Brandon Pullan - The Bold and Cold: A History of 25 Classic Climbs in the Canadian Rockies
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Over the past 100 years, climbers have been pushing standards in the Canadian Rockies. From long alpine ridges to steep north faces, the Rockies are synonymous with cutting-edge ascents. Peaks such as Robson, Chephren, Kitchener, the Twins and Alberta elude the many and reward the few. Many of the big faces were climbed between the 1960s and 1990, the golden age of alpinism in the Rockies. The men and women who first were part of that set high standards.
Future alpinists read old journals and guidebooks, hoping to experience what the alpine pioneers did. For most, the Rockies require a certain edge that comes with age, humiliation and failure. Perhaps the ones who drink the most whisky, dream of the biggest peaks and sleep with snowballs in their hands are the ones rewarded with the momentary triumph of coming to a draw with one of these mountains.
This is not a guidebook. Rather, it is a narrative history by the people who risked life and limb to establish these long, difficult and sometimes scary climbs.
Brandon Pullan: author's other books
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Journals
Beckey, Fred. New Climbs in the Bugaboos. Canadian Alpine Journal 17 (1970): 101103.
Blanchard, Barry. Infinite Patience. American Alpine Journal 77, no. 45 (2003): 272.
. The King and I. Canadian Alpine Journal 86 (2003): 3137.
. Polar Circus. Canadian Alpine Journal 71 (1988): 1112.
. Third Time Lucky. Canadian Alpine Journal 67 (1984): 2123.
Burton, Hugh. Warrior. Canadian Alpine Journal 57 (1974): 1920.
Cheesmond, Dave. Cheesmond/Dick. Canadian Alpine Journal 68 (1985): 3233.
. Mount Assiniboine East Face. Canadian Alpine Journal 66 (1983): 66.
. North Pillar, North Twin. American Alpine Journal 28, no. 60 (1986): 73.
. Spring on the Goodsirs. Canadian Alpine Journal 68 (1985): 6869.
Chouinard, Yvon. The North Wall of Edith Cavell. American Alpine Journal 13, no. 1 (1962): 58.
Davidson, Billy. CMC Wall. Canadian Alpine Journal 57 (1973): 47 48.
Davis, Dan. The North Face of Mount Robson. American Alpine Journal 14, no. 1 (1964): 6465.
Donahue, Topher. The Wild Cat Did Howl. Canadian Alpine Journal 79 (1996): 16.
Doyle, Kevin. Gimme Shelter. Polar Circus (1986): 2123.
Glidden, Jock. The North Face of Mount Alberta. Canadian Alpine Journal 56 (1973): 54.
Gran, Art. East Face Bugaboo Spire. Canadian Alpine Journal 44 (1961): 6972.
Jones, Chris. Mount Columbia from the North. American Alpine Journal 17, no. 2 (1971): 292295.
. Canadian Rockies North Faces. American Alpine Journal 16, no. 1 (1968): 5660.
Jones, Jim. The North Face of Mount Bryce. Canadian Alpine Journal 56 (1973): 2628.
Kallen, Urs. The East Face of Mount Patterson. Canadian Alpine Journal 57 (1974): 120.
Lauchlan, John. Slipstream. Canadian Alpine Journal 63 (1980): 48.
Locke, Charlie. Mount Temple North Face. Canadian Alpine Journal 50 (1967): 7173.
Logan, James. Mount Robsons Emperor Face. American Alpine Journal 22, no. 1 (1979): 122125.
Lowe, George. Mount Deltaform East Face. Canadian Alpine Journal 57 (1974): 31.
. Mount Geikie. American Alpine Journal 23, no. 55 (1981): 200.
. The North Face of the North Twin. American Alpine Journal 20, no. 1 (1975): 18.
Lowe, Jeff. Cold Dance Ice Review. American Alpine Journal 20, no. 2 (1976): 326.
McKeith, Bugs. Cirrus Mountain. Canadian Alpine Journal 59 (1976): 1416.
Moss, John. East Face of Babel. Canadian Alpine Journal 62 (1979): 5557.
Prezelj, Marko. The Twin. Canadian Alpine Journal 88 (2005): 916.
Robinson, Ward. All Along the Watchtower. Canadian Alpine Journal 66 (1983): 117.
Slawinski, Raphael. Dogleg Couloir. American Alpine Journal 50, no. 82 (2008): 190200.
. Mount Geikie. American Alpine Journal 43, no. 75 (2001): 270272.
. Obsession. Canadian Alpine Journal 88 (2005): 2025.
Statham, Grant. The Black Pyramid. Canadian Alpine Journal 78 (1995): 8285.
Vockeroth, Don. Howse Peak East Face. Canadian Alpine Journal 53 (1970): 5355.
Welsted, Ian. Dead. Canadian Alpine Journal 88 (2005): 1719.
Books
Atkinson, Chris, and Marc Piche. The Bugaboos . Squamish, BC: Elaho Publishing Corporation, 2003.
Blanchard, Barry. The Calling A Life Rocked by Mountains . Ventura, CA: Patagonia Books, 2014.
Chaundy-Smart, David. A Youth Wasted Climbing. Calgary: Rocky Mountain Books, 2015.
Dougherty, Sean. Selected Alpine Climbs in the Canadian Rockies . Calgary: Rocky Mountain Books, 1991.
Fairley, Bruce. The Canadian Mountaineering Anthology . Edmonton: Lone Pine Publishing, 1994.
Genereux, Andy. Yamnuska Rock . Surrey, BC: Rocky Mountain Books, 2006.
Kallen, Urs. Polar Circus I and II. Calgary: Summit Publishing, 1986 and 1987.
Perry, Chris, and Joe Josephson. Bow Valley Rock. Calgary: Rocky Mountain Books, 1999.
Salkeld, Audrey, ed. World Mountaineering. Vancouver: Raincoast Books, 1998.
Scott, Chic. Alpinism. Calgary: Apollo Productions, 1988.
. The History of the Calgary Mountain Club, Its Members and Their Activities, 1960 1986. Calgary, 1987.
. Pushing the Limits. Calgary: Rocky Mountain Books, 2002.
Steck, Allen, and Steve Roper. Fifty Classic Climbs of North America. San Francisco: Sierra Club Books, 1979.
Wood, Rob. Towards the Unknown Mountains. Vancouver: Ptarmigan Press Ltd, 1991.
Magazines
Blanchard, Barry. Mountain Profile: Mount Robson, Dragons in the Mist. Alpinist , October 2009, 34.
Lowe, George. The North Face of Alberta. Ascent , 1973, 30.
McKeith, Bugs. Grade Six Ice in the Canadian Rockies. Mountain, no. 41, 1973, 16.
Online Sources
Blanchard, Barry. North Pillar of North Twin, First Ascent, 1985. Barry Blanchard (blog), 2012, accessed April 10, 2013. barryblanchard.ca/northtwin.
Bullock, Nick. Climbing the House/Anderson on the North Face of Mount Alberta. Great Escape
(blog), October 13, 2014, accessed December 15, 2014. nickbullock-climber.co.uk/2014/10/03/it-takes-a-big-day-to-weigh-a-ton-climbing-the-houseanderson-on-mt-alberta-nf.
Canadian Rockies Triptychs. Super Topo, 2014, accessed November 3, 2014. supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2468943/canadian-rockies-triptychs.
Haley, Colin. Minivan Alpinism. Colin Haley (blog), October 21, 2014, accessed November 3, 2014. colinhaley.com/minivan-alpinism-in-canada.
John Hudson A Lost Great One. Super Topo , 2010, accessed February 25, 2013. supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1342739.
Kennedy, Hayden. Getting Satisfaction on the North Face of North Twin. The Cleanest Line , June 2011, accessed April 10, 2012. thecleanestline.com/2011/06/getting-satisfaction-on-the-north-face-of-north-twin.html.
Kruk, Jason. Canadian Rockies. Alpine Artist , 2014, accessed October 15, 2014. alpineartist.ca/stories/canadian-rockies.
Mills, Jay. Mount Alberta North Face. Canadian Rockies Alpine Guide (blog), August 13, 2009, accessed March 10, 2010. cdnalpine.blogspot.ca/2009/08/mt-alberta-north-face-vi-510-a0.html.
. Polar Circus and Murchison Falls Solo-Link Up. Canadian Rockies Alpine Guide (blog), January 22, 2010, accessed February 12, 2011. cdnalpine.blogspot.ca/2010/01/polar-circus-murchison-falls-solo.html.
Mt Alberta, North Face: First Six Ascents. Super Topo, 2014, accessed September 2, 2014. supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2506731/Mt-Alberta-North-Face-First-Six-Ascents.
Mt Kitchener, Grand Central Couloir: All Comers Welcome. Super Topo , 2014, accessed August 20, 2014. supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2546798/Mt-Kitchener-Grand-Central-Couloir-All-Comers-Welcome.
Mt Robson, Emperor Face: All Known Ascents. Super Topo , 2014, accessed August 25, 2014. supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2542526/Mt-Robson-Emperor-Face-All-Known-Ascents.
North Twin-North Face G. Lowe & C. Jones Ascent 75 76. Super Topo , 20092015, accessed March 20, 2015. http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/890216/North-Twin-North-Face-G-Lowe-C-Jones-Ascent-75-76.
Slawinski, Raphael. Faux Alpinism. Raphael Slawinski (blog), December 9, 2010, accessed September 20, 2011. http://raphaelslawinski.blogspot.ca/2010/12/faux-alpinism.html.
. Infinite Patience. Raphael Slawinski (blog), October 12, 2012, accessed November 1, 2012. raphaelslawinski.blogspot.ca/2012/10/infinite-patience.html.
Walsh, Jon. Bugaboos 2011 First Ascents, First Free Ascents, Obscure Repeats, Good Times. Alpine Style, September 4, 2004, accessed February 9, 2013. alpinestyle.ca/2011/09/05/bugaboos_2011_fisrt_ascents_first_free_ascents_obscure_repeats_good_times.
. Mount Alberta North Face. Alpine Style , September 22, 2007, accessed January 8, 2008. alpinestyle.ca/2007/09/22/mt_alberta_north_face.
. Mount Robson Trip Report. Alpine Style , June 6, 2012, accessed April 22, 2013. alpinestyle.ca/2012/06/06/mt_robson_trip_report.
. The North Pillar. Alpine Style , September 16, 2013, accessed September 18, 2013. alpinestyle.ca/2013/09/16/the_north_pillar.
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