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First published in Great Britain
by Kuperard, an imprint of Bravo Ltd
59 Hutton Grove, London N12 8DS
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Series Editor Geoffrey Chesler
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Printed in Malaysia
Cover image: Traditional Uzbek embroidery. Arkady Chubykin, Adobe Stock
Photographs on pages 17 (right), 34, 39, 56, 87, 94, 110, 112, 127, and 153 by courtesy of the author.
Images on the following pages reproduced under Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 4.0 International license: 19 Yunuskhuja Tuygunkhujaev; 52, 54, 70, 116 (middle) Ji-Elle; 66 Ymblanter; 126 .
Reproduced under Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported license: 21 Patrickringgenberg; 93, 102, 104 Shuhrataxmedov; 65 oc; 92 Thomas Falk (living in Uzbekistan and Germany); 105, 132, 135 Guidecity; 117 Sigismund von Dobschtz; 119 Ekrem Canli; 125 RIA Novosti archive, image #21541 / V. Kiselev /CC-BY-SA 3.0; 131 Gennady Misko; 137 mos.ru ( ) ; 142 Or2008; 156 Nataev.
Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 2.0 Generic license: 17 (left) https://www.flickr.com/photos/gusjer/; 33, 115 upyernoz from Haverford, USA; 45 Tim Griffin; 63, 68, 76, 124, 164 Jean-Pierre Dalbra from Paris, France; 106 David Stanley from Nanaimo, Canada; 116 (bottom) Ramn from Llanera, Espaa; 139 Peretz Partensky from San Francisco, USA.
Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 2.0 France license: 20 Stomac.
Creative Commons CC0 1.0 Universal Public Domain Dedication: 29 (top) Jam123.
About the Author
ALEXEY ULKO is a linguist, art critic, filmmaker, and writer who lives in Uzbekistan. A First Class Honors graduate in English Language and Literature from the University of Samarkand, he taught English there for ten years and became the first Hornby Scholar from Uzbekistan to obtain an M.Ed. TTELT degree from the University of St. Mark and St. John, Plymouth, in the UK. Since 2003 he has been an independent consultant in English-language teacher training, a translator, and a writer on contemporary Central Asian culture and art. He has made several short films and spoken at conferences on the subject. He is a member of the Association of Art Historians and the European Society for Central Asian Studies.
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contents
Map of Uzbekistan
introduction
Uzbekistan, like its Central Asian neighbors, is not particularly well known to the outside world. For about seventy years it was one of the fifteen republics of the USSR, then commonly referred to as Russia, and few Westerners knew much about the cultural and ethnic differences within this huge country. In 1991, after Independence, Uzbekistan joined the family of other stans, of which the most internationally prominent are Afghanistan and Pakistan. At the same time, the names of Uzbekistans oldest cities, Samarkand and Bukhara, are often instantly recognizable and evoke glamorous associations with the Great Silk Road and The Arabian Nights. Which of these impressions is the right one? All and none, for Uzbekistan is an exciting mixture of different cultural traditions, from Persian to Turkic, from European and Russian, to the contemporary globalized amalgam.
When you arrive in Uzbekistan you immediately discover how multicultural its society is, which you may see as something to celebrate as well as cause for a certain disappointment.
Those who expect to find a stereotypically drab post-Soviet country with dull concrete buildings and hapless people will be rewarded with the chance to dip into a vibrant, colorful, and exotic Central Asian life. Uzbeks are open, hospitable, emotional, and positive people, but they also like a certain order. Travelers expecting to face the kind of chaos that overwhelms the urban labyrinths of such cities as Cairo or Delhi will be pleasantly surprised by careful city planning, wide tree-lined streets, and well-kept architectural monuments.
On the other hand, visitors should be prepared for some Soviet-style restrictions and bureaucracy and the lack of certain features of the globalized world such as cash machines, McDonalds, Starbucks, and broadband. You will also notice a distinct urbanrural divide and different cultural patterns and rules used in different communities. The ethnic and linguistic mixture may be confusing, but getting to know the people of Uzbekistan can be a hugely enjoyable experience.
This short guide aims to raise awareness of the complexity of Uzbekistans culture, to equip you with the knowledge of how to make the most of your visit, and to help you to avoid or handle the occasional difficulty. It sets out to guide you through a spectrum of local subcultures, from the traditional rural Uzbek through a mix of Russian, European, and Soviet cultures to the modern cosmopolitan community.
As a native Russian-speaking citizen of Uzbekistan, I am aware of the inevitable subjectivity of my own perspective. To compensate for this bias, I have sought advice from both Uzbek-speaking friends and foreign friends who have spent time in Uzbekistan in different roles and positions. They have shared their insights with me and greatly enriched my own understanding of Uzbek culture.
Welcome to Uzbekistan!
Hush kelibsiz Ozbekistonga!
Key Facts
Official Name | Republic of Uzbekistan |
Capital City | Tashkent | Pop. officially 2.3 million |
Main Cities | Samarkand, Bukhara, Namangan, Andijan, Ferghana, Jizzakh, Termez, Navoi, Nukus, Gulistan, Karshi, Urgench |
Population |
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