Debra Jaliman - Skin Rules

TO MY FAMILY, WHO ALWAYS BELIEVED IN ME

Contents

Introduction

I have been practicing dermatology in Manhattan for more than twenty-five years as an attending physician at Mount Sinai Medical Center, where I also teach dermatology, and at my own private practice on Fifth Avenue. My patients come from all walks of life and all over the world, from the average Joe to the people you see on the cover of Vogue or accepting Academy Awards. Although it is certainly nice to have so many famous patients, I also take great pride when my patients bring in their sisters or best friends. Word-of-mouth referral is the highest compliment, especially when I hear I love my skin. I cant believe how great it looks now!

A good dermatologistone who is well versed in the latest technology and has an artists eye and a steady hand when it comes to fillers and Botoxcan make an astounding difference in the way people look. Its not just faces that can be improved; cosmetic dermatology has expanded its benefits to the entire body. I regularly see my celebrity patients being interviewed on television. Every time I hear them ascribe their taut bodies and youthful looks to clean living and good genes, I smile to myself and think, More like a good dermatologist.

There is so much conflicting advice in magazines, books, and Web sites that people get understandably confused and overwhelmed. I wanted to write a book that is short, practical, and to the point, one that explains not only basic skin care but also the very latest technologies that many people are unaware of. I believe that an informed person is in a better position to make the right choices. People who read this book will know what type of laser works on red skin or what radio frequency can do for the face and body. They will also know which ingredients to look for and which to avoid, depending upon their skin. My patients tell me that I have gotten them into the habit of reading the ingredient list of every skin-care product they buy. Sometimes they even save money because some excellent products are sold in drugstores. The truth is that good skin care does not have to be complicated and it does not have to be expensive, outside certain special procedures that should be done only in a board-certified dermatologists office.

This is the decade of dermatology and its noninvasive, low-risk procedures. Many people dont know that their bellies can be tightened or their sagging eyelids lifted without cutting, all at their dermatologists office. The proper skin care can make people look ten to fifteen years younger without resorting to plastic surgery.

Although I have worked with companies in product development in the past, I want to make it clear that I am not a paid consultant for any of the companies whose products or technologies I recommend in this book. I have my own line of skin-care products (which is excellent, by the way), but I do not mention it at all among the products I recommend because I want my recommendations to be impartial, and I really cant be expected to be impartial about the skin-care line Ive developed. Every single product or technology mentioned in this book has been chosen based on my personal and professional experience and the valuable feedback I get from my patients. Since I absolutely believe that nobody has to go broke to look better, I have tried to provide less expensive alternatives whenever possible.

Few people have naturally perfect skin, but no matter what skin you were born with, it can be made to look betterusually a whole lot better. What everybody should aim for is their own best skin, the kind that gets compliments and has a healthy glow.

These seventy seven simple rules are designed to help you navigate the beauty aisles in stores and ask the right questions when you visit a dermatologist. They are the same advice I give my patients in my private practice. If youve always dreamed of having virtually flawless skin or want to look years younger than your age, this book will set you on the right track.

RULE #

ONE

Dont Waste Money on Expensive CleansersSpend It on Moisturizers, Sunscreens, and Antiaging Products Instead

Pricey skin-care lines usually include pricey cleansers, but the truth is some of the best cleansers I know are sold on drugstore shelves, so look there first. This is the advice I give to all my patients, even to the celebrities whose faces you see on magazine covers, who can certainly afford really, really expensive cleansers. Youre just washing money down the drain, I tell them. It isnt worth it to spend a lot of money on cleansers. Believe me, you can put your money to better use.

RULE #

TWO

The Right Cleanser Is Key

One of the first questions I ask a new patient is What do you use to cleanse your face? The right cleanser can make a big difference; after all, its something you use twice a day (or should). Far too often, I find that people are using the wrong cleanser. For dry, sensitive, or normal skin, buy a cleanser that is mild and wont strip the natural oils. Neutrogena Extra Gentle Clean is one of my favorites since it is fragrance-free, nondrying, and noncomedogenic (it wont clog pores). CeraVe Hydrating Cleanser is another good choice because it has ceramides and hyaluronic acid, which prevent skin from drying out. If you prefer a cleansing bar, Basis Sensitive Skin Bar or Cetaphil will work. Many of my patients like Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser. Im not crazy about its gloppy texture, but its certainly mild enough for sensitive skin. For oily or acne-prone skin, an exfoliating cleanser will help to remove dead skin cells and bacteria. Two good options are RoC Multi Correxion Exfoliating Cleanser and LOral Paris Go 360 Clean Anti-Breakout Facial Cleanser , which contain salicylic acid. Although most of the salicylic acid will be washed down the drain, it does help to remove surface skin and excess oil.

RULE #

THREE

Makeup Removal and Cleansing Are Not the Same

If you use heavy makeup, you have to remove it before cleansing. If youre wearing mascara and eye makeup, wipe that off first with an eye makeup removal product. Remember to wipe gently because the skin around the eyes is very delicate. Now for the rest of the face: Take a cotton pad and moisten it with toner or a tiny bit of water and a dab of cleanser. Make sure to remove all makeup, especially in areas where it tends to collect, such as above and in the eyebrows and in the creases around the nose and mouth.

I appear on TV fairly frequently and if theres one thing I hate, its the heavy makeup they slather on me before I go on camera. I know its necessary (the new high-definition technology really brings out every flaw), but I cant wait to get it off. The minute Im off the air I run to my bag for the cotton squares and the small bottle of toner I always carry and wipe it off as fast as possible. Why toner? Because I find its faster and more efficient than cleanser. But if you want to use cleanser, go right ahead. Once makeup is off, proceed to cleansing.

RULE #

FOUR

Wash Your Face Correctly

In my practice, we always teach patients how to cleanse their faces. The first thing they learn is that their fingers are not enough and will never get their skin really clean. Fingers cant exfoliate and besides, bacteria lurk under fingernails. So use cotton pads or rounds or a fresh washcloth every time you wash your face. Dont scrub; just rub gently, particularly around the nose and on the neck. Try it; youll be surprised by how much cleaner your skin feels afterward. Use lukewarm water, not hot or icy cold. If youre into gadgets, one of my favorites is the Clarisonic Sonic Skin Cleansing System, which truly does remove more makeup, dirt, and oil than manual cleansing alone. Because it leaves skin cleaner and more exfoliated, serums and treatment products penetrate better. Just be sure to change the brush head every two or three months and choose the appropriate brush for your skin type; when in doubt, use the one for delicate skin. If the Clarisonic is not in your budget, Olays Professional Pro-X Advanced Cleansing System machine can be found in many drugstores and makes an acceptable alternative. Always use a mild cleanser with any machine.