Matt Forster - Explorers Guide Colorado

For Abby and Nathan, who make every trip a joy.

EXPLORE WITH US!

Welcome to the third edition of Explorers Guide Colorado, the definitive guide to the Centennial State. From the expansive eastern plains to the Rocky Mountains, this guide covers the best there is to see and do in Colorado. Travelers will find important information on where to stay, where to eat, which attractions to see, and which activities are available in every region of the state. Like the other titles in the Explorers Guides series, this book covers the usual worthwhile attractions as well as some out-of-the-way local favorites.

WHATS WHERE In the beginning of the book youll find an alphabetical listing of important information and state highlightseverything from avalanches and altitude to wildlife and wineries.

LODGING The hotels, B&Bs, cabins, and campgrounds in this book have been included because they have a proven reputation for being great places to stayno one pays to be listed in these pages. From season to season, rates across Colorado fluctuate greatly; so a range of rates is included with each listing. For accurate travel planning, its essential to call ahead. Every attempt has been made to provide the most current lodging rates, but the old saying holds true that the only constant is that everything changes.

KEY TO SYMBOLS

RESTAURANTS The eateries in this book have been separated out into two sections: Dining Out and Eating Out. Dining Out listings are typically (although not always) the most expensive. These are where you find fine cuisine. Eating Out listings are typically cheaper, family dining establishmentswhere you find good grub. A range of prices is included for each entry. Colorado has a statewide ban on smoking in bars and restaurants.

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Explorers Guide Editor

The Countryman Press

A division of W. W. Norton & Company

500 Fifth Avenue

New York, NY 10110

CONTENTS

M y wifes family goes back several generations in Colorado. Her great-great-grandfather, Ole Halvorson, moved here from Minnesota and settled in the plains east of Denver near the tiny farming town of Genoa. He dug a hole in the ground for sheltera cellar that became the basement of the family farmhousebuilt a barn for the livestock, and began to turn the land over for planting. It wasnt long before he sent for his family. From those humble beginnings, four generations of Coloradans were born. The stories from those days on the farm are exciting. Genoa was a hopping place for a time. There were stores, a restaurant, a school, and dances on the weekends where my wifes grandfather, Lawrence, played piano or fiddle, whatever was needed. There were even baseball teams from towns all over eastern Colorado that traveled from ball field to ball field on warm summer evenings.

Today Genoa is a quieter place. The few kids who live here have quite a bus ride to school. Its a different picture than the usual tourist poster with a family skiing down freshly powdered slopes, peaks towering in the background, but it illustrates the great diversity you will find in Colorado, all of which is worth exploring.

My fascination with Colorado began long before I met my wife and her family. It began when I was a boy, listening to An Evening with John Denver on my parents record player. Although the album isnt all about Colorado per se, songs like Rocky Mountain High left indelible impressions about Colorado in general and the Rocky Mountains in particular. Growing up in the Midwest, trips that took us west of the Mississippi were rare, but greatly enjoyed. And although I found myself in the Rockies several times, Colorado was somewhat elusive. By the time I was in college, my only experience with the state was an ill-fated road trip that left me stranded for a week north of Dotsero. It wasnt until I moved to Denver to get married that I finally got a chance to appreciate all the state has to offer. Over the years, that appreciation has continued to grow.

Like all travel guides, this one divvies up the state into regions. Determining which cities and towns fit into each region is a bit tricky. Do you group towns by activityall the ski towns in this group, and all the rest over here? Or do you do it by terrainall the mountain towns in one group, the plains in another? You could divide them up by culture in a sense, with agricultural towns separated from industrial and college towns. Soon, however, all these classifications run into an inevitable obstacle. As you begin to examine the people, activities, and culture, you soon discover that each town, village, and hamlet should have its own region. They are all too different to be lumped together.

Consider the chapter Southwest Colorado. Durango has a distinct Old West feel. The historic downtown, the narrow-gauge railroad, and the annual Cowboy Gathering all feed into the towns vibe. Just an hour or so east is Pagosa Springs. Its a relaxed place, with easygoing people, and the entire town evokes a strong Southwest feellike a mini Santa Fe. Head north of Durango, and you have a touristy mountain town such as Silverton, and just over the mountain from there is Telluride, one of the states chicest ski resorts.