John Hill Burton - The Cairngorm Mountains

BY

JOHN HILL BURTON

AUTHOR OF THE BOOK-HUNTER, ETC.

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THE DREAMITS CAUSE AND CONSEQUENCEBEN NEVIS AND BEN MUICH DHUITHE STARTGLEN LUIGLEN DERRIE AND THE ANCIENT FORESTTHE TOP OF BEN MUICH DHUITHE MORAL INFLUENCE OF MOUNTAIN-TOPSTHE SUMMER SNOW-FIELDSTHE MOUNTAIN SPECTRETHE DESCENTTHE GREAT CATARACTLOCH AVONTHE STONE OF SHELTERA DINNER UNDER DIFFICULTIESBRAE RIACH AND CAIRN TOULSOURCES OF THE DEETHE GREAT FLOODS OF 29THE FREE AND THE ENSLAVED TOURISTA BIT OF ONES MIND ON GUIDES AND GUIDE-BOOKS.

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LOCH AVON,

STONE OF SHELTER,

I had a dream that was not all a dream.

IT befell me once, on a ramble otherwise fruitful of the pleasantest recollections, to have been afflicted with an oppressive dream, which, entirely eluding the reminiscences of several years, some of which had brought their own enjoyments, fixed itself down on a dreary period of school discipline, and recalled its most oppressive features all too vividly. There was nothing in the scenes and adventures of the day before, nor in those that might be expected to come with the morrow, to call up weary or oppressive visions. I had walked up between the limestone walls of the valley of Lauterbrunnen, and had seen the Jungfrau spread forth her vast robe of snow before the sun, as if in haughty defiance of his power. I had examined as closely as one who does not want a sousing could the great Staubbach, or Fall of Dust, called the highest cataract in Europe; but perhaps it should be called the largest shower-bath, since, as the traveller usually sees it, it is all dispersed into a heavy rain before it reaches the green meadows of Lauterbrunnen. After this, I had gone up the Wengern Alp as the night was falling, had watched the darkening, and had seen that, while the top of the Staubbach glittered in the setting sun, it passed downwards from pink to purple, deepening as it went, so that the ribbon of water lost itself in blackness, while the snows of the mountain, after bathing themselves in rosy light, sank also into darkness as the night walked upwards. Next day was for the Grindelwald glacier, the great cataract of the Reichenbach, and the long rocky stair that descends into many-fountained Meyringen. Surely there was nothing in all this to call up the dreariest recollections of bygone days; yet so it was, that although all previous nights on the same excursion had been mere blanks between the days enjoyments, and the beds rested on left no other recollection but the intensity of the sleep they bestowed, this night was crowded with the whole history of certain petty school persecutions. These visions kept entirely clear of the period of genial and attractive study fostered by a kindly scholar, and fixed themselves on an episode of school-life endured under a hard, irritable pedagogue, who made his own life and the lives of all who came about him miserable.

The phenomenon had its efficient cause. I had then, for the first time in a life of many rambles, put myself, along with two hapless companions, under the jurisdiction and authority of a guide. There was no help for it if we were to do what we projected. In the first place, it would have been madness otherwise to attempt to climb at night to the lone inn on the Wengern Alp. Then we were for glacier-work next day, and that could not be accomplished without help. I had once tried it alone, to my utter confusion and humiliation. I have a lively recollection, too, of the horror expressed by a friend authorised to put LL.D. after his name, who, seeing from the inn-window at the Grindelwald certain little black spots on the surface of the glacier, was told that these represented a body of guides endeavouring to extricate a Doctor of Laws who had stuck deep down in a crevasse, where he was then exemplifying the phenomena of congelation. Yes, it must be admitted as a humiliating fact, that a guide is just as necessary to the pedestrian on the glacier, as a pilot is to a vessel in a shoaly and rocky sea.

It was the suffering of spirit endured through some three days of the detested bondage of guidehood, that made me vow that some day when I had leisure for the task I would lift my testimony against the extension, beyond where it is absolutely unavoidable, of a system of voluntary slavery that has rooted itself among the hapless class of persons denominated Tourists. It is not alone in submission to the iron rule of the professional guide that this degrading phenomenon is developed. It exists in the mapping-out, in guide-books and otherwise, of certain routes which the tourist is to take, certain things which he is to see, and certain occurrencesgenerally arrant falsehoodsin which he is to believe. Having protested against a similar usurpation of authority as to the books which the collector should acquire and read, and the method in which he should read them, I offer these fugitive pages as an inducement to the rambler to shake himself free of guidance, by endeavouring to describe to him a specimen of the kind of scenes he may alight on if he take his feet in his hands, as an old saying goes, and independently step out of the range of the established tours. Comparison, however it may be denounced by one precept as odious, is by another recommended to us as a valuable medium of explanation. I therefore propose to set off, as dealers say, the merits of my favourite district, by comparing it with one well known to the touring world in Scotland, and forming, indeed, the most notable feature it contains.

It was on a bright, hot day of July, which threw the first gleam of sunshine across a long tract of soaking, foggy, dreary, hopeless weather, that I first ascended Ben Nevis. The act was unpremeditated. The wet and fog of weeks had entered into my soul; and I had resolved, in the spirit of indignant resignation, that I would not attempt the hill. Accordingly I was stalking lazily along General Wades road with a new-made acquaintance, who has become a distinguished geologistwe had left Fort William, and I thought there might be a probability of reaching Fort Augustus to dinnerwhen we were not ungratefully surprised to see the clouds tucking themselves up the side of the mountain in a peculiar manner, which gives the experienced wanderer of the hills the firm assurance of a glorious day. Soon afterwards the great mountain became visible from summit to base, and its round head and broad shoulders stood dark against the bright blue sky. A sagacious-looking old Highlander, who was passing, protested that the hill had never looked so hopeful during the whole summer: the temptation was irresistible; so we both turned our steps towards the right, and commenced the ascent.

It is one among the prevailing fallacies of the times, that to mount a Highland hill is a very difficult operation, and that one should hire a guide on the occasion. I am able, on the ground of long experience, to say that, if the proper day be chosen, and the right method adopted, the ascent of our grandest mountains is one of the simplest operations in all pedestrianism. True, if people take it in the way in which pigs run up all manner of streets, and go straight forward, looking neither to the right nor to the left, they will run their heads against natures stone walls, which are at least as formidable as mans. But let any one study the disposal of the ground, calculating the gradients and summit-levels as if he were a railway engineer for the time beinglet him observe where the moss lies deep, and precipices rise too steep to be scrambled overand he will be very obtuse indeed if he is not able to chalk out for himself precisely the best way to the top.