Oppi Untracht - Jewelry Concepts & Technology

TITLE PAGE PHOTOS: Numbers refer to photos reading from left to right across pages.

YASUKI HIRAMATSU, Japan. Rings incorporating a great many basic concepts employed in jewelry design and fabrication. Reading from left to right: 111: 925 silver, rhodium plated; 1214: 18K gold; 1516: 925 silver, rhodium plated; 17: 18K gold; 18: 9K white gold; 1921: 18K gold; 2225: 24K and 18K gold; 2633: 925 silver, rhodium plated; 34: Fine and 925 silver, rhodium plated; 35: 24K and 18K gold; 3639: 23K gold and silver alloy, 18K gold; 40: 22K gold and silver alloy. Photos: Yasuki Hiramatsu

Published by Doubleday, a division of Bantam Doubleday Dell Publishing Group, Inc., 1540 Broadway, New York, New York 10036

Doubleday and the portrayal of an anchor with a dolphin are trademarks of Doubleday, a division of Bantam Doubleday Dell Publishing Group, Inc.

Library of Congress Cataloging in Publication Data

Untracht, Oppi.
Jewelry concepts and technology.
1. Jewelry making. I. Title.
TS725.U57 739.27
eISBN: 978-0-307-78411-7
Library of Congress Catalog Card Number 802637

Copyright 1982, 1985 by Doubleday & Company, Inc.
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without the prior permission in writing of the Publishers, or of the copyright owners whose names appear with the illustrative material.

v3.1

To the memory of two mothers:
Bessie Untracht (18881969)
Lempi Hopea (18921974)

By the same author:

E NAMELING ON M ETAL
M ETAL T ECHNIQUES FOR C RAFTSMEN

Flowers in the Garden

Sincere thanks to:

Saara Hopea-Untracht who did the line drawings, typed manuscript, and pampered the writers psyche. Without her help, this book would not exist.

Bengt Mattsson who inked the drawings with loving care.

Mickey Norman who typed manuscript for years.

Thomas OConor Sloane III who initiated this project.

Karen Van Westering, editor par excellence.

Elfriede Hueber for the layout.

Diana Klemin for the book jacket realization.

Deborah Posner for copy editing the manuscript.

Janell Walden for her patience in eradicating vexing oversights.

Eleanor Funk for assistance in innumerable ways.

JEWELERS

who generously responded with always-to-be-remembered kindness to requests for photos of their work. Their names, arranged alphabetically by country, follow:

A USTRALIA

Stokes, John

A USTRIA

Boltenstern, Sven

Coudenhove, Anita

Skubic, Peter

Symon, Josef

B ELGIUM

Franois, Bernard

Souply, Emile

Wesel, Claude

C ZECHOSLOVAKIA

Cepka, Anton

Novkov, Alena

D ENMARK

Bisgaard, Palle

Blow-Hbe, Torun

Exner, Helga and Bent

Flora Danica Jewellery A/S

Fog, Astrid

Gabrielsen P., Bent

Havgaard, Poul

Jensen, Georg

Knudsen, Anni and Bent

Koppel, Henning

Musse, Peder

Nielsen, Kurt

Randers Slvvarefabrik

Selzer, Thor

F EDERAL R EPUBLIC OF G ERMANY

Bartsch, Gnther

Becker, Friedrich

Bette, Franz J.

Bnck, Werner

Bury, Claus

Dechow, Eberhard

Gasch, Barbara

Huber, Patriz

Immich, Use

Jnger, Herman

Lhtje, Christa S.

Munsteiner, Bernd

Nele, E. R.

Reiling, Reinhold

Rothman, Gerhard

Seegebrecht, Bernd

Seibert, Georg

Treskow, Elisabeth

von Mayrhofer, A.

Wagner, Fred

F INLAND

Aarikka, Kaija

Gardberg, Bertel

Hivoja, Paula

Hopea-Untracht, Saara

Ilvessalo, Kirsti

Juvonen, Helky

Kauppi, Elis

Lehtinen, Martta

Lehtonen, Liisa

Lindholm, Berndt

Linnovaara, Juhani

Lukala, Esa

Minkkinen, Eila

Paaer, Germund

Palonen, Taisto

Rajalin, Brje

Rehnstrm, Helmer

Rislakki, Eero

Saastamoinen, Reino

Salminen, Mirjam

Sarpaneva, Pentti

Still-McKinney, Nanny

Suuronen, Toivo J.

Tamminen, Seppo

Veri, Lauri

Vitali, Liisa

Weckstrm, Bjrn

Wirkkala, Tapio

F RANCE

Baldaccini, Csar

Broussailles, Delphin

Champagnat, Jean Claude

Gargat, Henri

Jourdain, Fernand

Lalanne, Claude

Meyerie, Marc

Momiron, Claude

Morobito, Pascal

Penalba, Alicia

Schmid, Michle

Sylvain, L. B.

Templier, Raymond

Vendome, Jean

H ONG K ONG

Har, Sui Lai

Huber, Marcus Franz

Piu, Lai Yun

Sang, Chan Ming

H UNGARY

Dobos, Gyngyvr

I NDIA

Nanubhai Jewelers

I SRAEL

Bechar-Paneth, Hanna

Cohavi, Malka

Kaminski, Vered

Shraiber, Rachel

I TALY

Babetto, Giampaolo

Bulgari

Martinazzi, Bruno

Pavan, Francesco

Pomodoro, Gio

Soto, Jesus Raphael

Spalla, Paolo

Villa, Adelio

J APAN

Hiramatsu, Yasuki

Hishida, Yasuhiko

Mitsuyasu, Takao

Nakayama, Aya

Takabatake, Kotaku

Also see

L ITHUANIA

Pakutinskiene, Irena

Pakutinskas, Felkas

M EXICO

Hagsater, Edme

Poulat, Matilde Eugenia

Sobern, Manuel Rivero

Tane, S. A.

Vargas Ramrez, Fausto

N ETHERLANDS

Bakker, Gijs

Herbst, Marion

Niehorster, Karel

van Leersum, Emmy

N ORWAY

Bjorg, Toril

Blom, Erik

Juhls, Regine and Frank

Skalstad, Ebba

Vigeland, Pl

Vigeland, Tone

P OLAND

Nieniewski, Marek and Lucyna

R EPUBLIC OF C HINA

Liu, Wann-Hong

S PAIN

Capdevila, Joaqun