Rough Guides - The Rough Guide to Argentina (Travel Guide eBook)

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Contents

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Introduction to

Argentina

Studded with outstanding natural wonders and endowed with one of the worlds most stylish capital cities, Argentina is a vast and varied land. Tapering from the Tropic of Capricorn towards the tip of Antarctica, it encompasses a staggering diversity of terrains, from the lush wetlands of the Litoral to the bone-dry Andean plateau of the northwest to the end-of-the-world archipelago of Tierra del Fuego. Its most emblematic landscapes are the verdant flatlands of the Pampas and the dramatic steppe of Patagonia, whose very name evokes windswept plains inhabited by hardy pioneers.

At first glance, Argentina may seem less exotic than the rest of South America, and its inhabitants will readily, and rightly, tell you how powerful an influence Europe has been on their nation. It has been quipped that Argentina is the most American of all European countries and the most European of all American countries, but it actually has a very special character all of its own, distilled into the national ideal of Argentinidad , characterized by proud, defiant passion. While there is a lot of truth in the clichs Argentine society really is dominated by football , politics and living life in the fast lane (literally, when it comes to driving) not everyone dances the tango or is obsessed with Evita or gallops around on a horse. Wherever you go, though, youre bound to be wowed by Argentines zeal for so many aspects of their own culture and curiosity about the outside world.

One of Argentinas top attractions is the sprawling metropolis of Buenos Aires , the most fascinating of all South American capitals. Its a riveting place just to wander about, people-watching, shopping or simply soaking up the distinct atmosphere. Its many barrios (neighbourhoods) are remarkably varied some are atmospherically historic, others strikingly modern but all of them ooze character. The other main cities worth visiting are colonial Salta in the northwest, beguiling Rosario birthplace of Che Guevara and Lionel Messi and Ushuaia , which, in addition to being the worlds most southerly city, enjoys a fabulous waterfront setting on the Beagle Channel.

FACT FILE

• Argentina is the worlds eighth-largest country by area, though with a population of around 45 million a third of whom live in Greater Buenos Aires it is one of the least densely populated countries on the planet.
• Some 97 percent of Argentines are of European origin, largely of Spanish or Italian descent. Most are nominally Catholic, but under a fifth are practising. Although access to abortion is still heavily restricted, Argentina has some of Latin Americas most progressive laws on matters like same-sex marriage and dying with dignity.
• Best known for its beef, Argentina is also a leading producer of wine, wheat, fruits and vegetables. In recent years much of the countrys land has been turned over to soya production, while shale oil and gas fields in Patagonia offer huge economic opportunities but deeply troubling environmental consequences.
• Argentines have twice been awarded the Nobel Peace Prize: Carlos de Saavedra Lamas, in 1936, for his peace efforts in South America, and Adolfo Prez Esquivel, in 1980, for his defence of human rights in the 1970s.
• The remains of the largest-known dinosaur the Patagotitan mayorum, which weighed a whopping 69 tonnes were discovered by chance by a farm worker in Patagonia in 2008.
• Argentina has a vibrant film industry and has twice carried off an Oscar for best foreign language film: La historia oficial (The Official Story) in 1985 and El secreto de sus ojos (The Secret in Their Eyes) in 2010; both movies deal with the Dirty War and its aftermath.

But the countrys real trump cards outside the capital are the sheer size of the land and the diverse wildlife inhabiting it. In theory, by hopping on a plane or two you could spot howler monkeys and toucans in northern jungles in the morning, then watch the antics of penguins tobogganing into the icy South Atlantic in the afternoon. Argentina hosts hundreds of bird species including the Andean condor and three varieties of flamingo plus pumas, armadillos, llamas, foxes and tapirs roaming the countrys forests and mountainsides and the dizzying heights of the altiplano, or puna . Lush tea plantations and parched salt flats, palm groves and vast ice fields, plus the worlds mightiest set of waterfalls, are just a few of the scenes that will catch you unawares if you were expecting Argentina to be one big cattle ranch. Dozens of these biosystems are protected by an extensive network of parks and reserves .

For getting around and seeing these marvels, you can generally rely on a well-developed infrastructure inherited from decades of domestic tourism. Thanks in part to an increasing number of boutique hotels, the range and quality of accommodation has improved no end in the last 15 years or so. Among the best lodgings are the beautiful ranches known as estancias or fincas in the north that generally function as luxury resorts. In most places, youll be able to rely on the services of top-notch tour operators, who will not only show you the sights but also fix you up with a staggering range of outdoor adventures : horseriding, trekking, white-water rafting, kayaking, skiing, climbing and hang-gliding, along with more relaxing pursuits such as wine tasting or birdwatching. Argentina offers such variety that its impossible to take it all in on one trip youll find yourself longing to return to explore the bits you didnt get to see the first time around.

Where to go

Argentina has many attractions that could claim the title of natural wonders of the world: the prodigious waterfalls of Iguaz ; the spectacular Glaciar Perito Moreno ; unforgettable whale-watching off Pennsula Valds ; the handsome lakes and mountains around Bariloche indeed, Patagonia in general. Yet many of the countrys most rewarding destinations are also its least known, such as the Esteros del Iber , a huge reserve of lily-carpeted lagoons offering close-up encounters with cormorants and caymans; or Antofagasta de la Sierra , a remote village set amid frozen lakes mottled pink with flamingos; or Laguna Diamante , a high-altitude mirror of sapphire water reflecting a wondrous volcano. In any case, climate and distance will rule out any attempt to see every corner; its more sensible and rewarding to concentrate on one or two sections of the country.

Unless youre visiting Argentina as part of a wider South American tour, Buenos Aires is likely to be your point of entry, as it has the countrys main international airport, Ezeiza. It is exciting, vibrant city, with an intriguing blend of European architecture and a vernacular flair that includes houses painted in the colours of legendary football team Boca Juniors. Meanwhile, Buenos Aires museums and galleries are eclectic enough to suit all interests classic and modern Latin American art, colonial silverware, dinosaurs and ethnography are just a few of the subjects on offer and you can round off a days sightseeing with a tango show, a dinner at one of the dozens of fabulous restaurants, or a hedonistic night out.