Rough Guides - The Rough Guide to Yorkshire

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BRIDGE OVER THE RIVER NIDD, KNARESBOROUGH

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Introduction to

Yorkshire

Yorkshire, it has been said, is a country in a county. The very name brings countless images to mind wild moors, headlands and cliffs; rugged dales and enormous beaches; medieval cities, churches and monasteries; formal estates and vast steelworks; coal mines and woollen mills. This diversity is part of the countys appeal its countryside and coast can compete with anywhere in Britain for beauty, its cities with any in the UK for shopping and dining and clubbing. And its pubs and breweries arent half bad, either.

In area Yorkshire is by far Englands largest county. Its geology and topography yield virtually every type of British landscape and habitat. And different stages of the nations human history are etched on its landscape, layer upon layer within these borders you can see prehistoric long boats, Roman walls and roads, medieval castles, monasteries and minsters, Edwardian mansions and Georgian resorts, and, with their own distinctive jolie-laide appeal, the iron and steel bones of heavy industry.

As a result, Yorkshire offers an unrivalled range of things to see and do. Its museums of science, history and industry are among the best in the world. It excels in ruined monasteries, proud cathedrals and humble rural churches. It boasts more than its fair share of enthusiast-run steam heritage railways, and a literary and artistic heritage that has left a number of evocative sights. The great outdoors is more than great here, in the dales and the moors, and along the craggy, dramatic coasts. Long-distance national trails including the Pennine Way and the Cleveland Way bring walkers and cyclists to Gods own country , but there is also ample opportunity for caving and potholing, sailing and watersports.

Yorkshire people , too, have a distinctive identity. Theyll quote the old saying Yorkshire born, Yorkshire bred. Strong int arm and thick int ead, but itll be said with a twinkle in the eye. Look at the writing of Alan Bennett and John Godber, the poetry of Simon Armitage and Ian MacMillan, the novels of Laurence Sterne and Kate Atkinson, the lyrics of Jarvis Cocker and Alex Turner or almost anything said by Fred Trueman. Youll come across that dry, wry Yorkshire humour wherever you go.

Where to go

If you are here to hike or cycle, then the obvious place to base yourself is in one of the villages of the Dales or the North York Moors. If its the seaside youre after, then choose one of Yorkshires fine coastal resorts, from the historic old fishing town of Whitby to the postcard-pretty Robin Hoods Bay or the family-friendly spa resort of Scarborough . And if youre after big city attractions, you cant beat Leeds with its museums, shops, cafs and restaurants to rival even London , or Sheffield and Hull , Yorkshires smaller cities that each have an artsy, easy-going feel, and access to green spaces for when the urban attractions begin to pale.

South and West Yorkshire offer a range of spectacular museums Magna in Rotherham, Kelham Island in Sheffield, Eureka! in Halifax, the National Coal Mining Museum and Yorkshire Sculpture Park in Wakefield, the Royal Armouries in Leeds and the National Media Museum in Bradford, among them together with a host of smaller museums and art galleries often staffed by knowledgeable enthusiasts. In South and West Yorkshire in particular, the range of outstanding industrial museums and other heritage sites is impressive, as might be expected from one of the worlds most important cradles of the Industrial Revolution.

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BRONT PARSONAGE MUSEUM

At the heart of the county, the Vale of York boasts Yorkshires single biggest tourist attraction the historic city of York itself. Having played such a large part in the history of Britain from the time of the Celts, York has a huge concentration of tourist attractions. Prime among them is York Minster, of course, with Jorvik and Dig two of the finest interactive museums you will find anywhere as absolute must-sees, and the wonderful National Railway Museum, Yorkshire and Castle museums coming up fast behind. Its a great place to spend a few days, wandering aimlessly around its narrow lanes with their ridiculously picturesque overhanging houses, enjoying river trips or ghost walks, and treating yourself at lovely hotels, fine restaurants and shops. York has all you need for a perfect city break, but if possible, dont just confine yourself to the city get out into the surrounding countryside to see the stunningly beautiful ruins of Fountains Abbey , and take time to get to know pleasant towns like Wetherby, Knaresborough, Harrogate and Ripon.

Yorkshire is lucky enough to boast two national parks the Yorkshire Dales and the North York Moors, glorious stretches of rugged upland scenery, with fertile valleys and bare heather-covered hills. For fresh air and outdoor attractions you dont need to stick too closely within park boundaries, however. Nidderdale is one of the Yorkshire Dales, and the Howardian Hills are a continuation of the North York Moors. Neither is included in their respective national parks, but they are designated Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty.

The Dales are rich in waterfalls, potholes and caves, with pretty stone villages surrounded by meadows, dry stone walls and field barns. Artisan crafts are thriving here you can visit sites making anything from cheese to ropes, chocolate and beer. The Dales also have some astonishingly imposing castles , of which Richmonds, with its spectacular clifftop position, is the finest. The North York Moors , meanwhile, have their own share of castles at Pickering, Helmsley and Scarborough and the impressive, medieval Rievaulx Abbey overlooked by the elegant eighteenth-century Rievaulx Terrace. The working monastery of Ampleforth is another draw, and, across the north, the pastoral Esk Valley . Here too you will find the nostalgic North Yorkshire Moors Railway , its steam trains providing a lovely way to travel between the villages of the region.

Weird and wonderful activities

Never let it be said that Yorkshire doesnt have an eccentric side. In addition to mainstream and outdoor sports, you can try out a number of unusual activities at a variety of venues.

Cable waterskiing An electric cable instead of a boat drags you around the water at Rother Valley Country Park near Rotherham where theres also fishing, golf and a number of other splendid outdoor activities on offer.

Husky-trekking You dont need snow for this husky-trekking you can become a musher on grass at Pesky Husky (peskyhusky.co.uk) in Staintondale between Scarborough and Whitby.

Mountain boarding Snowboarding, but not as we know it. This version uses boards with four wheels to whizz up and over the rocks. Try it at Another World Mountain boarding centre in the hills above Ogden Reservoir north of Halifax (