Jonathan Hopfner - Moon Living Abroad in South Korea

JONATHAN HOPFNER

After decades in which South Korea languished in the shadow of larger neighbors, its safe to say the secret is out. The countrys pop culture has taken the Internet by storm, its gadgets fill pockets from Boston to Beirut, and its people helm some of the worlds leading think tanks. Couple that with an economy that continues to expand at rates the indebted West can only dream of, and its easy to see why foreigners are flocking to South Korea in ever greater numbers. Yet for all this, the diminutive peninsula jutting from Chinas eastern flank toward the islands of Japan remains something of an enigma, and its bellicose northern half still tends to dominate global headlines. At least compared to places like Hong Kong or Singapore, nonnatives are thin on the ground. This makes a visit to South Korea an exercise in the unexpected for most new arrivals, as it was for me over a decade ago.

In a way, thats for the best, because its a place with a knack for confounding expectations. Many of the pleasant surprises will be immediately apparentstriking mountain landscapes, top-notch infrastructure (built in barely a generation!), healthy, inexpensive, and delicious food and drink, a vibrant foreign community, and a local populace happy to help foreign residents make the most of all of these things.

But perhaps the biggest surprise of all is the deep emotion, the sense of attachment, this relatively small country can evoke. That may be because of its history, the way it dragged itself into prosperity against unimaginable odds. Or the culture, a rich bedrock of ritual that continues to govern much daily interaction. But in the end Ive come to believe its because few other places on earth cram in such contrasts. The neon-drenched streets and clamor of Seoul give way in a few short hours to emerald rice fields or gaily painted temples nestled in secluded valleys; fortune-tellers pitch their tents outside trendy boutiques (and often draw more customers); lush, almost tropical summers are followed by near-arctic winters; joyful abandon and deep melancholy engage in a continual tug-of-war in the Korean art.

The constant interplay, and frequent struggle, between modernity and tradition mean life in South Korea can sometimes be bewildering, even frustratingfor Koreans themselves, never mind foreign visitors. The countrys turbulent past still manifests itself in troubling ways. As a former Hermit Kingdom, closed to the outside world, it is still coming to terms with its place in a globalized ageand its expanding foreign population.

But development and change are virtually hardwired into the national psyche, and the government and the South Korean people continue to make significant strides in improving the legal and social climate for the countrys expatriate residents. Theres arguably never been a better time to enjoy the opportunitiesand ability to astonishthat are South Koreas stock-in-trade. Arrive with an open mind, and be prepared to exploreand enjoy.

The culture and pastimes on tap. Most countries boast long-standing traditions, but South Koreans go out of the way to make theirs accessible to nonnatives. Whether youre keen on meditation, martial arts, tea, calligraphy, traditional drumming, online gaming, or even starting a business, youll find well-established support networks here that will help you explore your passion and make new friends in the process.

The sense of discovery. Much of Korea has yet to be seen by visitors. Take to the roads and youre bound to be treated to the rare feeling of stumbling upon something truly new--well, to non-Koreans anyhow. Youll also find locals who go out of their way to be hospitable to the few foreign visitors that do turn up.

A customary level of service that makes just about everywhere else seem uncivilized by comparison. Meals nearly always come with a bottomless array of accompaniments, pubs ply loyal customers with complimentary snacks, and purchases at markets, grocery stores, and even gas stations will often result in an extra treat or two being tossed into your shopping bag by a pleased proprietor trying to encourage you to come back. And all this is in a country where tipping is virtually unheard of.

Autumn. The crisp temperatures, radiant foliage, and azure skies of late September to November are a delight, and perhaps the only time of year when foreign residents understand the national tendency to wax poetic over the seasons.

The mountains, especially the way locals take to them each weekend in the thousands, usually decked out in carefully color-coordinated hiking gear and enough equipment to make an Everest climber envious. As many peaks are dotted with temples and ruins, exploring them is as much a cultural experience as an athletic one.

Ondol. These networks of pipes carry hot water under every home, warming the floor (but nothing else) to near frying-pan temperatures, which keeps your mattress toasty even as the wind howls and the snow falls outside.

A broadband infrastructure thats nothing short of phenomenal. The network is always on, dizzyingly fast, and comparatively cheap.

The countryside. This is still a rural culture at heart, and outside the crowded cities theres an abundance of lovely scenery, fantastic produce, and some very friendly people.

The socializing. South Koreans approach play the same way they approach work: very seriously. Nights out are usually lengthy affairs that include gut-busting communal meals, plenty of drinks, singing, and good cheer. And whoever is hosting is highly unlikely to let you pay a cent.