Loehr - Demystifying bra fitting and construction
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Custom bras are wonderful sewing projects. They are easy to make, fit perfectly, and can be worn every day. But until now, the techniques of custom bra making have been difficult to access.
Demystifying Bra Fitting and Construction reveals the secrets of bra couturiers, teaching you what you have always wanted to know about fitting and sewing your own bras. Professional custom bra maker Norma Loehr breaks down the fitting and construction process into simple, easy to follow steps so you can get great results on your bra making projects. With easy-to-follow instructions, color photos, and a guide to sourcing materials, this book has everything you need to make your own professional looking bras in no time at all.
Whether you are a home sewer or an aspiring lingerie designer, this book is for you!
Not only does custom bra maker Norma Loehr sew wonderfully, shes smart - so her well thought out and beautifully presented work on bra making has resulted in a book that inspires and educates. Susan Khalje, Author, Bridal Couture and Linen and Cotton and Contributing Editor for Threads Magazine
Ive had the privilege of testing Normas book before its release, and its an absolute must buy for anyone interested in sewing their own bras (seriously, theres one gem of bridge fitting advice in there alone thats worth the purchase price!). Melissa Fehr, Fehrtrade.com
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Demystifying BraFitting and Construction
By Norma Loehr
Copyright 2013 Orange Lingerie LLC
All Rights Reserved
To my husband for hisunwavering support
Norma Loehr spent her youth as an avid seamstress anddesigner, but put aside her sewing practice to focus on a career in finance.When she could not locate a luxury custom bra making service in North America,Norma left her position at a major Wall Street firm in New York to focus on thestudy and practice of custom bra making. Norma founded Orange Lingerie which isnow based in Chicago.
You can read more about Norma and see her work atorange-lingerie.com.
Whenever I tell someone I am a bra maker the reaction istypically an equal mix of curiosity and befuddlement. I dont know where peoplethink bras come from but clearly few have considered the possibility ofactually making them. I regularly meet women who are in the midst of creatingcouture garments who are frankly intimidated to go near a bra making project.
Initially I felt the same way. When I started making brasseveral years ago I aggressively searched for and collected everything I couldfind on the topic. I found very little. Making bras seemed to be some sort ofclosely guarded black art. Bra makers seem to jealously protect their secretsalmost as if it fell into the wrong hands it would be used for evil. I dontthink that bra making is like Harry Potter magic or The Force and that is why Iwrote this book.
It took extended study with a bra making pro and then someserious time practicing on friends and family before I had achieved mastery ofthe craft and accepted custom commissions from clients. In the end, I learnedthe most and continue to learn the most - by doing it, repeatedly.
I believe that every woman who sews should be making her ownbras. What we wear underneath our clothing is the foundation for all the otherlovely garments we spend hours carefully crafting. All in, a bra will take justa few hours to make and it is something you most certainly will wear. This bookwill tell you exactly how fit and construct your own professional looking bra.
My goal is to give seamstresses the necessary knowledge andconfidence to sew their own bras by demystifying fitting and the constructiontechniques to get professional looking results.
Rather than attempt to cover the seemingly limitlessvariations of bra styles and fabrication techniques, I focus on the most commonbra making techniques that I use in my workroom every day to get consistentlybeautiful results.
My techniques are independent of a specific bra pattern.While I suggest what to look for when selecting a bra pattern, this book doesnot provide one nor are there instructions for drafting and grading brapatterns. You are free to work with any pattern you wish or draft your own.
No book on bra making would be complete without addressingfitting. Because I have to fit a wide variety of body types and I only havelimited scheduled time with my clients, I developed a systematic fittingprocess to quickly achieve a fitted toile (a.k.a. muslin). I provideinstructions how to work through this process and how to solve the most commonfitting challenges you will encounter.
Finally, I assume that you know how to sew and have thelevel of experience where you know how to make pattern alterations and can sewa collared button down shirt on your own. If you are a beginner, there isnothing stopping you from using this book to make a bra but you may need a goodsewing fundamentals book to help you through. I have a list of suggested sewingreference books at http://www.orange-lingerie.com/resources.
If there are bra making topics not covered in this book thatyou want to learn about, send me an email at info@orange-lingerie.com. Enoughinquires and I will write a blog post in response or perhaps even another book!
Need some reasons to sew your own bras? How about ten ofthem?
1. It is actually cheaper than buying a bra.
Surprise! Once you have the pattern, all the materials -fabric, notions and trims - can cost as little as $15. Of course you can alsospend a lot more too! Regardless of what you spend on materials, the quality ofthe bra you make yourself will far surpass the one from the store.
2. It is faster and more efficient than shopping for a bra.
With experience, it will only take a few hours from tracingthe pattern to wearing the completed bra. Compare this to the time it takes youto get to the store, park, find the bras you like, try them on, pay, etc. Evenfinding bras online can take some serious time, especially once you factor inthe returns/exchanges as you try to find the ones that fit.
3. You get what exactly you want.
You get to choose the color, fabric, trim, etc. You could,if you were so inclined, make a bra for each outfit. That plunging top? Thatracer back tank? That sheer blouse? No problem. You have a bra for that.
4. You get a bra that fits.
With no real size standardization for ready-to-wear bras,your best hope for a bra that fits is to make your own (or have one made foryou!). Plus, once you have a pattern that fits, you can replicate it time andtime again without worrying about the bra being discontinued, sold out or nolonger available. Since bras must be regularly replaced, this is a big deal.
5. It will be easier to fit the other garments you aresewing.
You will find fewer alterations are necessary to the bodiceof your garment when your bust is contained and is positioned correctly on yourbody by a bra that fits you properly.
6. You will become a better seamstress.
There are plenty of construction techniques in a bra making projectto help you refine your skills. We can all benefit from practicing precision seaming and parallel lines of topstitching. The best part is that noone else but you (well almost no one!) will see any of those microscopic sewingimperfections. So you will wear the garment.
7. You can regain your sewing momentum.
There is nothing like a high utility project that can becompleted in a few hours to get you back into sewing. Bras are a perfect sewingjumpstart when you are stalled on other more complicated projects.
8. You can replicate your favorite bra.
We have all been there. You love it, it fits, but it must beretired. You search and cannot find one anywhere. Copy it. You can also improveon the fit in the duplication process.
9. Youve just found a way to use your sewing machinesembroidery and embellishment features.
All those decorative stitches that you have not used sinceyou bought your machine can be put to work. Astonishingly with todaysembroidery enabled machines you can even make your own lace.
10. You become a better judge of quality materials andcraftsmanship and know when to pay for it.
There you have it! Ten great reasons to sew your own bras.Time to get sewing!
Before we talk about making bras, I want to establish acommon vocabulary for talking about the different parts of a bra. Its not thatwe dont know what a bra is, it is that most of us have never really examined abra in order to understand what they are made of and how they work. While someof the parts of the bra and their function are obvious (the cups contain thebreasts) others are not (the band supports the cups, not the straps). Todemystify the bra itself, what follows is an overview of its components andtheir respective functions.
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