Recorded Books Inc. - The Edible Flower Garden

appendix A planting and maintenance

C overed in this section are the basics of soil preparation, starting seeds, transplanting, fertilizing, composting, mulching, watering and irrigation, and maintaining most annual, perennial, and woody, edible flowering plants.

Edible flowers are produced by many types of plants. Some, like nasturtiums and calendulas, are annuals. Others, like daylilies, chrysanthemums, dianthus, and many of the flowering herbs, are perennials and hence stay in the garden for a number of years. There are also the "woody" plants, such as apple trees, redbuds, and citrus trees, which might live as long as 100 years. And then there are the roses, which while usually classified as a woody shrub, I put in a category by themselves, as they are such a quirky lot. Each type of plant needs its own planning and planting treatment, and maintenance techniques differ too. A number of these plants, like the citrus and pineapple guava, are quite tender; although they can be grown in a greenhouse, only planting them in the ground in a suitable climate is addressed here, since indoor growing is a science of its own and beyond the scope of this book. The seeds for some annual and perennial edible flowers may need to be started indoors weeks before setting them out in the garden. Refer to "Starting Seeds" for guidelines on starting your seeds early.

Trees and ShrubsThe Woody Plants

Planting

This section covers pineapple guava, elder-berry, redbud, lilac, lemon, orange, and apple trees. Since these plantings are permanent, you need to give a lot of thought to where you plant them. Will they get too large for the location? Is the soil in the area well drained? Is there enough sunlight in the chosen spot? Most woody plants need fast-draining soil and at least six hours of midday sun. Even though homeowners want to plant them in a lawn, they never grow very well surrounded by grass: they must compete for nutrients and water, are damaged by mowers and trimmers, and, if the lawn needs constant irrigation, they eventually develop a number of diseases.

Once you've decided on where to put your tree or shrub, it's time to plant. Woody plants are best planted in the spring when they are most available in nurseries and when they will have a long season to get established before winter cold sets in. Apple trees are available bare root, that is, when they are dormant and the roots are wrapped for protection, but without soil, or in containers. Other trees and shrubs are usually sold only in five-gallon containers.

To prepare the soil for your tree or shrub, dig a hole that is double the width of the root ball and six inches deeper. Mix in a cup or so of bonemeal around the bottom and rough up the sides of the hole with a spade or digging fork. Mix in half a wheelbarrowful of organic matter, but only if the soil is light and sandy. (Contrary to past recommendations to amend the planting hole in heavy soils with copious amounts of organic matter, we now know that the roots of woody plants seldom leave amended fluffy soil to venture out into dense native soils. Instead, they remain confined to the planting hole. When the soil is not ammended, the roots extend far into the parent soil.) Examine the root ball. Use a knife or sharp spade to cut through any thick mat of roots on the sides and bottom. Shovel some of the soil back in the hole and place the tree or shrub in the hole an inch or so higher than it was in the container. Straighten the roots out onto the backfill in the hole. Shovel the soil back in the hole and gently tamp the soil in place with your foot. Build up a small watering basin and water the plant in well by filling the basin full of water three or four times. Apply a mulch of organic matter at least three inches deep and at least six inches away from the trunk, to prevent the crown of the tree (where the bark meets the roots) from staying moist and possibly rotting. Keep the newly planted tree fairly moist for the first month and then start to taper off with the watering. In rainy climates water the tree if it rains less than once a week. In arid climates water deeply with at least one inch of water a week in hot weather. Drip irrigation is ideal for this purpose.

The USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map is most useful when you are growing perennial plants because it indicates how cold a given area will be during an average winter. In order to use the map, locate your geographical area and consult the color code that indicates which zone you are in. When you select plants for your garden, choose ones that grow in your zone. Remember, however, that the zone only indicates how cold your garden will get, but there are many other factors that affect the health of your plants, namely summer highs and your area's soil type.