Macdonald Steven C. - Mountaineering first aid: a guide to accident response and first aid care

A classic text on first aid in the mountains, updated with the latest information on treating backcountry injuries.

Bend Bulletin

Anyone who spends time outdoors will want this book as it provides the latest information on assessing and treating conditions you may encounter in the wild.

Connecticut Post

Should be part of your outdoor library, read and re-read on a regular basis.

Outside Bozeman

Mountaineering First Aid guides you through step-by-step procedures that would give most the willies, but in a crisis, would mean the difference between life and death... and it does so in a clear, no-nonsense, no-medical-jargon style that emphasizes the most important issues to consider.

(Asheville, NC) Mountain Xpress

Dont go into the woods without this book.

Sweat magazine

Packs a wealth of practical information into a small volume.

The Cascadian

Designed to fit into any kit bag.

Pittsburgh Tribune-Review

Contains enough common sense safety information to benefit anyone who spends time in the outdoors.

Willoughby (OH) News-Herald

The real value of this book is how these principles, concepts, and techniques are presented; that is in a clear, concise, logical, and organized manner that is easy to understand... Anyone who ventures into the backcountry would benefit from reading this book.

TrailWalker

A good start for people who want to learn about backcountry first aid.

Arizona Daily Sun

A Guide to
Accident Response
and First Aid Care

FIFTH EDITION

Jan D. Carline
Martha J. Lentz
Steven C. Macdonald

1001 SW Klickitat Way, Suite 201, Seattle, WA 98134

1972, 1975, 1985, 1990, 1996, 2004 by The Mountaineers Books

All rights reserved

First edition, 1972. Second edition, 1975. Third edition, 1985; revised 1990. Fourth edition, 1996. Fifth edition: first printing 2004, second printing 2005, third printing 2006, fourth printing 2006, fifth printing 2007, sixth printing 2007, seventh printing 2008, eighth printing 2008, ninth printing 2009, tenth printing 2009

No part of this book may be reproduced in any form, or by any electronic, mechanical, or other means, without permission in writing from the publisher.

Distributed in the United Kingdom by Cordee, www.cordee.uk .

Manufactured in Canada

Project Editor: Margaret Sullivan
Copyeditor: Paula Thurman
Cover and Book Design: The Mountaineers Books
Layout: Mayumi Thompson
Illustrator: Bob Cram and Hans Neuhart/Electronic Illustrators Group

Cover photograph Nancy Duncan-Cashman

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Carline, Jan D.

Mountaineering first aid : a guide to accident response and first aid care / Jan D. Carline, Martha J. Lentz, Steven C. Macdonald. 5th ed.

p. cm.

Includes bibliographical references and index.

ISBN 0-89886-878-5 (pbk.)

1. Mountaineering injuries. 2. First aid in illness and injury. I. Lentz, Martha J. II. Macdonald, Steven C. III. Title.

RC88.9.M6C37 2004

616.02'52'088796522dc22

2004012711

Printed on recycled paper

ISBN: 978-0-89886-878-4
ISBN(ebook): 978-1-59485-133-9

Clint Kelley was a chairman of The Mountaineers First Aid Committee, an American Red Cross instructor trainer, and an important influence in the Mountaineering Oriented First Aid Program. Of all his many activities in mountaineering and conservation, he may have made his greatest contribution to the first aid program. Clint was a mentor to a whole generation of instructors, shaping their attitudes and approaches to first aid practice. Above all, he was a gentle and joyful instructor. This book is dedicated to the memory of Clint Kelley: leader, instructor, and good friend.

The relationship between The Mountaineers and the American Red Cross serving King and Kitsap Counties embodied in this book reaches back to 1968. At that time, these two organizations saw the need for a first aid course designed to address emergencies when medical help is not readily available. For those enjoying the mountains and wilderness, it was also important to provide training on pre-trip preparation and in-the-field, immediate first aid response.

Mountaineering Oriented First Aid (MOFA) training starts with the American Red Cross First Aid/CPR/AED course and uses the time-honored Red Cross approach of learning by doing. Expanding upon this basic curriculum, The Mountaineers have added a wealth of information and skills focused on providing care when supplies are limited to what is in your backpack or available in the natural environment. The Mountaineers have used this curriculum to train hundreds of leaders and thousands of outdoors enthusiasts since the program began. They are committed to making sure that those who enjoy our wonderful wilderness areas are prepared for emergencies.

With the publication of this edition we celebrate thirty-six years of successful partnership between our two organizations. Both The Mountaineers and the American Red Cross endorse quality training and place a very high value on preparedness. The Mountaineering Oriented First Aid Course provides outstanding training to anyone who wants to enjoy the out-of-doors and be prepared to handle emergencies. In addition, this book is an excellent companion to add to the equipment and supplies in your backpack.

Dotty Klyce
Director, Health and Safety Services
American Red Cross Serving King and Kitsap Counties

This book continues the basic philosophy of the first editions of Mountaineering First Aid, by Dick Mitchell. In the early 1970s, Dick and a group of Seattle Mountaineers developed the Mountaineering Oriented First Aid (MOFA) Program to fit the needs of climbers with first aid adapted to the mountaineering environment. The local chapter of the American Red Cross has provided invaluable support to MOFA from its inception. More than 500 students complete the MOFA program each year in King County. The support of our instructors, the Seattle Mountaineers, and the American Red Cross Chapter serving King and Kitsap Counties make this program possible.

The third edition of Mountaineering First Aid was the result of an equal collaboration of its three authors, and the order of names on the cover represented a draw of a straw. I was the author of the fourth and fifth edition revisions. The contributions of Marty Lentz and Steve Macdonald to the third edition are a major portion of this book. Other MOFA instructors have contributed to this work, among them are Gordon Pfister, Jeff Lundt, Scott Hansen, Jon Shields, Dave Shema, Emilio Marasco, Sandy Donnelly, and Karl Brackmann. Students requests for clarifications and new information have also shaped this book. The contributions of past authors and reviewers still exist under the new icing. While many individuals contributed their ideas and suggestions, any errors are attributable only to myself.