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Copyright 2016 by Steve Hely
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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS CATALOGING- IN-PUBLICATION DATA
Names: Hely, Steve.
Title: The wonder trail : true stories from Los Angeles to the end of the
world / Steve Hely.
Description: New York, New York : Dutton, 2016.
Identifiers: LCCN 2015038442| ISBN 9780525955016 (hardcover) | ISBN 9780698404236 (ebook)
Subjects: LCSH: Hely, SteveTravelCentral America. | Hely,
SteveTravelSouth America. | Central AmericaDescription and travel. |
South AmericaDescription and travel. | Central AmericaSocial life and
customs. | South AmericaSocial life and customs. | Curiosities and
wondersCentral America. | Curiosities and wondersSouth America. |
BISAC: TRAVEL / South America / General. | TRAVEL / Essays & Travelogues.
| HUMOR / Form / Essays.
Classification: LCC F1433.2 .H45 2016 | DDC 917.2804dc23
LC record available at http://lccn.loc.gov/2015038442
All photos and maps courtesy of the author unless otherwise noted.
Drawing on page 90 by Frederick Catherwood.
While the author has made every effort to provide accurate telephone numbers, Internet addresses, and other contact information at the time of publication, neither the publisher nor the author assumes any responsibility for errors or for changes that occur after publication. Further, the publisher does not have any control over and does not assume any responsibility for author or third-party websites or their content.
Penguin is committed to publishing works of quality and integrity. In that spirit, we are proud to offer this book to our readers; however, the story, the experiences, and the words are the authors alone.
All names and identifying characteristics have been changed to protect the privacy of the individuals involved.
Version_1
To tell the tale of the journey is to go on it a second time.
PONCE DE LEN
Oh, theres the whole universe.
When I closed my eyes, I could see it. Just beyond the parades of dancing animals and dinosaurs.
The whole everything of the cosmos. Expanding out in every direction. Beyond the stars, through the galaxies, to the bright edge of everything, and infinity. In, too, inside my brain and my body, down to my very molecules, until they became galaxies of particles, infinities of their own.
I did know where I was, dont get me wrong. Like if youd asked me, I couldve told you I was lying on my back on the wood floor of the shamans house, under a mosquito net, about an hours walk from that village, San something, on the Rio Amazonas. Two hours boat ride or so, plus an hour walk, from Iquitos, Peru. So if there was an emergency, I could... I dunno, walk two or three miles, until I got service, and text...
Eh, forget emergencies. I felt better and safer than I had in a long time. Geography, where I was, that all seemed like a meaningless detail right now, when, if I could just keep my eyes closed, the whole meaning of everything would be revealed. Any question I ever had could be answered. Cosmic harmony would wash over me and swallow me like an ocean.
If I could just remember: What was I looking for, again?
What Kind of Book Is This?
This is the story of a trip, from Los Angeles to Patagonia. True tales and stories and adventures collected by a traveler. As long as thereve been books, this has been a kind of book.
Who Should Read This Book?
- Anyone taking a trip
- People who would like to take a trip but cant, because theyre stuck, like at work or in a waiting room someplace or at home with their kids, but wish they could take a trip
- Anyone who can happily remember taking a trip
- Or anyone who hates taking trips. They can read it, laugh at the discomfort of the traveler, and experience the best parts of a trip without ever even getting up.
So: People taking trips, people who arent taking trips, people who like trips, and people who dont like trips should all enjoy this book.
Plus:
On this trip, I went through Mexico, Central America, and the western half of South America. So this book should also appeal to:
- People who dont know much about the places south of the United States but are curious
- People who know a lot about that part of the world should also read this book, so they can scoff at my many naive impressions and misunderstandings.
So: People who do and do not know a lot about Latin America should also read this book.
Plus, just general fans of books.
Or people who are new to bookswhy not start with this one?
Also: Young Adults
Young adults read lots of books, Im told. Teens and preteens. This could be a good one for them. I write at a level suitable for a clever ten-year-old.
Contents
The Beginning / Los Angeles
A Travel Book
T here were stories like this way before there were books.
Ill bet you the cave paintings they find in France, all those bison and horses running around, those were illustrations for tales of trips. Maybe they also served as base camp for kinds of mental or spiritual trips, shamanic trips, practice trips.
What we call humans climbed out of the trees, two million years ago lets say, in eastern Africa. We started walking and we havent stopped. We filled up the Earth, every crevice and corner. Now were poking about looking for new Earths.
Campfire stories arent always about trips, its truesometimes theyre about Hook-Hand Man, for instancebut then again youre already camping. Youre reenacting the major activity of human history: walking the Earth.
For as long as there have been books, there have been books about trips. In the Sumerian Epic of Gilgamesh, King Gilgamesh and his grass-eating, wild-haired buddy Enkidu are off to the Cedar Forest by tablet 4.
In fairness, Gilgamesh and Enkidu arent just going on vacationtheyre going to kill the monstrous giant Humbaba because it will make them even more famous. Gilgamesh is already famousback in tablet 1, its established that hes had sex with every single hot woman in Uruk, to the point that its a problem. But he feels called to go on an adventure.
Maybe the first person to take a trip just to write about it was Herodotus, who lived in Greece, or maybe western Turkey, in the fifth century BC . He went across the Mediterranean to have a look at Egypt.