Damian Harper - London Travel Guide
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- Book:London Travel Guide
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- Year:2012
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One of the worlds most visited cities, London has something for everyone: from history to culture, art to architecture.
London is immersed in history. Not so much that its precious, but theres sufficient antiquity and historic splendour (Tower of London, Westminster Abbey, Hampton Court) to blow you away. Londons buildings are eye-catching milestones in the citys unique and compelling biography. Theres more than enough funky innovation (the Shard, the Aquatics Centre, the Gherkin) to put a crackle in the air, but it never drowns out Londons well-preserved, centuries-old narrative. Architectural grandeur rises up all around you in the West End, ancient remains dot the City and charming pubs punctuate the Thames riverside. Take your pick.
A tireless innovator of art and culture, Londons a city of ideas and the imagination. British people are fiercely independent thinkers (and critics) so Londons creative milieu is naturally streaked with leftfield attitude, from theatrical innovation to contemporary art, pioneering music, writing and design. And thats even truer in these testing recessionary times. The artistic bar has been nudged higher, the audience is more demanding and the Olympic Games are limbering up, so London is moving heaven and earth to entertain. Revel in the choice.
English may be the national tongue, but over 300 languages shape Londons linguistic soundscape. These languages also represent cultures that season the culinary aromas on Londons streets, the clothing you glimpse and the music you hear. It can seem like the whole world has come to town. Museums, such as the British Museum and the Victoria & Albert Museum, have collections as diverse as they are magnificent, while flavours at markets such as Borough and Exmouth range across the gourmet spectrum. Londons diverse cultural dynamism makes it quite possibly the worlds most international city, while being somehow intrinsically British.
London is as much about high-density, sight-packed exploration (the West End, South Bank, the City) and urban dynamism as it is about wide-open spaces and leafy escapes. Central London is where you will find all the major museums, galleries and most iconic sights, but escape to Hampstead Heath or Greenwich Park to flee the crowds and put the citys greener hues into gorgeous perspective. Or venture even further out to Kew Gardens, Richmond or Hampton Court Palace for effortlessly good-looking panoramas of riverside London.
By Damian Harper
Growing up in Notting Hill was fantastic but what truly made me adore London was living all around it. Many Londoners are defiantly local, but to me its not all about one area. Its the pumping vitality that animates one part of the city and the leafy tranquillity of others. Much of Londons a whole mosaic of local histories and teasing them apart linguistically is magic. Take any name and see what you unearth: Aldwych (Auld-Wych meaning the Old Settlement) is slap-bang in the centre of town and unsurprisingly the innocuous Holywell Lane in Shoreditch once bubbled over with sacred waters, while Chiswick was the place to go for cheese.
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This superlative collection of (largely pre-modern) art at the heart of London is one of the worlds largest and a roll-call of some of the worlds most outstanding artistic compositions. With highlights including work from Leonardo Da Vinci, Michelangelo, Gainsborough, Constable, Turner, Monet, Renoir and Van Gogh, its a bravura performance and one not to be missed. On-site restaurants and cafes are also exceptional, rounding out a terrific experience and putting the icing on an already eye-catching cake.
The West End
With five million visitors trooping through its doors annually, the British Museum in Bloomsbury is Londons most popular tourist attraction. A vast and hallowed collection of artefacts, art and age-old antiquity, you could spend a lifetime here and still make daily discoveries (admission is free, so you could just do that, if so inclined). Otherwise join everyone else on the highlights tours (or eyeOpener tours) for a prcis of the museums treasures.
The West End
The favourite of Londoners (and, quite possibly, the world), this contemporary art collection enjoys a triumphant position right on the River Thames. Housed in the former Bankside Power Station, the Tate Modern is a vigorous statement of modernity, architectural renewal and accessibility. The permanent collection is free, but make sure you enter down the ramp into the Turbine Hall, where the gallerys standout temporary exhibitions push the conceptual envelope and satisfy more cerebral art-hunters.
The South Bank
Few parts of the UK are as steeped in history or as impregnated with legend and superstition, as the titanic stonework of this fabulous fortress. A strong candidate for Londons Top Sight, not only is the tower an architectural odyssey but theres also a diamond almost as big as the Ritz, free tours from its magnificently attired beefeaters, a dazzling array of armour and weaponry and a palpable sense of ancient history at every turn. Because there is simply so much to see, its well worth getting here early as you will need at least half a day of exploration (probably more). Its definitely worth tagging along with one of the Yeoman Warders (beefeaters) on their fascinating and eye-opening tours.
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