Damian Harper - Beijing
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Damian first arrived in Bijng in 1992 via a degree in Chinese from Londons School of Oriental African Studies. Since then he has shacked up in a shyun (courtyard house), worked as a Beijing Radio presenter, lived in Shnghi, wrestled with the Cantonese dialect in Hong Kong, chewed the fat with Shaolin monks and knocked back bags of beer in Qngdo. Married to an outstanding Shndng lass, Damian has been authoring for Lonely Planet for over 12 years, exploring China with a constant swarm of deadlines (Beijing, China, Chinas Southwest, Shanghai, Hong Kong, Lonely Planets Best in Travel) in pursuit.
I like to rise early to join the shuffling queue for yutio (deep-fried dough stick) to chew en route to practising several forms of tijqun (taichi) in the park. The pulse-quickening Yang-style long form (108 moves) takes around 20 minutes to perform. For fresh coffee afterwards, Ill make my way to Nanluogu Xiang after picking up a copy of (Reference News), one of the few Chinese-language newspapers worth reading. Fortified by caffeine Ill disappear into the citys htng (alleyways), which is the best way to rummage through Bijngs past. Ill always find something extraordinary buried away here whether Im deliberately exploring or just idly meandering. Ill certainly go temple hunting in the htng, as some temples such as Huguo Temple in Xchng district are well disguised, their disparate halls divided up among live-in residents or converted for other functions. Others, such as Zhihua Temple () at twilight is a magical spot to stop if Ive time, and Ill always visit the Forbidden City beforehand you can never explore the palace enough. Ill have dinner with friends in the Huhi area before sinking late-night drinks in Nanluogu Xiang again and chatting till the witching hour and beyond.
David made his first trip to China in 1988, when both Westerners and cars were in short supply. After graduating with a law degree from University College London, he abandoned the idea of becoming a barrister for a career as a freelance journalist. That took him from London to LA for five years, where he wrote for a variety of newspapers and magazines. Back in London, David began to be intrigued by the worlds increasing focus on China. Returning there for the first time in 14 years, he found a country that had changed beyond almost all recognition. He moved to Bijng in early 2005, where he contributes to the Sunday Telegraph and the SouthChinaMorningPost. He co-wrote the previous editions of Beijing and Shanghai for Lonely Planet, as well as working on the last edition of the China guide.
Why is our travel information the best in the world? Its simple: our authors are passionate, dedicated travellers. They dont take freebies in exchange for positive coverage so you can be sure the advice youre given is impartial. They travel widely to all the popular spots, and off the beaten track. They dont research using just the internet or phone. They discover new places not included in any other guidebook. They personally visit thousands of hotels, restaurants, palaces, trails, galleries, temples and more. They speak with dozens of locals every day to make sure you get the kind of insider knowledge only a local could tell you. They take pride in getting all the details right, and in telling it how it is. Think you can do it? Find out how at lonelyplanet.com.
From backpacking expeditions to luxury stopovers and every point in between, Bijng caters to each and every budget. First youll need a visa (). We have put a considerable amount of written Chinese in this book. When in doubt, showing the Chinese characters to local passers-by is far more immediate than trying to pronounce Chinese (unless you can speak the language). Try to allow time to explore China outside Bijng; engineering an itinerary is an excellent idea. If you plan on visiting Tibet, check on any travel restrictions. For essentials, you should be able to find most of what you need in Bijng, but its advisable to take along any prescription medicines and cannot-live-without reading material. Last but not least, Bijng is often surprising and endlessly fascinating so dont forget to pack a sense of adventure!
Climate is what you expect; weather is what you get.
Robert A Heinlein
Climate-wise, autumn (September and October) is Bijngs finest, but shortest, season. Skies are blue, the weather is cooling down and the mad summer rush has exhausted itself, so fewer visitors are in town. Locals muse that this is the season of tingo qshung, literally high skies and the air is fresh, with trademark blue skies and crisp air. Arid spring (March to April/May) can be pleasant, apart from the scouring sandstorms (see the Dust Devil ).
Avoid visiting the capital during the first week of October and the first three days of May (), as the entire nation is on holiday rooms are in short (and expensive) supply and attractions are swamped. Be warned that the Spring Festival (below) is Chinas biggest holiday and transport outside Bijng can be hellish; many people take a week off work. But it can also be a great time to see the Chinese celebrating with all stops out be sure to book your room in advance.
China follows both the yngl (Gregorian) and the ynl (lunar) calendars. Traditional Chinese festivals are calculated according to the lunar calendar and fall on different days each year according to the Gregorian calendar. The three huge holiday periods begin with the Spring Festival, on 1 May and 1 October, respectively.
Yundn
The Spring Festival is Chinas big New Years bash, but the Western New Year is also wildly celebrated throughout town.
Chn Ji
As big in China as Christmas in the West, the family-oriented Spring Festival celebrates the arrival of the new lunar New Year. The festival commences on the first day of the first month in the lunar calendar, which usually falls sometime between late January and mid-February, ushering in one of the 12 animals of the Chinese zodiac. The ).
Qngrn Ji
Chinas traditional festival for lovers (the seventh day of the seventh lunar month) simply doesnt attract the same kind of dewy-eyed fascination. Jewellery stores are busy with white-collar suits blowing a months salary on rings, while flower shops do a roaring trade in roses (in bunches of eleven, symbolising loyalty). If eating out, book early or make do with a takeaway. With fortuitous synchronicity, Valentines Day in 2010 exactly coincides with the first day of the Spring Festival (so book that table
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