a short-lived dream.

Why, at that moment, I prayed to Saint Spyrdon of Corfu remains a mystery. He is nothing to do with Paxos. The plea wasnt grand you understand, just something about promising to dedicate a book to him if I ever got out of this place. This place of dreams. Bad dreams.

Then, suddenly, inspiration: using my map and rucksack I would leapfrog my way off the cliff. Saint Spyridon to the rescue!

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