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Valentina Peveri - The Edible Gardens of Ethiopia: An Ethnographic Journey into Beauty and Hunger (biodiversity in small spaces)

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Valentina Peveri The Edible Gardens of Ethiopia: An Ethnographic Journey into Beauty and Hunger (biodiversity in small spaces)
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What is a beautiful garden to southern Ethiopian farmers? Anchored in the authors perceptual approach to the people, plants, land, and food, The Edible Gardens of Ethiopia opens a window into the simple beauty and ecological vitality of an ensete garden. The ensete plant is only one among the many unloved crops that are marginalized and pushed close to disappearance by the advance of farming modernization and monocultural thinking. And yet its human companions, caught in a symbiotic and sensuous dialogue with the plant, still relate to each exemplar as having individual appearance, sensibility, charisma, and taste, as an epiphany of beauty and prosperity, and even believe that the plant can feel pain. Here a different story is recounted of these human-plant communities, one of reciprocal love at times practiced in an act of secrecy. The plot unfolds from the subversive and tasteful dimensions of gardening for subsistence and cooking in the garden of ensete through reflections on the cultural and edible dimensions of biodiversity to embrace hunger and beauty as absorbing aesthetic experiences in small-scale agriculture. Through this story, the reader will enter the material and spiritual world of ensete and contemplate it as a modest yet inspiring example of hope in rapidly deteriorating landscapes. Based on prolonged engagement with this virtuous plant of southwestern Ethiopia, this book provides a nuanced reading of the ensete ventricosum (avant-)garden and explores how the life in tiny, diverse, and womanly plots offers alternative visions of nature, food policy, and conservation efforts.

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biodiversity in small spaces Virginia D Nazarea Series Editor The - photo 1

biodiversity in small spaces

Virginia D. Nazarea, Series Editor

The University of Arizona Press
www.uapress.arizona.edu

2020 by The Arizona Board of Regents
All rights reserved. Published 2020

ISBN-13: 978-0-8165-4115-7 (paper)

Cover design by Leigh McDonald
Cover photos by Valentina Peveri
Typeset by Leigh McDonald in Adobe Caslon Pro 10/14 and Aldus LT (display)

The writing of this book was entirely supported by the Wenner-Gren Foundation [Hunt Postdoctoral Fellowship, Grant Number 9503]. Publication was made possible by the financial support of The American University of Rome (AUR).

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Names: Peveri, Valentina, 1978 author.

Title: The edible gardens of Ethiopia : an ethnographic journey into beauty and hunger / Valentina Peveri.

Description: Tucson : University of Arizona Press, 2020. | Series: Biodiversity in small spaces | Includes bibliographical references and index.

Identifiers: LCCN 2020015445 | ISBN 9780816541157 (paperback)

Subjects: LCSH: EnseteEthiopia. | Hadiya (African people)EthnobotanyEthiopia. | Kitchen gardensEthiopia.

Classification: LCC SB317.E58 P48 2020 | DDC 635.0963dc23

LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2020015445

Printed in the United States of America
Picture 2This paper meets the requirements of ANSI/NISO Z39.48-1992 (Permanence of Paper).

ISBN-13: 978-0-8165-4203-1 (electronic)

ILLUSTRATIONS

Figures

Map

GRAZIE

(Acknowledgments)

T HE COREchapters of this book took shape during a summer season spent in a Boston neighborhood, only a short walk from the Arnold Arboretum. Every morning before reaching the library at the Boston University African Studies Center, soon after dawn, I would go for a run through the woods. On July 14, 2018, I took a steep rocky path off the beaten track, trudged up to the top, and heard the sound of rapid movement coming from behind a pile of stone and wood. I rested, breathless. A majestic deer stepped forward, also bewildered, and simply stood. We stared at each other for what seemed to me like an eternity. The spell broke when I decided to run away, tripped, and fell to the ground. When I turned back he or she had vanished. Only later during the writing process did I realize what the details of our wordless communication had actually meant; but I knew that the deer was my Gemini spirit animal, and therefore immediately felt that he or she was another meor me looking into the abyss of my Self. I developed most of the confidence in my authorial voice after this encounter, and I could more clearly see what the essential, still nameless, message of this book should be.

The spirit animal has since incarnated and manifested itself in more human forms. I am deeply grateful to James C. McCann, who has watched over this project long before anyone could think of it as having the potential to become a book. He has nurtured my imagination and devoted hours on end to reading and commenting on the draft chapters; but especially, he has provided an immersive flux of storytelling around emerging ideas that stretched my imagination even further, down into the abyss and back to the written pagealways encouraging me to think like an octopus. Grazie, Professore, for all those adventurous detours.

Nothing of what is written in these pages would be the same had it not been for the immense love of language, words, detail, and philosophy of my friend and guardian angel Rob Edwards, who generously handed to me the practical tools to speak the nameless message of the book in English, and then escorted me every step of the way into the underground of Wonderlandinto the painful magic of crafting ideas through words (and the other way round).

Funding was critical to the development of this project. The seed of it was planted during a research stay at the African Studies Center of Boston University in 201516, which received support from the U.S.-Italy Fulbright Commission. I have fond memories of my time spent at the African Studies Library and of the technical and human support from its staff membersBeth Restrick, Gabeyehu (Gabe) Adugna, and Rachel Dwyer. Afterward, the project was boosted by a Hunt Postdoctoral Fellowship, which the Wenner-Gren Foundation awarded me in fall 2017. In particular, I would like to thank two anonymous reviewers who urged me in the infancy of the project to experiment energetically with turning the successful proposal into a book, and to cling to an intimate and evocative approach to the subject matter.

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