Rough Guides - The Rough Guide to Sweden (Travel Guide eBook)

Robert Harding

Contents

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Introduction to

Sweden

The mere mention of Sweden conjures up resonant images: snow-capped peaks, reindeer wandering in deep green forests and the 24-hour daylight of the midnight sun. But beyond the household names of ABBA, IKEA and Volvo, Sweden is relatively unknown. The largest of the Scandinavian countries, with an area twice that of Britain (and roughly that of California), but a population of just over ten million, Sweden has space for everyone: the countryside boasts pine, spruce and birch forest as far as the eye can see and crystal-clear lakes perfect for a summer afternoon dip not to mention possibly the purest air youll ever breathe. The countrys south and west coasts, meanwhile, feature some of the most exquisite beaches in Europe without the crowds.

In general Sweden is a carefree place where life is relaxed. Indeed, the Swedes liberal and open attitude to virtually every aspect of life is certainly one of their most enviable qualities; people are generally left to do their own thing, providing it doesnt impinge on the rights and freedoms of others. In Sweden, rights go hand in hand with duties, and theres a strong sense of civic obligation (count how few times you see people dropping litter, for example), which in turn makes for a well-rounded and stable society. Many of the cornerstones of the Swedish welfare state, such as tremendously generous benefits and health-care perks, which Swedes still hold dear today, were laid down during forty years of unbroken rule by the Social Democrats.

Yet, over the years, foreigners have somehow confused the open Swedish attitude to society, including nudity and sexuality, with sex. Contrary to popular belief, Sweden isnt populated solely with people waiting for any opportunity to tear off their clothes and make passionate love under the midnight sun. It is, though, a country founded on honesty and straight talking two of Swedens most refreshing qualities.

Where to go

Sweden is principally a land of forests and lakes. Its towns and cities are small by European standards and are mostly located in the southern third of the country, where the majority of Swedes live. Of its cities, serenely beautiful Stockholm is supreme. Sitting elegantly on fourteen different islands, where the waters of Lake Mlaren meet the Baltic Sea, the city boasts some fantastic architecture, fine museums and by far the best culture and nightlife in the country. The 24,000 islands which comprise the Stockholm archipelago are a perfect antidote to the urban bustle, offering endless opportunities to explore unspoilt island villages and to go swimming. On the west coast, Gothenburg , the countrys second biggest city, is also one of Swedens most appealing destinations. Gothenburgers have a reputation for being among the friendliest people in Sweden, and the citys network of canals and spacious avenues is reminiscent of Amsterdam, whose architects designed it.

Fact file

• Sweden is the third largest country in western Europe behind only France and Spain stretching 1600km from north to south. If the country were pivoted around on its southernmost point, the top of the country would reach as far south as Naples in Italy.
• There is no translation for the Swedish word lagom , one of the most commonly used terms in the language. Roughly speaking, it means just the right amount, not too much but not too little, a concept that is the very essence of Swedishness.
• More than half of Swedens land surface is covered with forest mostly coniferous punctuated by an astonishing 100,000 lakes .
• Sweden is home to the worlds first and largest hotel made entirely of ice and snow. Icehotel is built in December using blocks of ice cut from the local Torne River. The hotel melts back into the river in May.
• In northern Sweden frozen lakes and rivers are used by drivers looking for a shortcut to their destination. The national road agency marks out ice roads and decides when the ice is thick enough to support a vehicle.

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GOTHENBURGS COLOURFUL ROOFS

The south is the most cosmopolitan part of the country, owing to the proximity of Denmark and the rest of the European continent. Here youll find the glorious ancient university seat of Lund and, nearby, Swedens third biggest city, Malm , which heaves with youthful nightlife around its medieval core.

Inland, southern Sweden boasts some handsome lakes, the two largest of which, Vnern and Vttern , provide splendid backdrops to some beautiful towns, not least the evocative former royal seat and the monastic centre of Vadstena , and Karlstad , the sunshine capital of Vrmland, a rugged province ideal for river-rafting trips. To the east of the mainland lies Gotland , justifiably raved about as a haven for summer revelry, especially within the medieval walls of its unspoilt Hanseatic city, Visby .

Central and northern Sweden represent the most quintessentially Swedish-looking part of the country. In the centre lies Dalarna , an area of rolling hills and villages thats home to Lake Siljan , one of Swedens most beautiful lakes. North of here lies some of the countrys most enchanting scenery, home to bears, wolves and reindeer. To the east, the shoreline of the Bothnian coast contains the norths biggest cities: Sundsvall , Ume and Lule are all enjoyable, lively places in which to break your journey north.

Midsummer mayhem

An atmosphere akin to Mediterranean joie de vivre takes over Sweden during the midsummer solstice (the weekend closest to June 24), when maypoles are erected as giant fertility symbols in gardens and parks across the country. Midsummer is not a time for staying in towns everyone heads to the countryside and coasts, with Dalarna, the island of land and the shores of the Bohusln coast being just a few of the most popular spots. Aided in no small part by copious quantities of alcohol , the populations national characteristics of reserve and restraint dissolve over midsummer weekend. Long trestle tables draped in white cloths and sagging under the weight of multiple varieties of herring, potatoes with dill and gallons of akvavit are set up outside, and parties go on through the light night with dancing to the strains of accordions and fiddles.

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Northern lights

Also known by their Latin name, aurora borealis , the northern lights are visible all across northern Sweden during the dark months of winter. These spectacular displays of green-blue shimmering arcs and waves of light are caused by solar wind, or streams of particles charged by the sun, hitting the atmosphere. The colours are the characteristic hues of different elements when they hit the plasma shield that protects the Earth: blue is nitrogen and yellow-green is oxygen. Although the mechanisms which produce the aurora are not completely understood, the displays are generally more impressive the closer you get to the poles low temperatures are also rumoured to produce some of the most dramatic performances. Gllivare and Kiruna , both well inside the Arctic Circle, are arguably the best places in Sweden to catch a glimpse of the aurora, particularly during the coldest winter months from December to February. Although displays can range from just a few minutes to several hours, the night sky must be clear of cloud to see the northern lights from Earth.