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The Riviera of the Corniche Road
Author:
Frederick Treves
Publisher:
Creative Media Partners, LLC
Genre:
Books / Art
Year:
2015
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THE RIVIERA OF THE

CORNICHE ROAD

A RIVIERA GARDEN.

The Riviera of the

Corniche Road

SIR FREDERICK TREVES, BART.

G.C.V.O., C.B., LL.D.

Serjeant-Surgeon to His Majesty the King; Author of The

Other Side of the Lantern, The Cradle of the Deep,

The Country of the Ring and the Book, Highways

and By-ways of Dorset, etc. etc.

Illustrated by 92 Photographs by the Author

CASSELL AND COMPANY, LTD

London, New York, Toronto and Melbourne

1921

Preface

This book deals with that part of the French Riviera which is commanded by the Great Corniche Roadthe part between Nice and Mentonetogether with such places as are within easy reach of the Road.

I am obliged to the proprietors of the Times for permission to reprint an article of mine contributed to that journal in March, 1920. It appears as Chapter XXXVII.

I am much indebted to Dr. Hagberg Wright, of the London Library, for invaluable help in the collecting of certain historical data.

FREDERICK TREVES.

Monte Carlo ,

Christmas, 1920

Contents
Chapter	Page
1.	Early Days in the Riviera
2.	The Corniche Road
3.	Nice: The Promenade des Anglais
4.	Nice: The Old Town
5.	The Siege of Nice
6.	Cimiez and St. Pons
7.	How the Convent of St. Pons came to an End
8.	Vence, the Defender of the Faith
9.	Vence, the Town
10.	Grasse
11.	A Prime Minister and Two Ladies of Grasse
12.	Cagnes and St. Paul du Var
13.	Cap Ferrat and St. Hospice
14.	The Story of Eze
15.	The Troubadours of Eze
16.	How Eze was Betrayed
17.	The Town that Cannot Forget
18.	The Harbour of Monaco
19.	The Rock of Monaco
20.	A Fateful Christmas Eve
21.	Charles the Seaman
22.	The Lucien Murder
23.	How the Spaniards were got rid of
24.	A Matter of Etiquette
25.	The Monte Carlo of the Novelist
26.	Monte Carlo
27.	Some Diversions of Monte Carlo
28.	An Old Roman Posting Town
29.	The Tower of Victory
30.	La Turbie of To-day
31.	The Convent of Laghet
32.	The City of Peter Pan
33.	The Legend of Roquebrune
34.	Some Memories of Roquebrune
35.	Gallows Hill
36.	Mentone
37.	The First Visitors to the Riviera
38.	Castillon
39.	Sospel
40.	Sospel and the Wild Boar
41.	Two Queer Old Towns
Index

List of Illustrations
Frontispiece
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THE RIVIERA OF THE

CORNICHE ROAD

I
EARLY DAYS IN THE RIVIERA

T HE early history of this brilliant country is very dim, as are its shores and uplands when viewed from an on-coming barque at the dawn of day. The historian-adventurer sailing into the past sees before him just such an indefinite country as opens up before the eye of the mariner. Hills and cragsalone unchangeablerise against the faint light in the sky. The sound of breakers on the beach alone can tell where the ocean ends and where the land begins; while the slopes, the valleys and the woods are lost in one blank impenetrable shadow.

As the daylight grows, or as our knowledge grows, the forms of men come into view, wild creatures armed with clubs and stones. They will be named Ligurians, just as the earlier folk of Britain were named Britons. Later on less uncouth men, furnished with weapons of bronze or iron, can be seen to land from boats or to be plodding along the shore as if they had journeyed far. They will be called Phnicians, Carthaginians or Phocans according to the leaning of the writer who deals with them. There may be bartering on the beach, there may be fighting or pantomimic love-making; but in the end those who are better armed take the place of the old dwellers, and the rough woman in her apron of skins walks off into the wood by the side of the man with the bronze knife and the beads.

There is little more than this to be seen through the haze of far distant time. The written history, such as it is, is thus part fiction, part surmise, for the very small element of truth is based upon such fragments of evidence as a few dry bones, a few implements, a bracelet, a defence work, a piece of pottery.

The Ligurians or aborigines formed themselves, for purposes of defence, into clans or tribes. They built fortified camps as places of refuge. Relics of these forts or castra remain, and very remarkable relics they are, for they show immense walls built of blocks of unworked stone that the modern wall builder may view with amazement. Nowhere are these camps found in better preservation than around Monte Carlo.

In the course of time into this savage country, marching in invincible columns, came the stolid, orderly legions of Rome. They subdued the hordes of hillmen, broke up their forts, and commemorated the victory by erecting a monument on the crest of La Turbie which stands there to this day. The Romans brought with them discipline and culture, and above all, peace. The natives, reassured, came down from their retreats among the heights and established themselves in the towns which were springing up by the edge of the sea. The Condamine of Monaco, for example, was inhabited during the first century of the present era, as is made manifest by the relics which have been found there.

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